What Are Some Tips for Successful Gardening?

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Gardening is a cherished activity for many participants, with roots tracing back to childhood experiences and family traditions. Organic gardening methods are favored, emphasizing the use of natural techniques over chemicals. Current gardening efforts include cultivating perennials like blueberries and raspberries, alongside plans for vegetable and herb gardens. Participants express a desire for more space to garden, reflecting on the challenges of apartment living and the joy of nurturing plants. The discussion highlights cultural differences in gardening practices, particularly contrasting American and Spanish lifestyles regarding home and garden ownership.
  • #2,551
dlgoff said:
This thing is going to reach the ceiling with in a month. And it drinks a quart or more of water a day now.
Yay! Keep that sucker growing, and give it a place of honor in your garden next season! I'd love to have some warm, sunny place to keep plants through the winter. I have a log house that can get fairly cold at times and overly hot at other times, with large overhanging eaves that prevent sunlight from getting through. I need to think about investing in a greenhouse (larger than the mini-greenhouse that our neighbor built for us), especially if it can be temperature controlled.
 
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  • #2,552
I need a green house for tomatoes in the summer because of all the damn deer. I don't have anything but nice tilled soil in my garden now but it's getting all trampled down from deer hoofs.
 
  • #2,553
dlgoff said:
I need a green house for tomatoes in the summer because of all the damn deer. I don't have anything but nice tilled soil in my garden now but it's getting all trampled down from deer hoofs.
Rats!
 
  • #2,554
dlgoff said:
I need a green house for tomatoes in the summer because of all the damn deer. I don't have anything but nice tilled soil in my garden now but it's getting all trampled down from deer hoofs.
Come to Maine, and drag Astro with you. If we can get more than a few acres tilled and under production in high-value crops like chiles, it should be possible to get buyers for the produce. Long-term crops like chiles are seasonal, here and without investments in greenhouse facilities, profits could be boom-and-bust.

Stay close. I have the tractor and the tiller already, and I have a friend in the business who keeps abreast of manure/compost possibilities.
 
  • #2,555
dlgoff said:
There are many blooms left so I'll give it some more time and just shake like you suggest. But I don't think it's going to work since the first blooms the plant had are still there. The peddles have been dried for a couple of weeks now and the green part of the bloom (where the tomato fruit should start) has grown like they're full grown tomatoes. Normally when a bloom doesn't take it drops off like you say, but not these. As a mater of fact, no blooms have dropped off. I've never seen a full grown tomato top without a fruit. That's why I think it needs pollen from another variety.
I can't find anything that says any tomato needs cross pollination. Tomatoes are self pollinating, meaning another plant is not required. You just need to be able to shake the pollen loose since the pollen in tomato anthers is on the INSIDE and not on the outside as in other plants.

http://pollinator.com/self_pollinating_tomato.htm
 
  • #2,556
Evo said:
I can't find anything that says any tomato needs cross pollination. Tomatoes are self pollinating, meaning another plant is not required. You just need to be able to shake the pollen loose since the pollen in tomato anthers is on the INSIDE and not on the outside as in other plants.

http://pollinator.com/self_pollinating_tomato.htm
Old varieties of tomatoes generally need cross-species pollination to produce well. Hybrids do not always require cross-species pollination, but they often require aggressive plant-to-plant pollination, including the intervention of large buzz-pollinators like bumblebees. We have covered this before, and I can supply links if necessary.

Heirloom tomatoes (often the best-tasting) generally cannot pollinate properly in isolation. It is best to plant them in proximity to other tomato varieties to get the best yield.
 
  • #2,557
turbo-1 said:
Heirloom tomatoes (often the best-tasting) generally cannot pollinate properly in isolation. It is best to plant them in proximity to other tomato varieties to get the best yield.
Actually they should have NO cross pollination.

People have to go to great lengths to avoid cross pollination of heirloom varieties.

http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/heirloom/msg0508121728078.html
 
  • #2,558
Evo said:
I can't find anything that says any tomato needs cross pollination. Tomatoes are self pollinating, meaning another plant is not required. You just need to be able to shake the pollen loose since the pollen in tomato anthers is on the INSIDE and not on the outside as in other plants.

http://pollinator.com/self_pollinating_tomato.htm
I'm going to make a shaker and do as you say. Thanks Evo.
 
