Boost Your Cable TV Signal with Our Reliable Cable Boosters

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The discussion centers on improving cable TV signal quality, particularly for a second-floor setup experiencing pixelation issues. Users debate the necessity of a coax booster, with some asserting that a booster isn't needed for a 20-meter run, while others suggest that an active amplifier might help if the cable is damaged or connections are poor. It is recommended to first check connectors and replace the coax cable if problems persist, particularly since the existing RG-59 may be inadequate. Users emphasize that an effective amplifier requires power and can significantly enhance signal quality, especially when dealing with long runs or poor connections. The conversation concludes with a focus on selecting a high-quality RG-6 cable and an appropriate amplifier to resolve the signal issues.
  • #31
jake jot said:
My tvs are 55" 4K Hdtv hanged in walls. Its so heavy to carry in between floors. Its like this.

https://www.lg.com/levant_en/tvs/lg-55UM7660PVA#none

View attachment 276372

I have changed and switched the splitter too. Later ill try decades old RG-59 wires (removed from house put by previous tenants) kept in boxes in the attic to see if the pixellation would be gone.

Here is some old RG59 coax. Need to get adaptors to connect them and test. I wonder if there are wireless coax transmitter/receivers? Whats the bandwidth of cable tv with 100 channels? Like wifi?

20210117_111055.jpg
 
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  • #32
Coming in late here but in my arrogance I think I can add a bit. HFAC connections are tricky. The key quality at the TV is signal/noise since most devices (I believe) have some amount of amplification and AGC.

Since you say the situation became worse i.e. something changed that suggest one of two possibilities. Reduced signal or increased noise. Here's my checklist on possible causes (anyone chime in if I missed something).

Possible sources of noise are:
  • Noise in the original signal from the provider.
  • Noise occurring at connections due to non-linear behavior (oxide coatings on connectors can cause them to behave differently.. the most extreme case being a spark gap which conducts only after voltage rises above a threshold.)
  • Noise from external EMF leaking in at connectors.
  • Noise from other devices connected to the circuit.
  • Noise from external EMF leaking directly into the cable. (They're shielded but kinks or wear can defeat shielding.)
Possible sources of signal level loss are:
  • Reduced signal from the provider.
  • Degredation of the cables (unlikely, even with cheap cables) [Edit: that is unless... I've seen old cables where water seeped in through cuts in insulation or at connectors and oxidized the shielding. They looked fine until the insulation was stripped off. Look for cuts or connections exposed to moisture/weather.]
  • Signal attenuation at connectors.
  • Signal leaking out at connectors.
  • Line reflections at connectors.
  • Line reflection along cables (at kinks or damaged areas).
  • Diffractive interference due to change of cable geometry. (Can be very frequency specific, signal at one frequency creates a standing wave and your TV happens to be at a node.)
  • Signal loss at other devices connected to the circuit.
I think I've covered most bases. If I were the OP I would first try to remember exactly when the trouble started and query (very politely and non-confrontationally) other residents to see if they have added or upgraded any devices connected to the cable system. This could have added noise, reduced signal, or (less likely but conceivable) caused an odd standing wave issue. The former could be solved by having a filter or attenuator placed on the new device which doesn't affect its performance but removes the problem. I would first try to eliminate other issues.

The less likely but possible geometric issues may possibly be resolved by changing the length of cable to the problematic TV. Try adding a 6ft extension and see if the reception improves. (very unlikely but would be definitive.) Alternatively if you have enough extra cable, cutting of a bit and adding a new connector.

My first course of action would be to inspect the entire run of cable or as much as possible. There may be kinks that over became pronunced enough as the plastic dielectric deformed to cause the problem, or there may be wear spots or cuts at some point where the cable was mounted.

I would next check each connection for oxidation. Try lightly sanding and tinning copper axial connector with a bit of silver solder. Be sure to clean off all flux afterwards.

You could then try to eliminate any incomming noise from connectors. Simply wrap them in aluminum (or aluminium for you non 'mericans) foil one at a time and checking to see if the problem goes away.

Note that if the problem is comming from beyond your apartment then a booster may just boost the noise as well as signal. If the problem is also not from your provider a booster at the main connection may solve it.

Some noise can be harmonics of a different frequency signal leaking into the system and could be eliminated with a band pass filter. Something like that could be comming from a device in your appartment so also try to correlate any new equipment with the timing of the problem's onset.

Other than these you could speak with the provider and see if they could boost or have recently decreased your signal. (I believe they try to keep the signal strengths "just enough" plus a margin to save on power and equipment degredation.) You could also ask them if you could speak directly with one of their technicians who could give you some more direct advice based on their experience.

