Should You Miter the Corner Joints of Wainscot Paneling in a Bathroom Remodel?

[erobz]

I'm remodeling a bathroom (my own). One of the upgrades is Wainscot thin decorative paneling that goes partially up a wall.

Question 1: surely you don't need to miter the corner joints of the panels @ 45° since they are only a 1/4 thick?

Question 2: Is it better to put the paneling against the wall, nail the molding to it and drywall, or put it between moldings, nailed to the drywall; nailing the molding above and below the paneling independently. I'm wondering if the straightness of the cut being done free hand with circular saw will be an issue in the second method, and with the first method the vertical grooves in the paneling will be behind the molding...seeming to make a place for moisture to collect.

Just looking for some tips...before I start nailing!

 

[jack action]

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=beadboard+panel​

 

[erobz]

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=beadboard+panel​

I did watch that video before. I think I missed the part about caulking the joints to make it look seamless, so that will hide flaws in the cutting. As far I can tell they do not worry about mitering the corner joints of the beadboard.

 

[berkeman]

I didn't watch the video. If you don't miter the joints, do you overlap them?

 

[Baluncore]

In some places, wainscoting may be called dado.

The mitre is used to hide the change in board thickness, mounting level, or wall curvature, where two boards meet. It prevents a sharp step in the surface that would cast an uneven shadow, by replacing it with a more consistent pattern.

The two bevels of adjacent boards meet to form a 90° corner that can be painted and so, sealed.
The corner situation does not require bevels since the boards are at an angle there, so you cannot run your hand across the joint and get a splinter. Two bevels at a corner might cancel completely, leave a narrow wedge gap that must be filled with paint, or a leave a hollow, hidden in the wall corner.

 

[jack action]

If you caulk the joints with the moldings, nothing is stopping you from caulking the corners as well. Then it doesn't matter how you treat the corner joints.

 

[erobz]

If you caulk the joints with the moldings, nothing is stopping you from caulking the corners as well. Then it doesn't matter how you treat the corner joints.

My concern was about keeping the “corner line” a single line. With a butt joint the line shifts a bit to the right or left depending on material thickness.

 

[Averagesupernova]

My advice is if you are able to cut a mitre, cut it but leave it just a few degrees closer to square. You will have a gap starting at the corner that closes up towards the surface. This way you should guarantee the panels are closed and in close contact except for a small sliver at the top. A very small and insignificant area that can be caulked. This all assumes your corner is straight and not wavy. Also, use thee 3-4-5 rule to see how square the walls are that form the corner.
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Edit: If the panel varies enough in thickness you may have to sand the thickest part which is probably a very small part.

 

[erobz]

I didn't watch the video. If you don't miter the joints, do you overlap them?

Yeah,I’m thinking they are just done as a butt joint. I think I can see the shift in that picture. The juice of having a “straight line” from all perspectives in the corner is probably not worth the squeeze, which was what I was really trying to figure out based on (others) personal experience.

 

[erobz]

My advice is if you are able to cut a mitre, cut it but leave it just a few degrees closer to square. You will have a gap starting at the corner that closes up towards the surface. This way you should guarantee the panels are closed and in close contact except for a small sliver at the top. A very small and insignificant area that can be caulked. This all assumes your corner is straight and not wavy. Also, use thee 3-4-5 rule to see how square the walls are that form the corner.
-
Edit: If the panel varies enough in thickness you may have to sand the thickest part which is probably a very small part.

Which such thin material I feel like it might be challenging for a novice craftsmen(at best). I have a table saw, but I’ll have to experiment.

 

[Averagesupernova]

Which such thin material I feel like it might be challenging for a novice craftsmen(at best).

Of course only you can determine that and I respect your choice either way.

 

[erobz]

Of course only you can determine that and I respect your choice either way.

Yeah, in the picture I ( believe ) I can see that the corner is slightly shifted, but I don't think that would bother me too much given the potential challenges of mitering them. I'll experiment first to guage effort, before I commit either way. But that's why I thought I better ask, to see whether a skilled craftsmen would go the extra distance. If you were to say ..."meh". I would translate that to a "no"!

 

[Averagesupernova]

Someone who is a die-hard that feels the thin part cannot be reliably mitred would perhaps butt the lower part and mitre the top. With patience it could be done with a rasp and sandpaper. Or perhaps a good belt sander.

 

[erobz]

With patience it could be done with a rasp and sandpaper. Or perhaps a good belt sander.

Thats a point, my mind immediately goes to power tools, some things require more finesse!

 

[BillTre]

I did this several years ago.

I glued the panels to the wall (plaster).
My panels had good edges so they butt joined nicely.
I just put a small (maybe 1/2") molding over where they met in the corner:

I routed the back of the top molding so it would fit flat over the paneling but lie flat on the plaster wall.

 

[erobz]

I did this several years ago.

Holding up well?

I did consider routing the chair rail to cover the saw cut edge of the bead board, maybe the small corner trim is a good idea too.

 

[BillTre]

Holding up well?

I did consider routing the chair rail to cover the saw cut edge of the bead board, maybe the small corner trim is a good idea too.

Yes its holding up well. No pealing and no bubbles.
I used construction glue and applied pressure to the wall using pipe clamps pushing apart against the opposite wall (instead of clamping together). I attribute its holding up well to the good glue job.

 

[Dullard]

You say that you're a novice - maybe I can save you from a common first mistake:

Do not assume that your walls are square, flat, or plumb. 'Perfect' cuts on your tablesaw may result in a horrible 'fit' (particularly at corners). Caulk and moulding can cover a lot, but you'll know... If you have to make 'unsquare' cuts, a circular saw with a guide (a piece of straight lumber, etc.) is a lot easier than a tablesaw.

I once had a house where one had to determine if a thing needed to be 'level' or 'parallel' to the floor, ceiling...). They (obviously) weren't the same thing. Wallpapering a house like that is a real test of a marriage - I miss that wife.

 

[erobz]

You say that you're a novice - maybe I can save you from a common first mistake:

Do not assume that your walls are square, flat, or plumb. 'Perfect' cuts on your tablesaw may result in a horrible 'fit' (particularly at corners). Caulk and moulding can cover a lot, but you'll know... If you have to make 'unsquare' cuts, a circular saw with a guide (a piece of straight lumber, etc.) is a lot easier than a tablesaw.

I once had a house where one had to determine if a thing needed to be 'level' or 'parallel' to the floor, ceiling...). They (obviously) weren't the same thing.

Thanks for the tip.

Wallpapering a house like that is a real test of a marriage - I miss that wife.

 

[BillTre]

You say that you're a novice - maybe I can save you from a common first mistake:

Do not assume that your walls are square, flat, or plumb. 'Perfect' cuts on your tablesaw may result in a horrible 'fit' (particularly at corners). Caulk and moulding can cover a lot, but you'll know... If you have to make 'unsquare' cuts, a circular saw with a guide (a piece of straight lumber, etc.) is a lot easier than a tablesaw.

I once had a house where one had to determine if a thing needed to be 'level' or 'parallel' to the floor, ceiling...). They (obviously) weren't the same thing. Wallpapering a house like that is a real test of a marriage - I miss that wife.

I had to deal with this kind of thing because the floor was uneven. Had to "shape" the bottom of the panel and the floor molding.
To me keeping the wainscoting lines vertical was the primary consideration.