Half my house is freezing the other half is hot

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SUMMARY

The forum discussion centers on the heating and cooling issues experienced in a multi-level backsplit house with central air conditioning and heating. The primary concern is the temperature imbalance between the upper and lower flats, exacerbated by a newly installed wall that obstructs air circulation. Participants recommend consulting an HVAC professional to assess the air distribution system, potentially install transfer ducts, and balance airflow through dampers or booster fans. The Nest thermostat is discussed as a basic control unit, with suggestions for additional thermostats to improve temperature regulation across different zones.

PREREQUISITES
  • Understanding of central air conditioning systems
  • Familiarity with HVAC terminology, including air handler units and dampers
  • Knowledge of thermostat functionalities, particularly Nest and multi-zone systems
  • Basic principles of air distribution and temperature balancing in residential settings
NEXT STEPS
  • Research HVAC system evaluation techniques and common issues
  • Learn about the installation and benefits of transfer ducts in air distribution
  • Explore options for duct automatic dampers and their control mechanisms
  • Investigate advanced thermostat features for multi-zone temperature control
USEFUL FOR

This discussion is beneficial for homeowners experiencing temperature imbalances in multi-level residences, HVAC technicians seeking insights on common issues, and anyone interested in optimizing central air conditioning systems for better comfort and efficiency.

  • #31
russ_watters said:
Do you happen to know the capacity? It's probably in the model number on the sticker on the outdoor unit (condensing unit).
Can you deduce anything from this?
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  • #32
DaveC426913 said:
Can you deduce anything from this?
030 in the model number means 30,000 BTU or 2.5 Tons. It's about half the capacity I expected. By comparison I'm in Philadelphia and my 1,500 sq ft townhouse has a 2.5 Ton unit.

Are there areas of the house with no supply vents? You only have one of those outdoor big fan cube thingies condensing units, right?
 
  • #33
russ_watters said:
030 in the model number means 30,000 BTU or 2.5 Tons. It's about half the capacity I expected. By comparison I'm in Philadelphia and my 1,500 sq ft townhouse has a 2.5 Ton unit.
I'm about twice as far north?

russ_watters said:
Are there areas of the house with no supply vents?
I don't think so. Would a basement normally have vents?
russ_watters said:
You only have one of those outdoor big fan cube thingies condensing units, right?
Yes.
 
  • #34
DaveC426913 said:
I'm about twice as far north?
Twice as far as what? You're about 220 mi north of me. Anyway I checked design weather data and your 0.4% design day (it is hotter 0.4% of the time) is 89F whereas mine is 91F. Not that far apart.

For the record, London: 83F, 700 mi north of Philly.
DaveC426913 said:
I don't think so. Would a basement normally have vents?
Finished basements sometimes but not always.

Anyway, if it is overall cool enough so be it.
 
  • #35
russ_watters said:
Twice as far as what?
Play on words (and, I guess, numbers).
 
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  • #36
russ_watters said:
What do people do in the UK for domestic hot water?
A single boiler for CH and water. There are options of a hot water tank or a combi boiler. Only one expensive item and two plumbing circuits. But AC has not been commonly used in UK. A proper Energy policy with home insulation would see things that way, even with climate change.
russ_watters said:
I don't understand what you mean.
Dry = Hot air. Wet = radiators. Two different approaches which seem to be mutually foreign to UK and US. An analogue to the clash of cultures about electricity supply. As usual there are good reasons for either but we all make assumptions about what the other guy does..
DaveC426913 said:
Is it that there isn't enough land, or is it - like here in Canada - that the only land people want is in cities?
Because, for a tiny nation, UK seems remarkably rife with green space.
There, in Canada, you have land, lots of land. Green belt has been jealously guarded and Nimbyism rules in UK. Urban living is popular but folks can't afford their mortgages. It was pointed out, today, that mortgages in the US are usually for long terms at a fixed interest rate. These days, in UK, interest is seldom fixed for more than a very few years. That's another difference between east and west.
 
  • #37
sophiecentaur said:
Dry = Hot air. Wet = radiators. Two different approaches....
Fair enough....we call it "central air" here and it confused me to call it "dry' due to all the water pouring down the drain...
...which seem to be mutually foreign to UK and US. An analogue to the clash of cultures about electricity supply. As usual there are good reasons for either but we all make assumptions about what the other guy does.
Yeah, it's the different requirements/constraints that make most of the difference. The design choices do make sense in context.

But I just realized....
I'm working on an all-electric/zero carbon lab project, and we had a very hard time finding air source hot water boilers. Our major equipment vendor had never sold one in the US and had to lean on their European division for assistance. Even still, product options are very thin and there are many available in Europe/Asia that are not available in North America. And I just realized why: When Northern Europe electrifies, they will easily convert from natural gas and oil boilers to heat pump boilers whereas in the US all our residential and light commercial heat pumps are forced air. We simply don't have anywhere near the market for a heat pump boiler as exists in Europe. Also, ginormous natural gas reserves, so less geopolitical pressure.
 
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  • #38
Can't you just put in a small window AC unit upstairs? Then you can use less central AC on the main floor.
 
  • #39
bob012345 said:
Can't you just put in a small window AC unit upstairs? Then you can use less central AC on the main floor.
Why not just use a fan and some ducting to get warmer air into the cooler rooms? A/C involves yet more electrical power input and, of course, it's expensive to buy.
 
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  • #40
sophiecentaur said:
Why not just use a fan and some ducting to get warmer air into the cooler rooms? A/C involves yet more electrical power input and, of course, it's expensive to buy.
Ceiling fans can mix up the air. There are two settings, one for summer and one for winter. The upper fans could be used to push the hot air down and the lower fans to pull the cool air up.
 
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  • #41
bob012345 said:
Ceiling fans can mix up the air.
I wasn't proposing a ceiling fan. I was thinking in terms of a large diameter, slow, 'extractor fan'. The big ones shift a lot of air (good for smokey kitchens) and are bidirectional. Trunking etc. is always available to fit the popular ones. You could annoy your house sharers by pumping curry / steak aroma into their half.

The logic of the ceiling fan (Punka) is to blow air downwards in summer and upwards in winter - or is it the other way? :wink:
 
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  • #42
To return to the original question in the OP, I think that the comments about the return vent are spot on. Might be worth patching in another return duct on the side without one, or to put a vent between sections to allow crossflow.

Another possibility, though much more complicated, would be some sort of proportioning valves in the ducts to force air at different rates to different areas. The issue I see with that beside the complexity is the controls. You'd basically have to reverse the proportions as the seasons change, i.e. more flow downstairs in the winter for heating, more flow upstairs in the summer for cooling.
 
  • #43
Flyboy said:
To return to the original question in the OP, I think that the comments about the return vent are spot on. Might be worth patching in another return duct on the side without one, or to put a vent between sections to allow crossflow.
You recently retired?
 

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