- #1
hanson
- 319
- 0
Hi all.
I am wondering why when a wave approach a beach, its amplitude will increase and then break?
From my study of nonlinear wave, I know that the velocity of upper paricles of the pulse will travel faster than the lower particles and hence steeping of wave occur. But this does not explain why the AMPLITUDE become large, actually why? Also, the before-said steeping of wave is significant only when approaching a beach? why?
I am wondering why when a wave approach a beach, its amplitude will increase and then break?
From my study of nonlinear wave, I know that the velocity of upper paricles of the pulse will travel faster than the lower particles and hence steeping of wave occur. But this does not explain why the AMPLITUDE become large, actually why? Also, the before-said steeping of wave is significant only when approaching a beach? why?