  • #2,559
Evo said:
Actually they should have NO cross pollination.

People have to go to great lengths to avoid cross pollination of heirloom varieties.

http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/heirloom/msg0508121728078.html

For another view...
http://pollinator.com/self_pollinating_tomato.htm

As for avoiding cross-pollinating heirlooms, that is only a worry if you are grower who wants to collect and market seeds, and need to keep the seeds true to the heirloom type. If you want to get the best yield just for the fruit (to eat, not to save seeds for propagation) it's a good idea to encourage cross-pollination. I'll keep growing Moskvich tomatoes (indeterminate, heirloom variety) because they yield very well. They require staking and pruning and don't self-fertilize as well as most hybrids do, but if you have other varieties around, they fertilize just fine as long as you have bees.

If you haunt gardening forums looking for people who are having trouble with low yields, it is most often with heirloom varieties. Generally, hybrids are more reliable in that regard. I plant both heirloom AND hybrids side-by-side and never have problems with yields. This year, I got by with just one hybrid variety, but next year, I'll probably plant an early-flowering hybrid, and a late-flowering hybrid to better overlap the long flowering season of the Moskviches.
 
  • #2,560
Hey Evo, Astro, Turbo,

Why when I take perfectly healthy plants from outside and bring them indoors in pots (ghost/ornamental peppers) that within a few weeks they start to show aphids, and other signs of ill will ?

Is it the dirt (miracle grow) ? Should I put the dirt in the microwave and zap the crap out of it before transplanting them. I get aggravated after spending so much time and effort getting the things to grow in the first place.

Thanks...

Rhody...
 
  • #2,561
rhody said:
Hey Evo, Astro, Turbo,

Why when I take perfectly healthy plants from outside and bring them indoors in pots (ghost/ornamental peppers) that within a few weeks they start to show aphids, and other signs of ill will ?

Is it the dirt (miracle grow) ? Should I put the dirt in the microwave and zap the crap out of it before transplanting them. I get aggravated after spending so much time and effort getting the things to grow in the first place.

Thanks...

Rhody...
Could it be the lack of predators in your house? During the growing season, ladybugs and their dangerous-looking larvae are voracious eaters, and they may be able to strike a balance with aphids when they have access to your plants. Bring the plants inside, and there is nothing around to eat the aphids, so their population can boom.

Just a best-guess.
 
  • #2,562
I had planned to clean out the garden today, in preparation for manure-spreading and tilling. Got up to see this:

Boo.jpg


Trick or treat! It's still snowing lightly, BTW. Very wet stuff.
 
  • #2,563
rhody said:
Hey Evo, Astro, Turbo,

Why when I take perfectly healthy plants from outside and bring them indoors in pots (ghost/ornamental peppers) that within a few weeks they start to show aphids, and other signs of ill will ?

Is it the dirt (miracle grow) ? Should I put the dirt in the microwave and zap the crap out of it before transplanting them. I get aggravated after spending so much time and effort getting the things to grow in the first place.

Thanks...

Rhody...
I had exactly the same problem last year. My wife blamed me for bring them in the house. I thought her plants contaminated mine. The plants were covered in aphids.

This year, if I bring them inside, I'll let them have frost to kill any aphids. The crazy thing is that the ladybugs are already hibernating, so they are not around to eat aphids.

Microwaving the dirt should work.
 
  • #2,564
Astronuc said:
I had exactly the same problem last year. My wife blamed me for bring them in the house. I thought her plants contaminated mine. The plants were covered in aphids.

This year, if I bring them inside, I'll let them have frost to kill any aphids. The crazy thing is that the ladybugs are already hibernating, so they are not around to eat aphids.

Microwaving the dirt should work.

Alright that did it, no stinking little bug or fungus or whatever else lurks in the dirt is going to stop me from keeping these plants year round, anyone know of a specific set of frequencies that will cause them to DIE... I am all for waving a magic wand over the plants and let the RF energy do the work. There, I just issued a PF challenge, anyone know how to accomplish this ?

It is possible because almost 100 years ago a man by the name of http://www.google.com/#hl=en&expIds...&aql=&oq=royal+ray&gs_rfai=&pbx=1&fp=1&cad=b" killed cancer cells and bacteria cells with active radio technology... If he could do it, we sure can here with small simple beings like aphids now, can't we ?