Hmm... what else? It could be gremlins or other supernatural entities. Get a good mystic for that one. I can't help you.

Final note: My expertise is theoretical physics and not cable tech. I'm thinking in general terms and have no real experience to weigh the probabilities of these various cases. I hope my late post has not been too redundant from earlier advice and proves helpful in some way.
 
  • #33
jake jot said:
Whats the bandwidth of cable tv with 100 channels?
A maximum of about 700 MHz. RG59 has more than sufficient bandwidth. There is no sharp cutoff with coax cable.
jambaugh said:
If I were the OP I would first try to remember exactly when the trouble started and query (very politely and non-confrontationally) other residents to see if they have added or upgraded any devices connected to the cable system.
It may be that one of the neighbours has plugged in a booster amplifier, that is being overdriven and oscillating, causing the pixelation on the problem channel.
 
  • #34
jambaugh said:
Coming in late here but in my arrogance I think I can add a bit. HFAC connections are tricky. The key quality at the TV is signal/noise since most devices (I believe) have some amount of amplification and AGC.

Since you say the situation became worse i.e. something changed that suggest one of two possibilities. Reduced signal or increased noise. Here's my checklist on possible causes (anyone chime in if I missed something).

Possible sources of noise are:
  • Noise in the original signal from the provider.
  • Noise occurring at connections due to non-linear behavior (oxide coatings on connectors can cause them to behave differently.. the most extreme case being a spark gap which conducts only after voltage rises above a threshold.)
  • Noise from external EMF leaking in at connectors.
  • Noise from other devices connected to the circuit.
  • Noise from external EMF leaking directly into the cable. (They're shielded but kinks or wear can defeat shielding.)
Possible sources of signal level loss are:
  • Reduced signal from the provider.
  • Degredation of the cables (unlikely, even with cheap cables) [Edit: that is unless... I've seen old cables where water seeped in through cuts in insulation or at connectors and oxidized the shielding. They looked fine until the insulation was stripped off. Look for cuts or connections exposed to moisture/weather.]
  • Signal attenuation at connectors.
  • Signal leaking out at connectors.
  • Line reflections at connectors.
  • Line reflection along cables (at kinks or damaged areas).
  • Diffractive interference due to change of cable geometry. (Can be very frequency specific, signal at one frequency creates a standing wave and your TV happens to be at a node.)
  • Signal loss at other devices connected to the circuit.
I think I've covered most bases. If I were the OP I would first try to remember exactly when the trouble started and query (very politely and non-confrontationally) other residents to see if they have added or upgraded any devices connected to the cable system. This could have added noise, reduced signal, or (less likely but conceivable) caused an odd standing wave issue. The former could be solved by having a filter or attenuator placed on the new device which doesn't affect its performance but removes the problem. I would first try to eliminate other issues.

The less likely but possible geometric issues may possibly be resolved by changing the length of cable to the problematic TV. Try adding a 6ft extension and see if the reception improves. (very unlikely but would be definitive.) Alternatively if you have enough extra cable, cutting of a bit and adding a new connector.

My first course of action would be to inspect the entire run of cable or as much as possible. There may be kinks that over became pronunced enough as the plastic dielectric deformed to cause the problem, or there may be wear spots or cuts at some point where the cable was mounted.

I would next check each connection for oxidation. Try lightly sanding and tinning copper axial connector with a bit of silver solder. Be sure to clean off all flux afterwards.

You could then try to eliminate any incomming noise from connectors. Simply wrap them in aluminum (or aluminium for you non 'mericans) foil one at a time and checking to see if the problem goes away.

Note that if the problem is comming from beyond your apartment then a booster may just boost the noise as well as signal. If the problem is also not from your provider a booster at the main connection may solve it.

Some noise can be harmonics of a different frequency signal leaking into the system and could be eliminated with a band pass filter. Something like that could be comming from a device in your appartment so also try to correlate any new equipment with the timing of the problem's onset.

Other than these you could speak with the provider and see if they could boost or have recently decreased your signal. (I believe they try to keep the signal strengths "just enough" plus a margin to save on power and equipment degredation.) You could also ask them if you could speak directly with one of their technicians who could give you some more direct advice based on their experience.

Hmm... what else? It could be gremlins or other supernatural entities. Get a good mystic for that one. I can't help you.

Final note: My expertise is theoretical physics and not cable tech. I'm thinking in general terms and have no real experience to weigh the probabilities of these various cases. I hope my late post has not been too redundant from earlier advice and proves helpful in some way.

