How Can I Permanently Remove Spider Mites from My Rose Bush?

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Discussion Overview

The discussion revolves around methods to permanently remove spider mites from a rose bush, focusing on various treatments and experiences shared by participants. The context includes personal accounts of pest control efforts, the effectiveness of different products, and concerns about the health of the plant.

Discussion Character

  • Exploratory
  • Technical explanation
  • Debate/contested

Main Points Raised

  • One participant describes their struggle with spider mites on a rose bush, detailing unsuccessful attempts to wash them off and using insecticide.
  • Another participant suggests using canola oil to smother the mites, citing success with apple trees but expressing uncertainty about its safety for roses.
  • A different participant recommends a specific Bayer product for systemic treatment, sharing their positive experience with it on a similar rose bush.
  • One participant proposes a thorough cleaning of the plant, including rinsing the roots and using a spider mite killer, while emphasizing the importance of using new soil and a new pot.
  • Concerns are raised about the potential for spider mites to reside in the soil, which may contribute to recurring infestations.
  • Some participants discuss the possibility of losing all leaves on the infected plant, sharing experiences with other rose bushes that had varying degrees of leaf loss.
  • Questions arise about the practicality of removing infected leaves versus washing each one, with suggestions to use mite killer on the stems and roots instead.
  • There is a mention of a hose sprayer, with some participants expressing confusion about its use in an apartment setting without access to a hose.

Areas of Agreement / Disagreement

Participants express a range of opinions on effective treatments for spider mites, with no consensus on the best approach. Some advocate for chemical treatments, while others suggest more natural methods. The discussion remains unresolved regarding the most effective strategy for permanently eliminating the pests.

Contextual Notes

Participants note the potential for spider mites to inhabit potting soil, which may complicate treatment efforts. There are also varying experiences with different rose bushes, leading to uncertainty about the effectiveness of suggested methods.

  • #31
turbo brought up dry, hot air. That could be the culprit. Make sure that there is no powdery mildew on the leaves.
 
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  • #32
Ok, I moved it away from the heater, I can't see any powdery mildew of any sort.

Thanks again for your help guys (and gals)
 
Last edited:
  • #33
NeoDevin said:
Ok, I moved it away from the heater, I can't see any powdery mildew of any sort.
Good. See if there if the curling stops and check eery day for mites. Looks like it's really sending out some new growth!
 
  • #34
Evo said:
Good. See if there if the curling stops and check eery day for mites. Looks like it's really sending out some new growth!

It's been mite free for a couple weeks now, that growth is mostly in the last week, and one of the other branches is just starting to get some growth on it.
 
  • #35
Are the leaves sprouting already damaged, or did it happen after they looked normal for a while? It could be that the mites had managed to damage the buds before you got rid of them, and the emerging leaves are just damaged from that, and the next round to sprout might be okay.

I didn't even think of the position of the heater. That makes sense too.
 
  • #36
Moonbear said:
Are the leaves sprouting already damaged, or did it happen after they looked normal for a while?

They're coming out really faded, but otherwise normal. Then they started curling and blackening. I moved it away from the heater, hopefully that will help.
 
  • #37
NeoDevin said:
They're coming out really faded, but otherwise normal. Then they started curling and blackening. I moved it away from the heater, hopefully that will help.
Fingers crossed. New leaves are delicate and need water/nutrients in their veins to develop. The curled, dessicated edges may be the plant's response to too-rapid water loss. I lost a really pretty grape ivy in college due to (I believe) the fact that the only sunny place big enough for the pot was right over the heater on the window sill. The ivy was fine there until the outside weather got cold and the heater ran a lot. When I got my own apartment (dorms were mandatory for freshmen then), I got another cutting from my mother's plant and it thrived.

Pale new leaves are often a sign of nitrogen deficiency. Note that the soil may not actually be deficient in nitrogen - incorrect pH can inhibit nitrogen uptake even when the nutrient balance is OK. For less than $20, you can get a soils test kit at any good garden shop that let's you test for all major nutrients and pH, and you'll get enough reagent capsules to let you do about a dozen tests of each. "Rapitest" is the trade name my kit was sold under - there are probably a lot more.
 
  • #38
My rose bush has a new problem (it's not doing well in the appartment since winder came along). The stalks are turning brown and drying out, they seem to be drying out from the bottom up. Any ideas?

On the bright side though, the smaller one is doing well.
 

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