Why does the speed of the water wave decreases as depth decreases?

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Discussion Overview

The discussion centers on the phenomenon of water wave speed decreasing as waves approach shallower regions. Participants explore various factors contributing to this behavior, including friction, wave dynamics, and energy dissipation, while seeking a detailed explanation beyond mathematical formulas.

Discussion Character

  • Exploratory
  • Technical explanation
  • Debate/contested

Main Points Raised

  • One participant suggests that the decrease in wave speed is due to frictional forces between water molecules and the seabed.
  • Another participant agrees that friction robs the wave of energy, affecting its height.
  • A participant questions how the transition from orbital to elliptical wave motion contributes to the reduction in speed.
  • Concerns are raised about the complexity of the phenomenon, with references to external resources for further insights.
  • Viscosity is mentioned as a contributing factor, along with the non-linear behavior of waves as they approach shore, leading to energy dissipation through whitecaps.
  • One participant speculates that maintaining frequency while the wave amplitude increases in shallow water might explain the decrease in speed, suggesting a relationship between amplitude, wavelength, and frequency.
  • Another participant expresses uncertainty about the role of friction, proposing that it may not be the primary factor in the reduction of wave speed.

Areas of Agreement / Disagreement

Participants express differing views on the primary causes of the decrease in wave speed, with some attributing it to friction and energy dissipation, while others question the significance of these factors and propose alternative explanations. The discussion remains unresolved with multiple competing perspectives.

Contextual Notes

Participants reference external articles and resources, indicating that their understanding may depend on the definitions and contexts presented in those sources. There is also mention of opposing currents and their effects, which are not fully explored in the discussion.

tlfx1996
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Why does the speed of the water wave decreases when the water wave approaches the shallower region? Is it because of the frictional force between the water molecules and the seabed? I have searched the net but i didn't get any clear answer to this questions. Please explain in details of the phenomenon without solely based on the formula, thx.
 
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Yes. The friction between the water and the sea bed robs the wave of energy so that it cannot raise up as high.
 
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but I still couldn't get a clue how does the change from the orbital movement to the elliptical movement will causes the speed to slow down.
 
That's a complex phenomena..as is evidenced by continued failures to prevent erosion...

but there are some good insights here:

http://web.utk.edu/~cnattras/Physics221Spring2013/modules/m11/Water_waves.htm

More here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_waves#Wave_shoaling_and_refraction

I find this second article strange in that they neglect to mention the effects of opposing currents in the very first section but do properly attribute effects of currents in 'shoaling'. I can tell you from long personal experience that opposing current in shoal AND deep water significantly effects wave heights. In fact, current alone usually causes waves to form.
 
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Viscosity (essentially friction) would certainly play a part. The other issue that immediately comes to mind is that as waves come to shore and grow, they become nonlinear and end up Rollin over and creatin whitecaps. These will dissipate a fair amount of energy.
 
I don't know much about waves, but looking at this GIF from Wikipedia:

220px-Propagation_du_tsunami_en_profondeur_variable.gif


Might it have to do with the fact the wave has to keep the same frequency? I don't know if that's true under certain circumstances. If so, then looking at the GIF it kind of makes sense that the amplitude would rise due to the shallow water. The rise in amplitude would shorten the wavelength, and in order to keep the same frequency, the speed has to slow down.

Don't know if any of what I wrote is true or makes sense...

Edit: Following the Wikipedia article, I reached another article on "wave shoaling". I just skimmed over it, but it seems that the answer would lie somewhere in that term.

I suspect friction is not the prime driver for the reduction in speed...
 

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