kelly0303 said:
Another issue I forgot to mention: theoretically I expect the cavity linewidth to be ~30 kHz. However, when scanning the cavity, and looking at individual peaks, the linewidth seems to be almost 1 MHz (I estimated this by eye). Of course part of this is also the exponential decay of each peak, so I am not sure how much is the true linewidth and how much is the exponential decay, but either way it seems much larger than expected, even if the cavity seems quite well aligned.
This is very suspicious. If I were you, I would spend some time to confirm your linewidth measurement before anything else. A broader-than-expected linewidth could very likely mean that you have dirt on your cavity mirrors. Dirt scatters light from the cavity mode into random, uncoupled modes, so it behaves similarly to excess transmission loss (increases linewidth) except that the lost power doesn't actually transmit through the cavity (so your transmission contrast is lower than if you just had less reflective mirrors). Dirt also creates noise when it gets really bad (I couldn't give you a number, it's just from my experience). In my case, the cavity I work on (>200000 finesse when clean) loses about a factor of 2 in finesse for every week or so it spends out of vacuum. Because your finesse is much lower, yours should be more forgiving.
To put some rough numbers on this: If your beam is 1mm in diameter when it reflects off each mirror and you have a spec of dust that is 10 microns in radius on one your mirrors, then this spec of dust will scatter a fraction of your intracavity power equal to ##\frac{\pi \times (10\mathrm{\mu m})^2}{\pi \times (0.5\mathrm{mm})^2} = \frac{1}{2500}##. In other words, your finesse will be limited to 2500. For context, a human hair is usually 50-100 microns thick. A 10 micron radius particle ought to be clearly visible on a benchtop microscope at the high magnification settings, so you could try looking at your cavity mirrors under a microscope.
I don't have any experience working on cavities that aren't in vacuum and with similar finesse to yours, so I couldn't tell you how concerned you should be. Maybe someone else on the forums has?
Also, I'm confused by your estimated linewidth. If your cavity linewidth is 30kHz (when clean) and your finesse is 10,000, then your FSR ought to be 3GHz. If that's true, then your total cavity path length should be 10cm, but it looks waaay longer in the pictures in post #11?
kelly0303 said:
It is actually quite difficult to estimate the magnitude of the error signal. It usually kinda stays still, and then it suddenly makes huge jumps up and down (to the limits of the voltage it can go to), then stays stable a bit more and so on (I am talking about the voltage going from the servo to the laser). It is difficult to say if it is more stable with higher gain than lower gain, given that it does this behavior in either case. Also, I am attaching again the signal I see when I am locked. The ramp is 500 Hz, so each horizontal yellow line is 1ms, so these peaks seems to come and go every 50 μs or so. This is definitely not consistent with the behavior of the error signal (it definitely stays almost still for much longer than that), or with the oscillations of the peaks during ramping, which is on the order of a few Hz. I have no idea how these peaks are created during lock.
Do you know the modulation port's scaling factor for your diode laser? Multiply that number by 20V (output voltage range of the D2-125 lockbox) and that's your servo's locking range (but if your laser controller has a smaller input voltage range than the D2-125's +/-10V, use that voltage instead). I would look at your transmission peak while scanning and see what the typical range of frequency noise is. How does that frequency noise compare to the locking range?
Edit: If you do try to look at your mirrors under a microscope, it can be a bit tricky to focus on the surface of the mirror because there shouldn't be anything to focus on when you look at a clean mirror. I usually keep a cheap dirty mirror around of the same thickness as your cavity mirrors, and I focus the microscope on the dirt on the cheap mirror. Then I swap the dirty mirror with the optic I actually want to look at (i.e., your cavity mirror), and it should be pretty nearly focused. Alternatively, if you have a really fancy optical microscope,
dark-field imaging is the way to go! It makes examining optics really, really easy!