Thanks for your incredible insights. I am guessing the problem is the cooper at center. I kept bending them over the years i think it has already some bending fracture. Also with the grounding external braids of the coax. I wonder if is just used for grounding or return signals. When i just inserted the cooper. There was no signal and even with some fine ground braids connecting it to f connector. Anyway ill just replace the whole 20 meter cable with RG6. I think it should solve it. Many thanks guys for the assistance. I need to know though how exactly the isolator work inside (in my earlier message to Tom G).
 
  • #35
jake jot said:
(I noticed that with the isolator, the pixellation is worse. I couldn't find any schematic of the isolator. Is there something like isolation transformer inside? Is the current stop from flowing and coupling via magnetic field, how does it work?
I do not know, I have never had one apart. If you find out, please let us know.
jambaugh said:
Try adding a 6ft extension and see if the reception improves. (very unlikely but would be definitive.)
At 450MHz the wavelength is about 53cm in the coax. For standing wave cancellation, the test length to add or subtract would be either 1/4 wavelength (around 13cm) or 1/2 wavelength (around 26.5cm).

Since only one TV channel is affected, there is either weak signal coming in, outside interference, or cable/connector damage in two or more spots at either 1/4 or 1/2 wavelengths apart. Or unlikely, a bad TV set.

@jake jot, maybe you can borrow a small TV from a friend, relative, or neighbor so you can test. That might be easier than replacing the coax.

In post #31 above, the photo shows that the black coax is heavily damaged; do not bother trying to use that one!

Cheers,
Tom
 
  • #36
Tom.G said:
Amphenol is one of the top coax suppliers, stick with them if you can.
The Amphenol Global Search page, below, that has several entries that my old computer can not talk to is VERY slow to respond. Hopefully you can get more information from them.

INSERT: Just found TFC-10;
created by(?): Times Fiber Communications http://www.timesfiber.com
also made by Amphenol: https://www.amphenol.com/gsearch/ctfc-t10?page=1

The cable you have is 75 Ohm and has a shield layer that is extruded Aluminum, not foil like the indoor ones most folks are used to. As such it is probably a little more sensitive to repeated bending. If outdoors (as it is designed for) it probably should be restrained from flapping in the wind, repeated bending may eventually crack the shield, causing signal loss. (the flapping and bending is speculation on my part, based on the descriptions on the manufacturers website)

tfc shielding.jpg


I wonder why TFC-T10 used extruded aluminum shielding which can break easily. What were they thinking? And why would cable companies prefer it over RG6?? The reason for my pixelization could be partly broken aluminum shielding.

Also it's frustrating the websites don't have have very basic info like how the copper of it compared in size to the center copper of the RG6. The following is the TFC-T10 at left side compared to the RG59 cooper. The RG59 copper is smaller. And it is too loose to fit in the Isolator and even cable box. So I need to buy RG6 online to make it fit and work.

tfc vs rg59.jpg


One site says you can directly connect RG6 to the TFC-T10 with an 'F' male-male connector. Since they are both 75 Ohm you should be good to go.

Is it not a typo? Shouldn't it be 'F' female to female? Because both the TFC-T10 and RG6 are male.

The amplifier you are looking for would be an "Antenna Booster" or a "Distribution Amplifier." Both require power and actually amplify the signal. If you see some that advertise improvement but do NOT require power, they are probably lying.

The Antenna Booster would be the lower cost option and would likely help/hide the problem.

Distribution Amplifiers come in a wide range of capabilities and costs, from \$$ to \$$\$$\$.

Cheers,
Tom
 
  • #37
jake jot said:
Also it's frustrating the websites don't have have very basic info like how the cooper of it compared in size to the center cooper of the RG6
That information is often in the technical datasheet from the manufacturer, but is still often hard to find.
jake jot said:
The RG59 cooper is smaller. And it is too loose to fit in the Isolator and even cable box. So I need to buy RG6 online to make it fit and work.
If the connections are going to indoors and left alone, not moved around, you can put a couple small "S" bends in the enter wire so it will make contact.
jake jot said:
Is it not a typo? Shouldn't it be 'F' female to female? Because both the TFC-T10 and RG6 are male.
Well, Google agrees with you.
However that is one of the crazy wordings in electronics. If you are talking about the plug on the end of your electric toaster, that is Male because the only mating parts are the pins that go into the wall outlet.

If you are talking about a connector that has a shell and one or more conductors, then the sex of the shell is often used. More common, at least in military connectors, is to call them Plug and Receptacle.

Some of this type connector can have contacts that are either Male or Female, in that case the contacts are called Pin and Socket.

Here are two photos of a Receptacle, one with Pins, the other with Sockets.

--
https://www.physicsforums.com/attachments/276384
--
https://www.physicsforums.com/attachments/276385
MS-BoxMount-Pins.png
MS-BoxMount-Socket.png

--

Not sure all the above helps your problem much.

Cheers,
Tom
 

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