FaNgS said:
So without a stopper this means that I will be allowing any vapors escape my system and at the same time my liquid quantities will reduce. How do I properly control the mixtures and make sure it will not dry out while it's left overnight?
Your condenser will handle that.
It's great that you brought up cleanup and waste disposal I forgot to mention them in the thread. Would regular household dish soap do or some Alconox glassware detergent? I was also doing some reading about disposal of thionyl chloride and in some sites it's been suggested to neutralize it in sodium hydroxide or sodium carbonate overnight.
Can I use a plastic tub for soaking or should it be made of another material?
You should only have traces of thionyl chloride on your glassware. Before placing anything in the plastic (yes, plastic is the way to go) tub, you should rinse the glassware with fairly dry hexanes. Straight out of the bottle should do. Use Alconox if you have it or something like Dawn. Add sodium carbonate to the wash tub. This tub will be at pH ~10 so even with sodium carbonate, it is considered hazardous to bare hands. You must use gloves... big thick dishwashing gloves not those wimpy nitrile one-use throwaways. Try not to stack glass on glass. Broken glass defeats PPO every time.
The procedure involves adding both the thionyl chloride and benzene together with the carbon for treatment. So in this case they would both come out as the filtrate when I'm collecting the carbon.
I'm not actually sure about the Chemistry involved when using benzene and what its role with thionyl chloride is, all I could find was that benzene is used as an inert solvent when thionyl chloride is involved. However using benzene is an issue for me because I'll be using the treated carbon after treatment 3 for adsorption studies of benzene, toluene and xylene from aqueous solutions. So the benzene (from treatment 2) will adsorb on the carbon surface and fill up the adsorption sites before I even use the carbon the adsorbtion study.
Benzene is there as an inert solvent only. Your experiment is converting all the acidic (carboxylic acid) sites to basic sites with the difunctional amine. You will be converting those carboxylic sites into amides with an aliphatic primary amine tail. If you are trying to duplicate someone's result, you must perform the procedure as it was originally published. If you are copying a procedure for a different purpose, you may change whatever you wish. You are heating to reflux so you should understand that the primary consideration for the use of one solvent over another is the temperature control you have with the lowest boiling component or a low boiling azeotrope, in this case it is thionyl chloride at 75
oC or its azeotrope with benzene (temp?). Cyclohexane boils at essentially the same temperature and toluene boils at 111
oC. I'm not sure if cyclohexane azeotropes with thionyl chloride but it really shouldn't matter.
I believe that BTEX compounds bind reversibly to carbon so you might be heat treating and purging the carbon before your experiment else you must change solvent systems. Everything you are describing should work with 100% thionyl chloride and
no solvent. That's the safest way to go. For workup, co-distill with a non-reactive aliphatic solvent close to the boiling point of the thionyl chloride to remove the final traces. Remember that when you rotovap or vacuum distill thionyl chloride, you are pulling nasty stuff through your pumps unless you take precautions. If you are using a water aspirator to lower the pressure, you should place a drying tube between the apparatus and the aspirator. The only time I used an aspirator with thionyl chloride it filled the lab with vapors. Won't do that ever again unless the aspirator and the rotovap is in the hood.
After treatment 2, I'm supposed to dry the mixture in a rotary evaporator wash the carbon "extensively" with benzene to remove any traces of thionyl chloride. How much benzene should I use and how do I know that all the thionyl chloride is removed?
I would use a higher boiling aliphatic solvent instead. Maybe methylcyclohexane (BP 101
oC). To determine how much is enough, you need to heat the dry carbon after washing 10X with volume equal to volume of carbon (estimate this) and insert a moist litmus paper into the headspace briefly. You are co-distilling the thionyl chloride in this step. Add solvent, evap to dryness, stop, repeat 9 more times. Test after the last wash.
Also after treatment 3, I am to wash the carbon extensively with chloroform to remove any of the ethylene diamine and separate out the carbon by centrifugation (not rotary evaporator is mentioned). Again how much chloroform is enough?
Ten times an equal volume based on volume of carbon plug at the bottom of the centrifuge tube. 0.8 g of carbon will be roughly 1 mL. 20 g will be roughly 20 mL.
The last treatment uses chloroform for the washing and benzene is soluble in chloroform. So any benzene adsorbed on the carbon should get removed and I can remove the chloroform by using water. So it should be okay right and it shouldn't effect my adsorbtion study?
Remove chloroform (BP 61
oC) from the carbon with water? Think through this step very carefully.
I can't say whether or not they would work but as far as toluene goes it's the same issue as with benzene since I'll be using the carbon for toluene adsorption studies.
The fume hoods look like they have pretty good suction and the lab is always cold and controlled at 19 deg C. As for the drying agents all what I've seen available is Calcium Chloride.
That will work.
I have standard lab glassware and a fume hood, do they count as explosion proof?
How will you apply heat? Rotovap? In my experience, fume hoods are built to be explosion proof. YMMV.
I was planning to just let the fume hoods' fan suck out any gases. If a scrubber is more safe I will do that but can you explain on how I can set that up (pictures would be great)?
If the hood will handle it, then go with it. If you need to scrub the gas, here's how. You will need three side arm filter flasks. The first flask will be empty and placed between your reaction mixture and the wet scrubbers. It should be sized to contain the contents of both of the other wet scrubbers. Use either a cork or rubber stopper with a hole sized to accommodate a short piece of glass tubing that will attach to the hose leading from the reaction setup. The glass tubing should be inserted far enough into the flask so that it just below the level of the side arm nipple.
Attach a hose from the side arm nipple to a glass tube inserted through the cork or rubber stopper of the second flask. The glass tubing should reach down to just above the bottom of the flask. Attach a rubber tube to the side arm nipple of the second flask to another glass tube inserted through the cork or rubber stopper of the third flask. Again, the glass tube should reach almost to the bottom of the flask.
Fill the second and third flasks with the scrubbing solution. 5% NaOH should work fine. Note the total volume in both of the flasks to be sure that the first, empty flask can fully contain the contents of the second and third in the event of suckback. Now attach a 'y' or 't' connector to the top of your condenser and fit with a rubber tube of sufficient length to reach the first vessel's side arm nipple. Attach to the side arm nipple.
The remaining arm from the 'y' or 't' is attached to a dry nitrogen source and dry nitrogen is introduced slowly. The nitrogen will carry away any HCl or SO2 evolved during the reaction, through the empty first flask into the remaining two flasks containing the NaOH solution. Adjust the flow so that bubbles are slowly seen in both of the scrubber flasks. Now wire everything tightly since everything will now be under a slight positive pressure. Be sure you don't run out of dry nitrogen. Don't use argon.
Easy, right?