Do Water Waves Slow Down and Change Amplitude in Shallow Water?

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SUMMARY

Water waves travel slower in shallow water due to friction and pressure effects as they interact with the seabed. As waves transition from deeper to shallower water, their amplitude increases, leading to the formation of breakers. This phenomenon occurs because the surface part of the wave moves faster than the deeper part, causing a change in direction or refraction. Understanding these dynamics is crucial for predicting wave behavior in coastal environments.

PREREQUISITES
  • Basic understanding of wave mechanics
  • Knowledge of fluid dynamics principles
  • Familiarity with the concept of wave refraction
  • Awareness of coastal processes and their effects on wave behavior
NEXT STEPS
  • Research the principles of wave refraction in coastal environments
  • Study the effects of seabed friction on wave speed
  • Explore the relationship between wave amplitude and water depth
  • Investigate the formation and characteristics of wave breakers
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Marine scientists, coastal engineers, environmental researchers, and anyone interested in the dynamics of water waves and their impact on coastal ecosystems.

truewt
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Hi, just a really simple question I have.

Why do water waves travel slower in shallow water as compared to deeper water?

Also, as the water wave transit from deeper to shallower water, does the amplitude of the water wave change?

Thanks in advance.
 
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The thread does not answer why does waves (standing) move slower in shallower waters..
 
Friction and pressure effects from the rising wave are probably most of it. There is real mass transport in the shallows and the water has to be pushed uphill.
 
This very principle is what causes breakers. Waves moving from deep water to shallow water (such as on a beach) will get slowed down by friction with the bottom. The surface part of the wave gets ahead of the deeper part and you get a breaker.
 
because as the waves enter the shallower water, they change direction (or refract), thus slowing down
 

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