I have a question on a simple 555 buzzer circuit.

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The discussion focuses on building a 555 timer circuit in astable mode to drive a Panasonic 24C411 piezo transducer. The 555 timer can output between 100mA and 200mA at 9V, which is sufficient for the transducer's 2mA requirement. Users suggest experimenting with resistor values and coupling capacitors, specifically a 100uF electrolytic capacitor, to optimize sound output. Testing methods include using a multimeter to check for oscillation and connecting an LED to visualize the output signal.

PREREQUISITES
  • Understanding of 555 timer operation in astable mode
  • Familiarity with piezo transducers, specifically the Panasonic 24C411
  • Basic knowledge of capacitors and their role in audio circuits
  • Experience with multimeters for measuring DC and AC voltages
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  • Learn about 555 timer circuit configurations and applications
  • Research the characteristics and specifications of piezo transducers
  • Study the use of coupling capacitors in audio applications
  • Explore multimeter usage for testing low-frequency AC signals
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Electronics enthusiasts, hobbyists building audio circuits, and anyone troubleshooting 555 timer applications will benefit from this discussion.

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I plan to take a 555, wire it up into astable operation to make a square wave, and hook the output up to a transducer. It's Panasonic's 24C411, with a rated voltage of 15V peak-to-peak and a maximum current of 2mA. Apparently, the maximum output current of the 555 is 200mA, and a 9V can put out between 100mA and 200mA at the highest. I'd like to simply use a resistor, but would that just draw too much of the voltage?

On the other hand, perhaps it would be better to use a speaker. I just remembered that I have a small one lying around.
 
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The Panasonic 24C411 appears to be a piezo, which means it's mostly capacitive, so you probably don't need a limit resistor at all. But you could experiment to see how loud things get with, say, 100 ohms...
 
Thank you! That's what I thought at first, but then the mention of a current limit made me unsure. I've got a potentiometer, so I can try it gradually, too.
 
I tried it with a 100 ohm resistor and then with nothing, to no avail either time. Then I tried with an 8 ohm speaker, and it made a small pip upon being connected and then again upon being disconnected, as if it were high all the time. I wish I had an oscilloscope so I could tell if that's actually the case. For the time being, what do you think?
 
Try coupling to the speaker via an electrolytic capacitor, say 100uF, with its + terminal going to the 555's output. A 25V or higher rating will be fine.

To test whether the 555 circuit is actually oscillating, you could temporarily connect a larger capacitor across its timing capacitor, making the period quite long, then power a LED from the output (in series with a 4.7k resistor) to see whether the LED blinks.
 
Also as a 555 no-oscillate test you could check the output voltage with both DC and AC settings on a multimeter to see if there is any difference. Zero AC volts and your one-click speaker would indicated that the chip is not oscillating...
 
I have a very rudimentary multimeter; it won't check AC voltages this low. I considered that the 555 might be busted by static, so I tried with a Wein bridge oscillator - no good there either. However, I know for a fact that the LM741 I'm using is working. That's only supposed to put out 25 mA - maybe that's not enough.

I like NascentOxygen's idea with the LED - unfortunately, I'm just starting with electronics and actually don't have any. I'll keep trying, but I really don't know what's wrong...
 
So the coupling capacitor gave silence?
 
You can use your DC meter instead of an LED for the NOx long-period test. You can also use the DC setting to "look at" a higher frequency AC, especially one that swings between 0 and +V, because it will try to average the signal and thus show a lower than +V reading -- if there is any oscillator activity.

555's are not very static sensitive, although you may destroy them by reversing the supply lines. I don't remember offhand if I've ever outright killed any while putzing around with them. I would double check that you have everything connected like this (where you can use your meter -- to + or - -- instead of the LED):
http://static.electro-tech-online.com/imgcache/8016-555schematic.gif

And I would investigate getting a good multi-meter, even a $10 one should have some low voltage AC facility...

Also, don't give up hope. Things will (suddenly) start to work (for no apparent reason)!
 

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