US 2-phase conversion to EU one phase

[dabnug]

@Guineafowl I get that everyone has told me how to hook up a machine that is manufactured for the US power grid. Except my manufacture is telling me this is wrong. So my line of questions is to educate myself so that I am confident that they are one in the same.

@Asymptotic Attached is the schematic they provided.

 

[Asymptotic]

@Guineafowl I get that everyone has told me how to hook up a machine that is manufactured for the US power grid. Except my manufacture is telling me this is wrong. So my line of questions is to educate myself so that I am confident that they are one in the same.

@Asymptotic Attached is the schematic they provided.

The servo drive for motor M1 is a Schneider Electric model LXM23DU10M3X.

https://www.schneider-electric.com/...s&filter=product_parent_category_id-166406748

The input voltage specification for it when wired for single phase is 220 V nominal with a range from 200V to 255V. It can't be wired for 120V operation.

On the print, the drive is connected to "L1" and "N". In this case, "N" isn't neutral - the center tap on a 230V transformer in a US split single phase system - but is rather the other hot lead "L2".

 

[dabnug]

https://www.schneider-electric.com/...s&filter=product_parent_category_id-166406748

The input voltage specification for it when wired for single phase is 220 V nominal with a range from 200V to 255V. It can't be wired for 120V operation.

On the print, the drive is connected to "L1" and "N". In this case, "N" isn't neutral - the center tap on a 230V transformer in a US split single phase system - but is rather the other hot lead "L2".
[/QUOTE]

ok, but this device is designed to operate with the US grid 220v per the spec. So for the input to actually be 220v, you would need to have both L1 and L2 connected, AND a neutral? because just L1 and Neutral would only be 120v?

 

[Guineafowl]

@Guineafowl I get that everyone has told me how to hook up a machine that is manufactured for the US power grid. Except my manufacture is telling me this is wrong. So my line of questions is to educate myself so that I am confident that they are one in the same

You’re absolutely right to check and double-check.

References to the machine “needing a dedicated neutral” aren’t quite accurate and may be something to do with translation. Perhaps they want to be sure you don’t involve the US centre-tap neutral in anything.

 

[Guineafowl]

ok, but this device is designed to operate with the US grid 220v per the spec. So for the input to actually be 220v, you would need to have both L1 and L2 connected, AND a neutral? because just L1 and Neutral would only be 120v?

No, just L1 and L2. Leave the neutral out.

 

[Asymptotic]

https://www.schneider-electric.com/...s&filter=product_parent_category_id-166406748

The input voltage specification for it when wired for single phase is 220 V nominal with a range from 200V to 255V. It can't be wired for 120V operation.

On the print, the drive is connected to "L1" and "N". In this case, "N" isn't neutral - the center tap on a 230V transformer in a US split single phase system - but is rather the other hot lead "L2".

ok, but this device is designed to operate with the US grid 220v per the spec. So for the input to actually be 220v, you would need to have both L1 and L2 connected, AND a neutral? because just L1 and Neutral would only be 120v?

What the manufacturer's print shows as "N" isn't neutral. It is "L2".
Nothing on these prints use 120V so far as I can see.

 

[Asymptotic]

References to the machine “needing a dedicated neutral” aren’t quite accurate and may be something to do with translation. Perhaps they want to be sure you don’t involve the US centre-tap neutral in anything.

This is my suspicion as well.

 

[Guineafowl]

There is no sensible way of obtaining a neutral like a Chinese/EU system in your country

Having thought about this, I realized you could use a suitably rated step-up autotransformer to achieve this. Still not necessary, though, and potentially hard to find.

How are you getting on?

 

[dabnug]

I got some electricians that specialize in equipment wiring to come and take a look. After inspecting the wiring and various transformers/power converters they said plug it in. The factory is wrong. Plugged it in and it worked. Sorry for dragging this thing out for so long.

I appreciate all the knowledge and detailed explanations along the way.

 

[Averagesupernova]

It is not uncommon for a factory to be 'wrong' simply because they don't want to open a can or worms so-to-speak. It is their right to do so. The company doesn't want the liability of someone from their organization advising a customer wrongly by accident so the policy is: "Wire it only this way!"

 

[Baluncore]

Welcome to PF.
What is the maximum power or current demand of the printer-drier ?

If it is hard-wired to the building, you will need to call your electrician who will do it safely, according to the code. There should be no voltage problem.

If a power cable and a 3 pin plug, to suit a general purpose power outlet is fitted, then it must have sufficient capacity. The protective Earth PE must be connected, and the integrity checked. That again is a job for a qualified electrician.

 

[jrmichler]

This problem NEEDS a qualified electrician to figure it out. We cannot properly solve it via the internet, so the thread is closed.