Clarification on Shallow Water Wave Equation

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SUMMARY

The speed of shallow water waves is derived using the equation c² = gh, where g represents gravitational acceleration and h is the water depth. This derivation employs Bernoulli's theorem and the continuity equation in a reference frame moving with the wave. The continuity equation relates the wave speed V and the change in speed δV as the water level changes from h to h+a. The final result confirms that V² = gh, establishing a clear relationship between wave speed and water depth.

PREREQUISITES
  • Understanding of Bernoulli's theorem
  • Familiarity with the continuity equation in fluid dynamics
  • Basic knowledge of wave mechanics
  • Concept of wavelength (λ) in relation to shallow water waves
NEXT STEPS
  • Study the applications of Bernoulli's theorem in fluid dynamics
  • Explore the continuity equation in various fluid flow scenarios
  • Investigate the effects of varying water depth on wave speed
  • Learn about wave phenomena in different mediums beyond shallow water
USEFUL FOR

Students and professionals in physics, particularly those focusing on fluid dynamics, oceanography, and wave mechanics will benefit from this discussion.

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I know that we can find the speed of the wave in shallow water by:
c^2 = gh
but how do we derive it?
 
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We derive this using Bernoulli theorem and continuity equation.
In the reference frame which is moving along with the wave:
Bernoulli theorem:
[tex]\frac{V^2}{2}+gh=\frac{(V-\delta V)}{2}+g(h+a)[/tex]
continuity equation:
[tex]Vh=(V-\delta V)(h+a)[/tex]
where [tex]V[/tex] is the speed of the wave, [tex]\delta V[/tex] is a drop of the speed in the water where its level grows from the normal [tex]h[/tex] to [tex]h+a[/tex]
We suppose that [tex]h<\lambda[/tex] where [tex]\lambda[/tex] is a wavelength.
Form the second equation one has
[tex]h \delta V = a V[/tex] (*)
([tex]a \delta V[/tex] is very very small). Then from the fiirst we get [[tex](\delta V)^2[/tex] is also very small, so we ignore it]:
[tex]V \delta V = ga[/tex] and with (*) one has
[tex]V^2=gh[/tex]
 
Last edited:
awesome,
thank you
 

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