Determining Speed of Water Waves with Dimensional Analysis

In summary, the speed of water waves can be determined using dimensional analysis by using the gravitational constant 'g' and the wavelength 'λ'. However, this formula only works for deep water and in shallow water, the speed is determined by the depth of the water. This is due to friction from the sea floor, which does not depend on the type of floor. The viscosity of the liquid does not affect the speed of water waves.
  • #1
RedX
970
3
From dimensional analysis, the speed of water waves can be determined as follows:

Only the gravitational constant 'g=10 m/s^2' matters. g has units of L/T^2, so the only way to get a velocity is [tex]\frac{1}{(2\pi)^{\frac{1}{2}}}g^{\frac{1}{2}}*\lambda^{\frac{1}{2}} [/tex] where [tex]\lambda [/tex] is the wavelength.

The problem is that I looked at a small brook which is normally still, but was moving a little from a breeze, and estimated the wavelength (no longer than a foot), and applied the formula. The result is that the speed of the wave comes out a lot faster than what I observed.

So my question is has anyone else observed something similar? Or does this formula only work for big ocean waves?
 
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  • #2
The equation you quoted in an approximation for deep water.

I think it is due to the depth of the water. In shallow water the wave speed is v ~ sqrtgd where d is the depth of water. Depth < lambda/20 in this case.

The formula of all depth is a little more complicated.

See http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/Hbase/watwav.html#hwav
 
  • #3
bm0p700f said:
The equation you quoted in an approximation for deep water.

I think it is due to the depth of the water. In shallow water the wave speed is v ~ sqrtgd where d is the depth of water. Depth < lambda/20 in this case.

The formula of all depth is a little more complicated.

See http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/Hbase/watwav.html#hwav

I guess dimensional analysis can only take you so far.

At least it makes sense that for shallow water, the speed is less. I guess this is due to friction from the floor under the sea. It's interesting that it doesn't depend on the type of floor. For solids, the type of material determines a coefficient of friction. For liquids, the layer touching the ground doesn't move at all (does anyone know why?), and the layers above it have a friction that's the viscosity of the liquid. However, the viscosity doesn't even enter the equation, so maybe it's not because of friction from the floor of the sea!
 

Related to Determining Speed of Water Waves with Dimensional Analysis

1. How do you determine the speed of water waves using dimensional analysis?

To determine the speed of water waves using dimensional analysis, you need to use the equation V = √(gλ/2π), where V is the speed of the wave, g is the acceleration due to gravity, and λ is the wavelength of the wave.

2. What are the units used in dimensional analysis for determining the speed of water waves?

The units used in dimensional analysis for determining the speed of water waves are meters per second (m/s) for speed, meters per second squared (m/s^2) for acceleration due to gravity, and meters (m) for wavelength.

3. Can dimensional analysis be used to determine the speed of water waves in any body of water?

Yes, dimensional analysis can be used to determine the speed of water waves in any body of water as long as the necessary variables (speed, acceleration due to gravity, and wavelength) are known or can be measured.

4. What are the limitations of using dimensional analysis to determine the speed of water waves?

The limitations of using dimensional analysis to determine the speed of water waves include assuming a uniform and idealized wave, as well as neglecting factors such as wind and friction which can affect the actual speed of the wave.

5. How is dimensional analysis used in other areas of science?

Dimensional analysis is commonly used in physics and engineering to analyze and solve problems involving units and dimensions. It is also used in chemistry to determine relationships between different physical quantities. In addition, it is used in many other fields such as biology, economics, and meteorology.

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