Water waves accelerate in deeper water.

In summary, the conversation discusses the phenomenon of refraction, specifically in relation to water waves. It is noted that when the wave travels from shallow to deeper water, its speed increases, and when it travels from deeper to shallow water, its speed decreases. The group then questions what causes these changes in speed and how it relates to Newton's Second Law. An analogy is made to a car traveling from tarmac to sand, and it is suggested that viscosity may play a role in the wave speed. Other opinions are welcomed, and it is mentioned that Newton's laws apply to the individual parcels of water within the wave, rather than the wave itself. The possibility of pressure and elastic modulus also affecting wave speed is brought up. The conversation concludes with
  • #1
barfllwyd
1
0
A standard demonstration of refraction is to show water ripples traveling from deeper to shallow water. The frequency remains constant and the wavelength is observed to be shorter and the velocity lower. BUT when the water wave travels from shollow to deeper water the opposite happens and the wave increases its speed. What causes these changes in speed and in particular what's accelerating the wave. What's happened to Newton's Second Law? A common analogy is a car traveling from tarmac to sand which would slow the car but what force would accelerate the car when traveling from sand to tarmac.
How would any explanation then be related to the refraction of light?
 
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  • #2
I think it has something to do with viscosity this being greatest in the shallow water.The wave speed is determined by how quickly the transverse vibrations are carried from one layer to the next and I think this transfer occurs more quickly where viscous forces are smaller.I would like to hear other opinions,it is an interesting question.
 
  • #3
Newtons laws apply to the individual parcels of water that, moving up and down, make up the wave, rather than to the wave itself. (Similarly, you might think a gyroscope behaves anomalously if you treat it as a whole rather than accounting for the dynamics of its constituents. Likewise, we can make a shadow move across a wall faster than the speed of light without violating relativity.)
 
  • #4
Deeper water does have higher pressure. I'm not sure how, but this might have an effect on the elastic modulus, which could account for the higher wave speeds.
 

What is the meaning of "water waves accelerate in deeper water"?

Water waves accelerate in deeper water means that the speed of the wave increases as it moves from shallow to deeper water.

Why do water waves accelerate in deeper water?

Water waves accelerate in deeper water due to the increase in water depth. As the water becomes deeper, there is more space for the wave to move and less resistance from the ocean floor, causing it to gain speed.

What factors affect the acceleration of water waves in deeper water?

The acceleration of water waves in deeper water is affected by the water depth, wave height, wavelength, and bottom topography.

Is the acceleration of water waves in deeper water constant?

No, the acceleration of water waves in deeper water is not constant. It varies depending on the factors mentioned above, as well as external factors such as wind and currents.

How does the acceleration of water waves in deeper water impact the environment?

The acceleration of water waves in deeper water can have a significant impact on coastal erosion, as the faster-moving waves can erode shorelines more quickly. It can also affect marine life and the distribution of sediments on the ocean floor.

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