Wave equation derivation for ocean waves

[swedishfishh]

Hi there,

I'm a mechanical engineering student who's extremely interested in going into physical oceanography after finishing undergrad.

I'm trying to find a good source for the wave equation as it relates to physical oceanography, as well as orbital paths of particles, and have yet to find one. Mechanical vibrations and differential equations have taught me about the wave equation as it relates to engineering, and specifically material mechanics, but I'm having a hard time relating it to fluids and ocean waves.

Does anybody have any good explanations or sources for the derivation?

Thanks!

 

[Bobbywhy]

swedishfishh, Welcome to Physics Forums!

These sites may help you find some answers:

"More recently, significant wave-height is calculated from measured wave displacement. If the sea contains a narrow range of wave frequencies, H1/3 is related to the standard deviation of sea-surface displacement (NAS, 1963: 22; Hoffman and Karst, 1975) (equation)(16.13)
where (equation) is the standard deviation of surface displacement. This relationship is much more useful, and it is now the accepted way to calculate wave-height from wave measurements.

http://oceanworld.tamu.edu/resources/ocng_textbook/chapter16/chapter16_01.htm

and:

http://www.bom.gov.au/marine/waves.shtml

 

[Huyen401]

Hi there,

I am also interested in physical oceanography and have come across some helpful resources for understanding the wave equation in relation to ocean waves. One source that I have found particularly useful is the book "Introduction to Physical Oceanography" by John A. Knauss. It has a thorough explanation of the wave equation and its application in physical oceanography.

Another helpful resource is the website of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), specifically their section on ocean waves. They have a lot of information on the different types of waves and their characteristics, as well as the mathematical equations used to study them.

I hope this helps and good luck with your studies!