Measuring surface waves using the a pressure sensor?

In summary, the pressure in the water has a hydrostatic part -ρgz (z<0 if under water) and a dynamic part δΦ/δt, where Φ is the velocity potential. The kinematic part 0.5ρv2 is approximated away. The total pressure is therefore P=-ρgz+δΦ/δt. This assumes a constant level for the surface. To solve the free surface we require that they cancel at the surface, essentially solving the free surface as η=(δΦ/δt)/(ρg), which will be a sine wave. By solving Φ we also know that the dynamic pressure δΦ/
  • #1
tmpst
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Not sure if this is an engineering or physics question, but here it goes:

I'm trying to wrap my head around the pressure field caused by waves. I'll recap to so anyone can check if I have made any incorrect assumptions:

If we ignore atmospheric pressure, the pressure in the water has a hydrostatic part -ρgz (z<0 if under water) and a dynamic part δΦ/δt, where Φ is the velocity potential. The kinematic part 0.5ρv2 is approximated away.

The total pressure is therefore P=-ρgz+δΦ/δt. This assumes a constant level for the surface. To solve the free surface we require that they cancel at the surface, essentially solving the free surface as η=(δΦ/δt)/(ρg), which will be a sine wave.

By solving Φ we also know that the dynamic pressure δΦ/δt is attenuated at a rate K=cosh(z(k+h))/cosh(kh), where h is the total water depth, k=2π/λ is the wave number and h<z<0 is the depth we are calculating the pressure.

So here is the thing I am having problem with: The hydrostatic pressure is now fluctuating because of the elevation changes in the free surface. At the surface these fluctuations are equal to the fluctuations in the dynamic pressure (caused by the variations in the horizontal velocity, right?). If we now measure the pressure at e.g. 20 m depth, we will measure a fluctuating hydrostatic pressure and an attenuated dynamic pressure. The fluctuations in the dynamic pressure will be smaller than the fluctuations in the hydrostatic pressure (or equal in shallow water). I have understood that when wanting to measure waves the pressure readings are compensated by the factor K=cosh(z(k+h))/cosh(kh) to "move back" to the surface and solve the surface. However, isn't a major part of both the measured absolute pressure and the measured fluctuations from the hydrostatic part, which is not attenuated no matter how deep we go?

E.g the total measured pressure is the fluctuating hydrostatic part Ph=-ρgz+ρgη and the dynamic part which is equal to the fluctuations in the hydrostatic part, but attenuated Pd=Kρgη. Total pressure is therefore P=Ph+Pd=(K+1)ρgη-zρg. Do we just enter K and solve for η, or is there any way to measure just the dynamic part Pd at any depth by measuring the varying horizontal flow? If we have to measure the total pressure, why can't we just solve η from the fluctuations in the hydrostatic part even if we would be deep enough that K~0 (i.e. over λ/s deep)? Sure they are small in comparison to the total pressure, but the dynamic part is even smaller?

What am I missing here? Can anyone please help?
 
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  • #3
The theory I outlined is the linear theory, not the Stokes' theory. Also, the only time pressure is mentioned in the article is when the dynamic boundary condition is discussed. Since it is similar as in the linear theory, it does not deepen my understanding. If I missed something, could you point out which part of the article sheds light on my problem?
 
  • #4
Input terminated .
 

1. How does a pressure sensor measure surface waves?

A pressure sensor measures surface waves by detecting changes in the pressure of the medium through which the wave is passing. When a surface wave passes through the medium, it creates fluctuations in the pressure, which can be detected by the sensor. This data is then used to calculate the characteristics of the surface wave, such as its amplitude and frequency.

2. What is the advantage of using a pressure sensor to measure surface waves?

The advantage of using a pressure sensor to measure surface waves is that it provides a non-intrusive and non-destructive method of measurement. It does not require any physical contact with the surface and does not alter the properties of the wave being measured. This makes it a versatile and accurate tool for studying surface waves in various environments.

3. Can a pressure sensor measure different types of surface waves?

Yes, a pressure sensor can measure different types of surface waves, such as Rayleigh waves, Love waves, and interface waves. This is because all of these waves cause changes in pressure as they travel through a medium, which can be detected by the sensor. However, the sensitivity and accuracy of the sensor may vary for different types of waves.

4. How is the data from a pressure sensor analyzed to determine the characteristics of surface waves?

The data from a pressure sensor is analyzed using mathematical algorithms and signal processing techniques. These methods help to identify the changes in pressure caused by the surface wave and extract the relevant parameters, such as amplitude, frequency, and wavelength. The data can also be plotted on a graph to visualize the characteristics of the surface wave.

5. What are the potential applications of measuring surface waves using a pressure sensor?

Measuring surface waves using a pressure sensor has various applications in geophysics, seismology, oceanography, and civil engineering. It can be used to study the properties of different types of surface waves and their effects on structures and environments. This information can be used to improve earthquake prediction and mitigation strategies, as well as to monitor and manage coastal erosion and sediment transport.

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