Rhody... needed to blow off a little steam that's all... I hate to see a lot of effort go to waste.
 
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  • #2,565
rhody said:
Alright that did it, no stinking little bug or fungus or whatever else lurks in the dirt is going to stop me from keeping these plants year round, anyone know of a specific set of frequencies that will cause them to DIE... I am all for waving a magic wand over the plants and let the RF energy do the work. There, I just issued a PF challenge, anyone know how to accomplish this ?

It is possible because almost 100 years ago a man by the name of http://www.google.com/#hl=en&expIds...&aql=&oq=royal+ray&gs_rfai=&pbx=1&fp=1&cad=b" killed cancer cells and bacteria cells with active radio technology... If he could do it, we sure can here with small simple beings like aphids now, can't we ?

Rhody... needed to blow off a little steam that's all... I hate to see a lot of effort go to waste.

hmmm... Interesting. Of course, the technology is widely used now in the treatment of cancers.

But we're trying to get rid of aphids. How's about we merge the "keep the teenagers away with ultrasonics" and Rifes beam technologies?

Kids B Gone
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXhRmv1mrs4

Does anyone know if aphids have ears?

google google google

hmm... Can't seem to find anything about their hearing.

But they don't like http://www.csmonitor.com/Science/2010/0809/Aphids-in-your-garden-Try-warm-goat-breath." . Get a goat. Or maybe an artificial goat.

Ah ha!
http://www.kaz.com/kaz/humidifiers/products/vicks-vaporizer-with-nightlight-v100/" , only $9.99!

Of course, now you have to get a de-humidifier. :frown:
 
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  • #2,566
rhody said:
Alright that did it, no stinking little bug or fungus or whatever else lurks in the dirt is going to stop me from keeping these plants year round, anyone know of a specific set of frequencies that will cause them to DIE... I am all for waving a magic wand over the plants and let the RF energy do the work. There, I just issued a PF challenge, anyone know how to accomplish this ?

It is possible because almost 100 years ago a man by the name of http://www.google.com/#hl=en&expIds...&aql=&oq=royal+ray&gs_rfai=&pbx=1&fp=1&cad=b" killed cancer cells and bacteria cells with active radio technology... If he could do it, we sure can here with small simple beings like aphids now, can't we ?

Rhody... needed to blow off a little steam that's all... I hate to see a lot of effort go to waste.
Microwaves excite the water molecules which boil water in tissues. So microwaving moist soil or bugs will steam them, or internal vapor will blow bugs apart.
 
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  • #2,567
OK,

I took a deep breath, and I will zap the dirt, but my challenge still stands, I want to upset certain membranes in their nasty little aphid carcass's without effecting anything else in the vicinity. That would truly be impressive.

Astronuc asked me to give my experience with growing "Bhut Jolokia peppers and getting them to produce peppers in normal pepper season: Region: NE US, from Mid July - Late September.

1. Use peat to start them, early to mid Jan, reason they take 150 - 180 days to grow in climates suitable to New England, your time will be less in mid Atlantic and Southern states

2. Use a decent heat mat, set to about 80% F and place the seeds in peat (soft for roots to take) in a tray with wet paper towels underneath and covered with a clear plastic top or cling wrap. Just cover the seed with a tiny bit of peat, that's it. Take the cover off every few days and make sure the top of the peat is not bone dry, add a little water if needed.

3. They should sprout in 8 to 10 days, I have almost 90% luck with my seeds.

4. Once the sprouts differentiate with two tiny leaves take the cover off, then use a grow light if you have one for an hour or two a day.

5. Once they are hardy enough to transplant, use a potting soil that does not hold a ton of moisture, I use miracle grow (moisture control) or simply add sand and some peat to your mixture. (Important, microwave all transplant soil before you do this or aphid larvae present in the soil will cause you problems)

6. The plants will not produce fruit if you put them next to a foundation with full sun you will cook the roots as well. Above 95% F daily temps.

7. Be patient, it took me two seasons of trying to figure this out.

8. Harden your plants by putting young ones in slight wind for a few hours, until the stems thicken, you will know when you can leave them in full wind.

