Interesting problem.
If you separate the water from your probe by an insulator, than the insulator may act as the dielectric, and water (having a very high dielectric and some conductivity) would be seen as a varying surface on the outside of the insulator.
A simple embodiment of this may be a easily made from a piece of wire-wrap wire that is bent into a hair-pin shape, such that the inner conductor is never exposed to the water. The insulation is very thin, which helps by increasing the capacitance per unit length.
The difficulty I perceive is that it would tend to give false readings based on any water that wicked up along the outside. Thus, if the sensor built up contaminates, adhesion of water would be more of an issue.
To offset this, you could use a higher excitation frequency when measuring the capacitance. Since the impedance associated with the capacitance goes down with frequency, you may find that this somewhat overcomes the effect of the conductivity of the water that wicks up the probe wall.
It escapes me at the moment, but there is an old NASA circuit, which may be used to measure capacitance at a few MHz. It uses a 4 diode bridge, a reference capacitor and unknown capacitor, and is simply driven by a square wave through two large value capacitors (i.e. .1uF). A pair of lark value resistors (i.e. 470k) sample the DC difference that builds between the .1uF capacitors, and that represents the delta between the reference and test capacitance.