Shallow water and small amplitude wave?

In summary, the KdV equation originates from the relaxation of both the small amplitude wave and shallow water approximations, resulting in a weakly nonlinear equation that accurately describes long wave behavior.
  • #1
hanson
319
0
Hi all.
I am re-visiting again the origin of the KdV equation.
On one hand, in the theory of small amplitude waves, the amplitude is assumed to be very small and hence the governing equations and the boundary conditions are hence linearised.
On the other hand, having linearised the above equtaions, if there is a very long wave (or very shallow water), then we further obtain a wave solution with no dispersion at all.

So is it correct to say that the KdV equation originates when we are relaxing the assumption of the small amplitude wave approximtionm, making it a small but not very small amplitudes, and hence having the equation WEAKLY nonlinear (no longer linear), and at the same time, we also consider shallow but not very shallow water, and hence the wave is WEAKLY nonlinear, and it is a balance between these two effects that produce the KdV equation?i

In other words, the relaxation of BOTH the small amplitude wave and shallow water approximations are required to get the KdV equation, right?

If we just introduce weakly nonlinear effect with the shallow water parameter still tends to zero, then there won't be a KdV type of balance, right?
 
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  • #2



Hi there,

Thank you for bringing up this interesting topic. As a scientist who has studied the KdV equation, I can confirm that your understanding is correct.

The KdV equation does indeed originate from the relaxation of both the small amplitude wave and shallow water approximations. This is because the KdV equation is a weakly nonlinear equation, meaning that it takes into account small nonlinear effects while still being a linear approximation. In other words, the amplitude of the wave is not assumed to be very small, but it is still not large enough to significantly affect the linear behavior of the wave.

Additionally, the shallow water approximation is also relaxed in the derivation of the KdV equation. This is because the KdV equation describes the behavior of long waves, which means that the water depth must also be taken into account. The shallow water approximation assumes that the water depth is much larger than the wavelength of the wave, but in the case of the KdV equation, this assumption is relaxed to allow for a more accurate description of the wave behavior.

If we were to only introduce weakly nonlinear effects without relaxing the shallow water approximation, we would not obtain the KdV equation. This is because the shallow water approximation assumes that the wave is still linear, which is not the case for the KdV equation.

I hope this helps clarify your understanding of the origins of the KdV equation. Keep exploring and asking questions!
 
  • #3


Yes, it is correct to say that the KdV equation originates from relaxing both the small amplitude wave and shallow water approximations. These two approximations are necessary to obtain the KdV equation, as they balance each other and result in weakly nonlinear behavior. If only one of these approximations is relaxed, then the resulting equation will not be the KdV equation. This is because the KdV equation represents a specific balance between the nonlinear and dispersive effects in a wave, and this balance can only be achieved when both approximations are relaxed.
 

Related to Shallow water and small amplitude wave?

1. What is considered shallow water in the context of wave dynamics?

Shallow water is typically defined as water with a depth less than half of the wavelength of the wave. In other words, the depth of the water is significantly smaller than the distance between the crest and trough of the wave.

2. What is the significance of amplitude in shallow water waves?

The amplitude of a shallow water wave refers to the maximum displacement of the water surface from its undisturbed position. In shallow water waves, the amplitude determines the energy of the wave and how it will interact with the sea floor and other obstacles.

3. How does the speed of shallow water waves compare to deep water waves?

In general, shallow water waves travel at a slower speed than deep water waves. This is due to the fact that the depth of the water affects the wave's wavelength, which in turn affects its speed. Shallow water waves also experience more drag and friction from the sea floor, further slowing their speed.

4. Can small amplitude waves still cause significant damage?

While small amplitude waves may not appear as threatening as larger waves, they can still cause significant damage in shallow water environments. This is because their energy is concentrated in a smaller area, making them more powerful. Additionally, small amplitude waves can build up and combine with other waves, creating larger and more destructive waves.

5. How do shallow water and small amplitude waves impact coastal areas?

Shallow water and small amplitude waves play a significant role in shaping coastal areas. They can cause erosion, deposition, and changes in the shape of the shoreline. These waves also affect the movement of sediment, which can impact the stability of beaches and coastal structures.

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