Is There Hope for My Dead Studio Monitor?

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SUMMARY

The discussion centers on troubleshooting a malfunctioning M-Audio BX5a active studio monitor that has stopped powering on, producing only a faint hum. Participants suggest that the issue likely stems from a failure in the internal amplifier, which is rated at 70 watts per channel. Recommendations include checking the fuses for continuity and inspecting the internal wiring, while cautioning against DIY repairs unless the user is experienced. Professional repair is advised for high-end devices like the BX5a.

PREREQUISITES
  • Understanding of active studio monitors and their components
  • Basic knowledge of electrical continuity testing
  • Familiarity with using an ohmmeter
  • Awareness of safety precautions when handling electronic devices
NEXT STEPS
  • Research M-Audio BX5a specifications and common issues
  • Learn how to perform continuity tests with a multimeter
  • Investigate professional repair services for studio monitors
  • Explore forums and resources on troubleshooting audio equipment
USEFUL FOR

Audio engineers, studio technicians, and anyone involved in maintaining or repairing studio monitors will benefit from this discussion.

miharbi
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One of my studio monitors went dead the other day. M-Audio BX5a - active monitors. Now it doesn't power up at all. All you get is an extremely faint hum near the power supply - almost silent. I checked the fuses and they look fine to my naive eye - no discoloration and the wires are intact. Any idea what the problem is? And does this sound fixable? Thanks.
 
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sounds more like that amplifier channel has failed
have you tried another speaker on that channel ?

Dave
 
Thanks for the reply. Not sure your question applies though. It's an active monitor. Needs no external amp.
 
Active monitors would have an amplifier built into them.

In your case, these are 70 watt amplifiers for each channel.

You could look for fuses and check them, but these are high-end expensive devices and you probably need to take it to the supplier or agent and get it fixed professionally.
 
vk6kro said:
Active monitors would have an amplifier built into them.

In your case, these are 70 watt amplifiers for each channel.

You could look for fuses and check them, but these are high-end expensive devices and you probably need to take it to the supplier or agent and get it fixed professionally.


Thanks. Yeah, I wouldn't try to fix it myself. Just curious what happened.
 
Hard to even guess.

Maybe when you get it back, ask the repairer to tell you what the fault was and what was the likely cause.
 
miharbi said:
Thanks for the reply. Not sure your question applies though. It's an active monitor. Needs no external amp.

vk6kro had a chance to respond before I did.

I wasnt implying external amplifiers
rather that as has been pointed out, if there are speakers then there are amplifiers and the fault described sounded like an amplifier fault

Dave
 
If the back comes off with screws you might open it and look. But be sure it's powered off. And decide if you'll void any warranty.

If you're lucky you'll find a broken wire or one of those push-on terminals that got loose and fell off.

Also that'll let you sniff for smell of fried speaker coil - do these get played real loud?

If you're not experienced don't poke around in there with power on. Transistor stuff uses mostly low voltage so it's not particularly life threatening, but an accidental short from screwdriver slip can sure ruin an expensive amplifier.

If you have an ohmmeter, placing it across speaker terminals on RX1 setting should give you a small audible click and maybe visible cone movement.

see also google search on your trouble.
for example: http://www.audioasylum.com/forums/pro/messages/1/12473.html

old jim
 
Last edited:
I checked the fuses and they look fine to my naive eye

Before doing anything else you ( or a friend?) should perform three simple checks, two with a meter.

Check the speaker fed by the other channel on this one and check the other channel speaker on this one.

Check acoss the terminals for continuity. The restance reading should be a few ohms.

Check the fuses with a continuity meter or by substitution.
 

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