Is there a difference between wiring methods for AGM deep cycle solar batteries?

In summary, the two wiring methods are almost identical, but it is better to grab the leads from opposite sides as it charges and discharges the batteries more evenly.
  • #1
eddie90
48
1
Good day,

When dealing with AGM deep cycle solar batteries, is there a difference between the following two wiring methods?

By the way, I found these pictures online but they describe the two scenarios

Basically the two are almost identical but on one you are grabbing your positive and negative leads from the same end of the battery bank. And the second method, you grab them from opposite sides.

I've seen these two different methods but I was told that it is better to grab the leads from opposite sides as it charges and discharges the batteries more evenly.

Thank you
 

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  • #2
eddie90 said:
Good day,

When dealing with AGM deep cycle solar batteries, is there a difference between the following two wiring methods?

By the way, I found these pictures online but they describe the two scenarios

Basically the two are almost identical but on one you are grabbing your positive and negative leads from the same end of the battery bank. And the second method, you grab them from opposite sides.

I've seen these two different methods but I was told that it is better to grab the leads from opposite sides as it charges and discharges the batteries more evenly.

Thank you
The connectivity looks the same to me. Am I missing something?
 
  • #3
berkeman said:
The connectivity looks the same to me. Am I missing something?
That's the thing lol to me it seems like its the same thing.

In case you don't exactly get what I am asking, look at this pic and compare it to the first one I uploaded. Would these 2 setups behave the same way?
 

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  • #4
eddie90 said:
I've seen these two different methods but I was told that it is better to grab the leads from opposite sides as it charges and discharges the batteries more evenly.

If the cables are big enough, there will be negligable voltage differences between batteries in parallel, and thus negligable unevenness. But if the cables are too small it could make a difference. If there is a problem, use thicker cable, rather than fooling with the connections.

The cable gauge that you use has an ohms/foot (ohms/meter) rating. Calculate the voltage drop over the distance of cable between batteries. If it is more than 0.1 volts, then use a bigger gauge.

Example, 8 gauge copper cable 0.00063 ohms/foot. Say 2 feet between batteries, so 0.0012 ohms total. Say 100 amps current. The voltage drop is 0.12 volts. In that case, I would upgrade to 6 gauge cable.
 
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  • #5
eddie90 said:
I've seen these two different methods but I was told that it is better to grab the leads from opposite sides as it charges and discharges the batteries more evenly.

That's rubbish.

Your two pictures are electrically identical.
 
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  • #6
anorlunda said:
If the cables are big enough, there will be negligable voltage differences between batteries in parallel, and thus negligable unevenness. But if the cables are too small it could make a difference. If there is a problem, use thicker cable, rather than fooling with the connections.

The cable gauge that you use has an ohms/foot (ohms/meter) rating. Calculate the voltage drop over the distance of cable between batteries. If it is more than 0.1 volts, then use a bigger gauge.

Example, 8 gauge copper cable 0.00063 ohms/foot. Say 2 feet between batteries, so 0.0012 ohms total. Say 100 amps current. The voltage drop is 0.12 volts. In that case, I would upgrade to 6 gauge cable.

The cable I am using is 2 gauge, see image. I can't figure out the ohms per foot. I found a table online that says its .1593 not sure if that's right
Also all the batteries are right next to each other, all the connections are about 20" long. EDIT**:10"
 

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Last edited:
  • #7
billy_joule said:
That's rubbish.

Your two pictures are electrically identical.
That is kind of what I thought lol but I need to make sure
 
  • #8
eddie90 said:
The cable I am using is 2 gauge, see image. I can't figure out the ohms per foot. I found a table online that says its .1593 not sure if that's right
2AWG copper wire is 6289 feet per Ohm, so 1/6289 = .000159 Ohms per foot.

c289_pocket_ref_3rd_ed_inhand.jpg
 
  • #9
BTW, are you using an inverter to make AC Mains voltage from the 12V battery bank, or is your whole system 12V? :smile:
 
  • #10
My bad, I meant to say 10" long. Its short cables
 
  • #11
berkeman said:
BTW, are you using an inverter to make AC Mains voltage from the 12V battery bank, or is your whole system 12V? :smile:
Yes sir, the whole system stays at 12V. Its powering a mobile surveillance unit. A few IP Cameras, IR sensors, sirens etc
 
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  • #12
billy_joule said:
That's rubbish.

Your two pictures are electrically identical.

That is not a 'schematic' diagram. The connecting leads and contacts have a finite (possibly measurable) resistance. Re-draw the diagram with little Rs instead of ideal connecting wires and the two layouts are different. The point is, how significant are the Rs? If the Rs are significant then the problem can be solved - for free - by changing the connections. With a decent Hall Effect Tong Ammeter, you could, perhaps, measure the difference between the currents from the three banks before making any changes. The characteristics of the PV cells may well compensate, in any case.
 
  • #13
sophiecentaur said:
That is not a 'schematic' diagram. The connecting leads and contacts have a finite (possibly measurable) resistance. Re-draw the diagram with little Rs instead of ideal connecting wires and the two layouts are different. The point is, how significant are the Rs? If the Rs are significant then the problem can be solved - for free - by changing the connections. With a decent Hall Effect Tong Ammeter, you could, perhaps, measure the difference between the currents from the three banks before making any changes. The characteristics of the PV cells may well compensate, in any case.

Absolutely correct and because batteries are dynamic a small imbalance in the charge/discharge rates of each battery on the parallel string will cause the imbalance to increase over time as one or more battery discharges and charges before the others. The very small interconnect wire resistances serve as equalization resistors at high current levels and using the opposite string ends as the string connection point makes the resistance to each battery closer to being equal if all the batteries are at the same SOC.
 

1. How do I determine the appropriate wire size for my solar bank?

The appropriate wire size for a solar bank can be determined by calculating the maximum current that will flow through the wire, as well as the length of the wire and the voltage drop. A general rule of thumb is to use a wire size that can handle at least 125% of the maximum current.

2. Should I use copper or aluminum wiring for my solar bank?

Copper wiring is generally preferred for solar banks due to its superior conductivity and resistance to corrosion. However, aluminum wiring can also be used as long as it is sized appropriately and properly connected with the appropriate connectors.

3. Is it necessary to use a fuse or breaker in the solar bank wiring?

Yes, it is necessary to use a fuse or breaker in the solar bank wiring to protect against overcurrent and prevent damage to the wiring or other components. The size of the fuse or breaker should be based on the maximum current that the system can handle.

4. Can I run the solar bank wiring underground?

Yes, it is possible to run the solar bank wiring underground, but it is important to use appropriate wiring with insulation rated for underground use. It is also important to follow local building codes and regulations for burying wiring.

5. How do I properly ground my solar bank wiring?

Proper grounding of the solar bank wiring is essential for safety and to protect against electrical surges. This can be done by connecting the negative terminal of the solar panels to a grounding rod or metal stake buried in the ground. It is also important to connect any metal enclosures or conduit to the grounding system.

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