David Lewis
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Yes. Sintered NdFeB has the highest energy density.
David Lewis said:Yes. Sintered NdFeB has the highest energy density.
NascentOxygen said:We don't know how strong a magnet is desired. All we know is that it should have almost no detectable "external" field. So does it really matter how strong it is? Perhaps a weaker magnet may be preferable, as this would minimize the detectable exterior field.
I'm not convinced that heating a neodymium magnet above its Curie temperature will scramble the domains so completely that when cooled it will then show no trace of that former orientation. The way I read this, merely losing merely 99.9% of a neodymium magnet's original field will not be enough loss here!
Fortunately, with low material costs there is no barrier to experimentation.
Part Toon said:I found a wikipedia page containing a list of ferromagnetic materials...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Ferromagnetic_materials
Would any of these work in the manner of heating, slowly cooling, and re-magnetizing?
Please share your thoughts![]()
anorlunda said:@OmCheeto mentioned a flat washer. Could you permanently magnetized one with a coil, then remove the coil?
Are you wanting to make sure it's the right color, asPart Toon said:...I'd prefer it'd be some sort of store that I can examine the magnet in person before purchase...
It's quite possible, though very improbable, that every flat washer at the corner hardware store, is already magnetized, in the manner in which you are seeking.I think this is why everyone is still mostly confused about what you are doing, as aside from old fashioned computer memory, your magnet would have no function.
OmCheeto said:It's quite possible, though very improbable, that every flat washer at the corner hardware store, is already magnetized, in the manner in which you are seeking.

It's not a good idea, to encourage me.anorlunda said:That's brilliant. So true, yet so counter-intuitive.![]()
I have 338 bar magnets.rootone said:How about you could obtain a lot of standard bar magnets, say 120 or so of them, then arrange them end-on-end into a circle.
OmCheeto said:And even then, I don't think it will work, as even when they are all in a straight line, there is detectable flux leakage between each magnet. Not much, but detectable.
Charles Link said:As I asked in post #39, are you planning on having a couple of loops of wire to probe these magnets? (You would need insulated wire). Connecting it to an oscilloscope, you should be able to observe a voltage change (=Faraday EMF)in the wire loops as the iron becomes magnetized or demagnetized.
An oscilloscope can come in very handy for such research. It might be worthwhile to consider borrowing one or renting one.Part Toon said:I probably would not, for I do not have an oscilloscope :P
Charles Link said:An oscilloscope can come in very handy for such research. It might be worthwhile to consider borrowing one or renting one.
Part Toon said:I was thinking (as for the material) iron oxide. Remember this post that I shared a while ago?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Green-Iron-74mm-Outside-Diameter-Power-Ferrite-Toroid-Core-T73-/310839060200?hash=item485f73a6e8:g:bOcAAOSwDNdVlYhN#rpdCntId
I'm sure that it's not the correct magnet that I need, but ferrite (iron oxide) as I have heard from wikipedia, has a relativily low curie temperature of about 850 degrees F. So I can remove the (most likely rubberized) coating, heat it up in a furnace that I have at the farm, and then I can do the coily thing, pump a lot'o electricity into the coil going around the magnet, and then presto! I got my mystery magnet that I'm looking for
If there's anything wrong with my potential plan (like some sort of radiation coming from the ferrite when heated, or the coils, or something else), please tell me :)
A PF account won't help if you disregard whatever you don't want to hear.Part Toon said:I decided to make a PF account to see if it would help, so far it has![]()
NascentOxygen said:A PF account won't help if you disregard whatever you don't want to hear.
Something sold as a ferrite core is for an electromagnet, it's made of material which does not retain magnetism. It's the wrong type of ferrite for a permanent magnet.
I have not tried heating a ferrite core, but it's just a compressed powder so I'd expect it may well crumble to a powder if heated in a furnace. But I'd welcome being proved wrong.
I think your best course is to get a steel band or washer from a wreckers or a repair shop and use it. Test with a compass needle to see whether it has any measurable unwanted field, and if not, go ahead and magnetize it how you want using a solenoid.
While soundly based on theory, this is somewhat impractical‡ here. The comparison is relatively subtle, and OP is not using a repetitive signal.Charles Link said:As I asked in post #39, are you planning on having a couple of loops of wire to probe these magnets? (You would need insulated wire). Connecting it to an oscilloscope, you should be able to observe a voltage change (=Faraday EMF)in the wire loops as the iron becomes magnetized or demagnetized. If the voltage you see is just from the changing magnetic field from the magnetizing wire, it would be considerably less. If the iron becomes magnetized, it should show an appreciable voltage (perhaps 50 mV depending upon the number of loops you use) as the iron becomes magnetized.
