Tom Rauji
- 45
- 6
jack action said:I have no experience in tuning a suspension for drag race cars, but I'll give my opinion anyway.
How I explain this is as follow:
You rear end lifts up because it has more than 100% anti-squat. By tightening the rebound on your shocks, you slowed down the process. But the front end stayed the same and lift the same way, at the same pace. So, this must lead to a backward rake of the body (compared to the original setting), thus increasing the angle ##\theta##. This leads to more anti-squat -> higher rear lift (the shocks slow down the process but they don't change the end effect) -> higher ##cg## -> higher weight transfer -> front wheel goes off the ground.
It's easy to get this confused.
The rebound is the collapse. The extension is the hit when in separation. I left the extension at my normal levels that are on the edge of distorting the sidewall. I only adjusted the rebound to control the upward tire bounce. This would keep the back higher longer, not lower. This is "normal" group opinion when running a real stiff sidewall tire like a radial tire. The shock manufacturer who made the radial valved shocks suggested half on extension and near full on rebound.
I would bet that if you tighten the front shock rebound as well, it would slow down the front lift too and once in synch with the rear, the body rake would stay as it was originally while the entire car lifts (the process would only be slower).
I didn't have dual adjustable on the front, but the fronts were set slow. This adds the front tire and suspension weight and whatever little bit the inertia helps to slow down rise. It really won't do much after one second or so because by then it has extended to the front travel limiters and all the weight is just hanging there solid.It hangs the weight there for about 200 feet (under 3 seconds) until the front settles and the tires start kissing the track..
I heard this reasoning of raising the rear end to «plant the tire». What people think it does is that the moment caused by the thrust force (##Th##) is «adding» a force to the ground. It does not. It cannot do that. The only thing it can do is create motion for the frame, i.e. raising it. The normal force (##N##) is only influenced by the weight and weight distribution of the car and the weight transfer. In any case, it will never exceed the total weight of the car (when the front wheels are off the ground, and only in that case).
I have not quantified this, I hate facts without numbers, but getting a number is on my bucket list. Certainly there is some amount of inertia involved in this that will help hit the tire. I'll post a slow mo video of an earlier launch while I was setting up bar positions.
The «added» force can only come from the fact that the ##cg## height is increased with a higher rear end, thus increasing the weight transfer.
There is a lot of initial slap there before the body can lift.
I hear that, too.It's like using softer front springs to «plant the rear tires». Most people think it releases some extra energy that magically transfer to the rear end. It does not. The only thing it does is lifting your front end higher as the weight transfer begins and thus it raises the ##cg## height more than with stiff springs, leading to more weight transfer.
Of course it does not store more energy. The car weighs what it weighs. What it did in my old cars from the 1960s-1980's was increase the extension distance where the spring was contributing and allowing lift. Now I have the opposite problem. I want to keep the front down after a few hundred feet so I can still steer. Noty steering at 100 MPH can be bad, as can air getting under the car.