Static test of Denso 12 V alternator

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SUMMARY

The discussion centers on the static testing of a Denso A127 alternator, previously removed from a JCB wheel digger due to charging issues. Key tests included checking the regulator, rectifier, rotor, and stator, with findings indicating that the alternator is likely functional despite some dirt on the slip rings. The participants suggest further dynamic testing on a tractor or connecting it to a motor to verify output voltage and current. The conversation also touches on the configuration of the stator windings, with indications that it may be delta-configured.

PREREQUISITES
  • Understanding of Denso A127 alternator components
  • Knowledge of electrical testing tools such as multimeters
  • Familiarity with alternator configurations (WYE vs. delta)
  • Basic principles of DC voltage and current measurement
NEXT STEPS
  • Research how to perform dynamic tests on automotive alternators
  • Learn about Denso alternator specifications and common issues
  • Investigate the differences between WYE and delta stator configurations
  • Explore the functionality of diode packs in alternators
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Automotive technicians, DIY enthusiasts, and anyone involved in the repair or testing of alternators, particularly those working with Denso models.

  • #31
Tom.G said:
Yup, intermittent coil-to-coil short. Hope you can find a motor rewind or alternator repair shop nearby. It's possible to do it yourself but kinda touchy, and often hard to get the right size wire and insulating paper if used.

Please keep us updated.
Sadly, the little old rewind shops are getting rare these days. Since I assume a bad stator is a less common fault than, say, a bad rectifier or regulator, I may be able to find another similar unit and make two into one.

Anyway, I can bide my time now as the old dynamo is back on line!

I'll certainly post an update - very frustrating to view a thread that is not resolved.
 
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  • #32
Guineafowl said:
It doesn't read shorted with the multimeter now, but if I squeeze the coils gently the reading will jump around a lot.

Sometimes, if you're lucky,...
you can poke the winding with a soft wood stick (ladies' orange stick for cuticle maintenance work well) and get the wires separated .
Then saturate the winding with varnish.
Proper material would be electrical varnish or industrial "Glyptol" electric motor paint made for the purpose.
I have had success with both Polyurethane wood furniture varnish from the hardware store and high temperature engine enamel from the auto parts store. For under the hood i think i'd prefer the engine enamel.
 
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