Determining the switch rating for a lamp

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Discussion Overview

The discussion revolves around determining the appropriate switch rating for a lamp repair involving a 60 W bulb and a standard North American 125 V outlet. Participants explore the implications of current ratings for switches and troubleshoot issues related to the switch installation.

Discussion Character

  • Technical explanation
  • Debate/contested
  • Experimental/applied

Main Points Raised

  • One participant calculated the current for a 60 W bulb using P = IV, estimating it to be approximately 0.5 A, and purchased a switch rated at 5 A for 125 VAC.
  • Another participant questioned the meaning of "doesn't work," suggesting that if the switch were rated too low, it would catch fire rather than fail to operate.
  • Concerns were raised about the correct wiring of the switch, specifically the importance of connecting the hot lead to the appropriate part of the bulb socket.
  • A participant noted they were using a portion of the switch rated for 3 A @ 250 V instead of 6 A @ 125 V, which may have contributed to the initial failure.
  • There was a suggestion that a switch rated at 0.5 A might be marginally sufficient, with a recommendation to use a switch rated at least twice the steady-state current.
  • Another participant advised considering the potential use of higher wattage bulbs (100 W or 150 W) and calculating the current accordingly to ensure the switch rating is adequate.

Areas of Agreement / Disagreement

Participants express varying opinions on the adequacy of switch ratings and the importance of proper wiring. There is no consensus on the best approach to selecting a switch rating, as some suggest higher ratings while others consider lower ratings acceptable.

Contextual Notes

Participants reference specific ratings and configurations for switches, but there are unresolved questions regarding the implications of using different ratings and the potential for future use of higher wattage bulbs.

mar2194
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I'm in the process of repairing a lamp that I found with a broken switch. I know the lamp mechanism is functioning because I've bypassed the switch and plugged it in and it works fine. I needed to buy a new switch and they all have a current rating. I'm using 1 60 W bulb with a standard North American 125 V outlet. I thought P = IV --> I ≈ .5 A. Using this info I purchased a toggle switch rated at 5 A for 125 VAC (so at least 5 amps of current can flow through it right??) and tried adding it to the lamp. Didn't work! Does anyone know what I might be doing wrong or how to determine the current rating for the switch I'm attempting to add?

Any help is appreciated. I bought the switch at RadioShack if anyone is interested. Thanks!
 
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NVM problem solved; there were 3 connectors for 2 different voltage ratings. I just fiddled with it a little.
 
mar2194 said:
I'm in the process of repairing a lamp that I found with a broken switch. I know the lamp mechanism is functioning because I've bypassed the switch and plugged it in and it works fine. I needed to buy a new switch and they all have a current rating. I'm using 1 60 W bulb with a standard North American 125 V outlet. I thought P = IV --> I ≈ .5 A. Using this info I purchased a toggle switch rated at 5 A for 125 VAC (so at least 5 amps of current can flow through it right??) and tried adding it to the lamp. Didn't work! Does anyone know what I might be doing wrong or how to determine the current rating for the switch I'm attempting to add?

Any help is appreciated. I bought the switch at RadioShack if anyone is interested. Thanks!

What do you mean it doesn't work? It sound like it's rated fine. If it weren't rated high enough, it would catch fire, not "doesn't work".

BTW, you do know that the hot lead for lamps needs to go to the inner button on the bulb socket, right? Not to the outside screw part. That's why lamps in the US use a polarized 2-prong power cord.
 
Ah, glad it works now. Does my comment about the hot/neutral polarity make sense?
 
berkeman said:
Ah, glad it works now. Does my comment about the hot/neutral polarity make sense?

Yah, all I was doing was taking a spliced wire and putting in a switch. When I said it didn't work I just meant that when I flip the switch, nothing happens. I realized I was using the portion of the switch that was rated for 3 amps @ 250 V instead of 6 amps @ 125 V. However, the switch didn't fit the hole so I'm going to buy another one that will be rated at .5 amps. Will that be rated high enough?
 
mar2194 said:
Yah, all I was doing was taking a spliced wire and putting in a switch. When I said it didn't work I just meant that when I flip the switch, nothing happens. I realized I was using the portion of the switch that was rated for 3 amps @ 250 V instead of 6 amps @ 125 V. However, the switch didn't fit the hole so I'm going to buy another one that will be rated at .5 amps. Will that be rated high enough?

That sounds kind of marginal. I'd go with a rating at least 2x or higher than the steady-state current. And be sure to mark the lamp for 60W bulbs maximum or similar.
 
mar2194 said:
... I purchased a toggle switch rated at 5 A for 125 VAC (so at least 5 amps of current can flow through it right??) and tried adding it to the lamp. Didn't work! Does anyone know what I might be doing wrong or how to determine the current rating for the switch I'm attempting to add?
Glad things worked out eventually. Just FYI, at this point I would have used an ohmmeter to test whether the switch is working properly.

mar2194 said:
Yah, all I was doing was taking a spliced wire and putting in a switch. When I said it didn't work I just meant that when I flip the switch, nothing happens. I realized I was using the portion of the switch that was rated for 3 amps @ 250 V instead of 6 amps @ 125 V. However, the switch didn't fit the hole so I'm going to buy another one that will be rated at .5 amps. Will that be rated high enough?
I'll echo what Berkeman said about the 2x rating. Also, any chance you'll use the lamp for a 100 W or 150 W bulb? I would figure out the current at 150 W, and go to twice the current rating of that. So, 1.25A @ 150W, try to get a switch rated for 2.5 Amps. Or if you're absolutely sure 60 W is the maximum you'll use, then 1 Amp.
 

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