NascentOxygen said:While soundly based on theory, this is somewhat impractical‡ here. The comparison is relatively subtle, and OP is not using a repetitive signal.
‡ though it would make for a fascinating lab demonstration!
If there is a need to demonstrate that the ring has become magnetized, then perhaps a second sacrificial one should be created in a manner identical to the first, and this second magnet cut through with a hacksaw to reveal its hidden field.
I do think with a single sweep on the oscilloscope using (part of) the magnetizing current as a trigger, you could determine whether you succeeded in changing the magnetic state (e.g. reversing the direction of the permanent magnet). An increased signal response ( a healthy pulse) on the probe coil when the change occurred would be a clear indicator.NascentOxygen said:While soundly based on theory, this is somewhat impractical‡ here. The comparison is relatively subtle, and OP is not using a repetitive signal.
‡ though it would make for a fascinating lab demonstration!
If there is a need to demonstrate that the ring has become magnetized, then perhaps a second sacrificial one should be created in a manner identical to the first, and this second magnet cut through with a hacksaw to reveal its hidden field.
Charles Link said:Heating above the Curie temperature and magnetizing on cooling is perhaps the best way to make a high-quality permanent magnet. (I've only read about the process of doing this-I've never actually performed any such experiments.) If you already have a good permanent magnet, the heating process would be unnecessary. As NascentOxygen has pointed out, your choice of materials is important. Different magnetic materials have totally different properties on whether they make good permanent magnets and/or simply make a bunch of domains pointing in every direction upon removal of the applied field, etc. If you do begin with a permanent magnet, it will most likely take a healthy magnetic field in the opposite direction to reverse the direction of permanent magnetism. Two approaches could be used= 1)a strong current pulse running on a single thick and insulated wire down the center, or 2) wrapping the washer like a solenoid (again using insulated wire) to apply the magnetic field.
Charles Link said:Any solenoid you use to magnetize it must be insulated wire. You could do well to read about solenoids and magnetic fields=The field from the solenoid becomes stronger with stronger DC currents and also with more turns per unit length. When running high amounts of DC current through the solenoid (e.g. 1 or 2 amps or even less), you need to make sure the wires can handle the current and don't overheat-a potential fire hazard where the insulation of the wire could burn, etc... No current from the wires is used to run through the magnet. (Your magnet can be insulated, etc.) In reversing the direction of magnetism, the reversal would most likely take place within a few milliseconds, starting with a good permanent magnet, and a sufficiently strong magnetic field (from the solenoid) in the opposite direction.
For applying a magnetic field to a cylindrical magnet, you can just put the magnet inside the cylindrical solenoid. The magnetic field runs all throughout the inside of the solenoid in the direction of along its axis. The wire is wound many times around the solenoid, typically 20-30 loops or more per inch. For a washer/ring magnet, you would need to wind it (making the solenoid yourself), many times around through the middle and back to the outside, etc. For best results, you would want to wrap the entire donut/ring. For a probe wire, 5-10 loops might be sufficient, but for the magnetizing wire, (essentially a solenoid), i'd recommend about 100 loops if you can fit them all through the center. I can't supply a picture, but hopefully this helps... editing...Your ring magnet is essentially a long cylindrical magnet that is bent around in a loop so that the + and - poles make contact. You thereby need to have the solenoid be wrapped around as well. And additional comment on a previous item-in manufacturing a high-quality permanent magnet, I do think it is likely the magnetic field would be applied to the material when it is above the melting temperature, and not simply above the Curie temperature.Part Toon said:I think I understand, but just in case, can you post a rough image?
I am pretty sure that somewhere on the farm, there's some insulated copper wire lying around.
Charles Link said:For applying a magnetic field to a cylindrical magnet, you can just put the magnet inside the cylindrical solenoid. The magnetic field runs all throughout the inside of the solenoid in the direction of along its axis. The wire is wound many times around the solenoid, typically 20-30 loops or more per inch. For a washer/ring magnet, you would need to wind it (making the solenoid yourself), many times around through the middle and back to the outside, etc. For best results, you would want to wrap the entire donut/ring. For a probe wire, 5-10 loops might be sufficient, but for the magnetizing wire, (essentially a solenoid), i'd recommend about 100 loops if you can fit them all through the center. I can't supply a picture, but hopefully this helps... editing...Your ring magnet is essentially a long cylindrical magnet that is bent around in a loop so that the + and - poles make contact. You thereby need to have the solenoid be wrapped around as well. And additional comment on a previous item-in manufacturing a high-quality permanent magnet, I do think it is likely the magnetic field would be applied to the material when it is above the melting temperature, and not simply above the Curie temperature.