Best PCB pad finish for repeated solder jobs?

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Discussion Overview

The discussion revolves around the best pad finish for a PCB designed for repeated soldering, focusing on the durability of the pads under mechanical and thermal stress. Participants explore various finishes, soldering techniques, and design considerations for a specific experimental setup involving low current measurements.

Discussion Character

  • Exploratory
  • Technical explanation
  • Debate/contested
  • Mathematical reasoning

Main Points Raised

  • One participant inquires whether ENIG or bare copper is better for pads that will undergo repeated soldering, suggesting that other finishes may also be considered.
  • Another participant suggests using plated-through-holes (PTH) to reinforce the copper pads and mentions that solder resist can help maintain pad integrity.
  • Several participants ask for clarification on the intended use of the pads, including whether they will be used for surface mount technology (SMT) or PTH components, and the sizes of the pads and components involved.
  • A participant notes that increasing the thickness of the outer layer copper features could enhance pad robustness.
  • One participant mentions that for mechanical loads, solder pins or rivets are commonly used, although this may not be applicable in all scenarios.
  • Another participant discusses the degradation of the bond between copper and the board due to heat from repeated soldering, suggesting alternatives like bonding pigtail leads to the pads for connection changes.
  • Concerns are raised about the potential damage to the board from thermal cycling and the process of removing solder, with a focus on the implications of using hot solder.

Areas of Agreement / Disagreement

Participants express various concerns and suggestions regarding pad finishes and soldering techniques, but no consensus is reached on the best approach. Multiple competing views remain on the optimal solution for the specific experimental conditions.

Contextual Notes

Participants highlight limitations related to thermal cycling, the potential for damage during solder removal, and the specific conditions under which the PCB will be used, including temperature and pressure considerations.

Who May Find This Useful

This discussion may be of interest to PCB designers, engineers working with soldering techniques, and researchers conducting experiments that involve repeated soldering on PCBs.

ryaamaak
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I'm designing a PCB with large exposed metallic pads for an experiment I'm running. The idea is I'll be able to solder directly and repeatedly onto the pads, so ideally the pads should be able to withstand multiple removals of solder.

Any thoughts on whether ENIG or bare copper would be better for this? Is there another finish I'm missing?
 
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Cant really help but... Perhaps use PTH to "stake" the copper pads to the board? Solder resist also helps keep small pads attached.
 
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Can you say more about what you are intending to solder onto the pads? Is it for SMT devices, or plated-through-holes (PTH) or some combination? How big will the pads be, and how big are the components.

+1 on @CWatters comment about stitching the pads through to pads on the other side of the PCB -- that's very important to help avoid delamination. Also, are you using a Metcal soldering iron (RF heated tip)? They have superior temperature control.

Here are some of the notes from the Fab Drawing for a board that I recently worked on. You could increase the thickness of the outer layer copper features if that would help to make the pads more robust...

upload_2018-6-20_13-53-52.png
 

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For such kind of mechanical loads it's common to use solder pins or rivets.
 
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berkeman said:
Can you say more about what you are intending to solder onto the pads? Is it for SMT devices, or plated-through-holes (PTH) or some combination? How big will the pads be, and how big are the components.

Sorry for the delayed reply. I'm running an experiment involving repeated low current measurements. Right now I'm using gold wire a couple mils thick, and soldering it to a protoboard with wires attached to the instrumentation. It's messy, the connections are noisy, and there are more solder joints than really necessary. In the past, I designed a PCB with exposed copper areas for cryostat measurements--the wires were attached to the exposed copper using cold solder or silver paint rather than heat. In this experiment though, I will need to detach and reattach the wires to whatever PCB I design repeatedly, probably using hot solder, so I'm worried about the finish on the exposed pads degrading.

The pads will prob be in the 5mmx10mm range. The board doesn't need to be grounded or anything because I'm just using it to simplify wiring. No components, just gold wire and probably some PTH connectors.
 
The problem that arises with repeated soldering to a PCB pad is the bond between the Copper and the board is degraded by the heat. This is especially true when hand soldering with a soldering iron. Since you are in a cyrostat that is temperature cycled, rivets or anything staked thru th board is pretty much ruled out. One possible approach would be to bond a pigtail lead to the pad and then do your connection changes by soldering to the pigtail. Another idea would be to use temperature controlled hot air soldering directly to the pads, but it's probably cheaper/easier/safer to use the pigtails if you can.

Please keep us updated as to what works best.

Cheers,
Tom
 
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Tom.G said:
The problem that arises with repeated soldering to a PCB pad is the bond between the Copper and the board is degraded by the heat. This is especially true when hand soldering with a soldering iron. Since you are in a cyrostat that is temperature cycled, rivets or anything staked thru th board is pretty much ruled out. One possible approach would be to bond a pigtail lead to the pad and then do your connection changes by soldering to the pigtail. Another idea would be to use temperature controlled hot air soldering directly to the pads, but it's probably cheaper/easier/safer to use the pigtails if you can.

Please keep us updated as to what works best.

Cheers,
Tom
Thanks for the input! I should have clarified that this board will not be going in a cryostat like the previous board, but instead will only be used at room temperature and at standard air pressure (no vacuum). That being said, I'm still concerned about the thermal cycling with hot solder eventually scorching the board. I'm also worrying that the process of removing solder will damage the board. I'm not worried about anything staked through the board, but I'll consider the pigtail leads as a way to control damage.
 
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