9. These suckers are perennials so they should, continue to produce I am told for up to ten years.

10. Always handle the peppers with rubber gloves, ask Evo about her experience with habanerio's, the pulp and the seeds are very hot, (these are twice as hot as those) the skin minus pulp is actually kind of sweet, the peppers are not thick and juicy like you find with normal varieties. I got the juice under my fingernails and suffered in pain when I touched my eye, so be warned.

11. Here is a place to order seeds:

http://www.greenhousebusiness.com/bhjoseandpl.html"

Good prices, Warning: do not buy pepper plants from Ted, everyone I bought died due to disease, aphids, just buy seeds. You cannot separate the roots etc from the dirt and the roots themselves appear to be contaminated. Mine grown from scratch were not. His seeds are hot and his is a decent man and worthy of your business.

Here is a general link for your review in case you find a better deal:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...=X&ei=c_fNTJfZNpGqsAPKxNCFDg&ved=0CHYQ1QIoBA"

General Comments:

Everyone's taste and pallet is different, some people used to habanerios may not have a tough time with these peppers, others who never have had a hot pepper in their lives may disassociate themselves from you. If people who are lightweights insist on trying them, slice a pepper open (with gloves on) separate a bit of pulp or a single seed and let them taste it. The hotness takes 5 to 10 minutes to wear off. If you assault your taste senses with 20 to 30 seeds I guarantee you from multiple trials you will be in for some serious chemical discomfort (saying that lightly). You can interfere with the ebb and flow of the hotness with milk, a glass of ice cold water, taking sips every 30 seconds or so till the ten minute period expires. Hopefully you won't first.

Do not let your kids handle or play with them, if they get the juice in their eyes they are in for some serious pain, and you the guilt that goes with it. A good rule of thumb if they do is to wash their hands, then use a nail file and force soap under their nails. Repeat as necessary until you can no longer detect a trace of pepper smell from their fingers.

I consider these peppers, force multipliers, a little goes a long way. They are good in salsa, chili, etc... a challenge to grow, mine are still producing in Oct, having been started in March, so again, plan accordingly. Good luck, be patient and you will have something to talk about when you have friends over.

Rhody...
 
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  • #2,568
I have a real aversion for doing anything easy.. I currently reside in the UK and find exotic and subtropical gardening to be just that challenge.

At first it was scientific, ie what would grow in this climate in terms of tenderness.. now its just something I've fallen in love with.

Some flower colours are awe inspiring, check out the Echeveria glauca flower.

That said I do grow fruit as well; Tomatoes, Peppers, Raspberries, Strawberries and well Rhunarb (not a fruit obviously)
 
  • #2,569
sprudence said:
I have a real aversion for doing anything easy.. I currently reside in the UK and find exotic and subtropical gardening to be just that challenge.

At first it was scientific, ie what would grow in this climate in terms of tenderness.. now its just something I've fallen in love with.

Some flower colours are awe inspiring, check out the Echeveria glauca flower.

That said I do grow fruit as well; Tomatoes, Peppers, Raspberries, Strawberries and well Rhunarb (not a fruit obviously)

Welcome to PF, sprudence...as I was reading your post I thought, oh wow, this might be the UK's only banana farmer :wink:.
 
  • #2,570
sprudence said:
... I do grow fruit as well; Tomatoes, Peppers, Raspberries, Strawberries and well Rhunarb (not a fruit obviously)
:!)

Welcome to PF
 
  • #2,571
thanks for the welcome!

lisa, yes a little global warming, an extention of the garden, I could do that ;-)

Right now my bananas seem not to be growing as high as about a metre, but that's because I was moving them all summer to find the the perfect place for them.
 
  • #2,572
rhody said:
Alright that did it, no stinking little bug or fungus or whatever else lurks in the dirt is going to stop me from keeping these plants year round, anyone know of a specific set of frequencies that will cause them to DIE... I am all for waving a magic wand over the plants and let the RF energy do the work. There, I just issued a PF challenge, anyone know how to accomplish this ?
You may want to explore some organic options. Companion-planting garlic with your peppers may help control aphids. You could also keep a few pots of nasturtiums around when you bring the peppers inside. Aphids LOVE nasturtiums and may abandon pepper plants to attack them. Even better, nasturtium blossoms make a nice garnish for salads, and the leaves have a mild peppery taste and can be eaten in place of watercress, arugula, etc.
 
  • #2,573
tried growing some squashes. very limited success. but between bugs and inconsistent rain, not much of anything did well this year. and yeah, i know the pattypan is a summer squash, but it was planted late, too. wouldn't plant those again, tho, just too bland. the underdeveloped pumpkin had started to rot, but there's still a couple more outside that may yet be edible.

001.jpg
 
  • #2,574
Proton Soup said:
tried growing some squashes. very limited success. but between bugs and inconsistent rain, not much of anything did well this year. and yeah, i know the pattypan is a summer squash, but it was planted late, too. wouldn't plant those again, tho, just too bland. the underdeveloped pumpkin had started to rot, but there's still a couple more outside that may yet be edible.

001.jpg
Great! Use the summer squashes as soon as you can, or cook, process and freeze them for later use. My wife and I have a cold cellar that is pretty reliable about keeping winter squashes until at least February or March, so Buttercup is a favorite. I plant a 35-foot row every year, so we have some to give away and some to keep for the winter. You might try Hubbard, if you like winter squash, though you may need a hatchet to open them when you want to clean and cook them.
 
  • #2,575
dlgoff said:
There are many blooms left so I'll give it some more time and just shake like you suggest. But I don't think it's going to work since the first blooms the plant had are still there. The peddles have been dried for a couple of weeks now and the green part of the bloom (where the tomato fruit should start) has grown like they're full grown tomatoes. Normally when a bloom doesn't take it drops off like you say, but not these. As a mater of fact, no blooms have dropped off. I've never seen a full grown tomato top without a fruit. That's why I think it needs pollen from another variety.

i've been growing a yellow heirloom variety that i found at lowes. don't remember what it was called, but one of the bigger starter plant companies distributes them (can't remember which, but there's only like 2 of them here). but in any case, i had some difficulty with them setting fruit at first. after a bit of reading, i learned that temperature and humidity affect the pollination of tomatoes. so you might want to experiment a bit with planting times, or at least seek out some varieties that are better suited to your climate. or just be patient and wait it out, which is what worked for me.
 
  • #2,576
turbo-1 said:
Great! Use the summer squashes as soon as you can, or cook, process and freeze them for later use. My wife and I have a cold cellar that is pretty reliable about keeping winter squashes until at least February or March, so Buttercup is a favorite. I plant a 35-foot row every year, so we have some to give away and some to keep for the winter. You might try Hubbard, if you like winter squash, though you may need a hatchet to open them when you want to clean and cook them.

i actually planted some hubbards (two hills), just didn't get any fruit.

you have any secrets for growing buttercups? i think i will put most of my eggs in that basket next year.
 
  • #2,577
Proton Soup said:
i actually planted some hubbards (two hills), just didn't get any fruit.

you have any secrets for growing buttercups? i think i will put most of my eggs in that basket next year.
Buttercups do well on the ground, but this year I gave them a trellis made of Tractor Supply cattle panels and T-posts, and they did really well! I have a tiny greenhouse, and I started the plants a bit early and transplanted them to the garden when the soil was warm. They did great. I should note that we had almost no rain from mid-June until late August, I had to water when I could to alleviate that drought. If we had anything like normal rain-fall, I would expect that the trellis experiment would have given us far more squash. Even with the sub-standard season, we did OK, but I attribute that to the trellis.
 
  • #2,578
turbo-1 said:
Buttercups do well on the ground, but this year I gave them a trellis made of Tractor Supply cattle panels and T-posts, and they did really well! I have a tiny greenhouse, and I started the plants a bit early and transplanted them to the garden when the soil was warm. They did great. I should note that we had almost no rain from mid-June until late August, I had to water when I could to alleviate that drought. If we had anything like normal rain-fall, I would expect that the trellis experiment would have given us far more squash. Even with the sub-standard season, we did OK, but I attribute that to the trellis.

darn, i meant to say butternuts! but those are good, too.
 
  • #2,579
Proton Soup said:
darn, i meant to say butternuts! but those are good, too.
I don't know anybody that has a problem growing butternuts. They are not as prolific as zucchinis, but still folks always seem to have a lot to give away. My wife and I prefer the hard winter squashes like buttercups, so that's primarily what we grow. It helps if you have a large bumblebee population to keep the yields up.
 
  • #2,580
Proton, what you *did* get look very nice!

Do you have a good bee population? Squash really need a lot of bees.
 

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