Should Children Have Access to Firearms and Explosives?

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AI Thread Summary
The discussion revolves around the challenges of cutting down a small tree with thick branches and the need for efficient tools. Participants suggest considering an electric chainsaw for safety and ease of use, highlighting that electric models are generally lighter and less dangerous than gas-powered options. Concerns are raised about the risks of using a chainsaw, especially overhead, with many recommending hiring a professional for safety reasons. The conversation touches on the size of the tree and branches, with suggestions for using a hand saw or a reciprocating saw for smaller jobs. Humor is interspersed throughout, with some participants joking about the dangers of DIY tree cutting and the potential for accidents. Ultimately, the consensus leans towards either hiring a professional or using safer, less powerful tools for the task at hand.

Should Evo get a chainsaw?

  • Total voters
    53
  • #51
Gokul43201 said:
Evo, buy yourself a Sawzall (Milwaukee's latest one is a beaut). You'll find more than one use for it. And it'll cut through a 2" branch just by staring at it !
I agree on the reciprocating saw idea. I have one that I used to cut all the old fence posts down at my old house when I was getting it ready for sale. It was cheaper to buy one than to rent one because you don't need something as heavy duty as the ones the rental places will offer. It was easy to get the knack of it. For safest use, get the shortest blade you can for the job you have so it doesn't "whip" on you.
 
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  • #52
For the sawzall approach, you might check out the Navigator at Walmart. It's basically a cheapy sawzall. Tsu has one and loves it.
 
  • #54
Ivan Seeking said:
For the sawzall approach, you might check out the Navigator at Walmart. It's basically a cheapy sawzall. Tsu has one and loves it.

Here's the Milwaukee Sawzall reciprocating saw -
http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category1_27_40027_-1_189346_362

It seems it more of a lumber tool than for tree cutting. It should work OK on branches, but forget the trunk. If the trunk is something like 8-10", then you need at least a 14" chain saw, or a nice heavy axe (double blade :biggrin: ).

Edit: I looked back at post 25 and Evo mentioned 6" trunk. A 10" chainsaw could do it. For that matter, I done a 6" tree with a hatchet. :biggrin:

But probably if one is buying chainsaw for that and other jobs, get at least a 14" saw.

I will be busy this weekend with my 20" inch chain saw on an 18" oak tree that is pretty much dead and heavily damaged from the storms this past winter. I also have to cut up several other trees that have been knocked over by the windstorms from a few weeks ago.
 
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  • #55
Oooops, you're right; you wouldn't want to cut a six inch trunk with a Navigator or a sawzall. They're okay for the smaller stuff...
 
  • #56
Evo dear,

I think you should just get a husband and let HIM do all the sawing and heavy yard work. Not only that, I hear that one of them is also useful to take out the garbage in the evening. So that's an added bonus.

:)

Zz.
 
  • #57
ZapperZ said:
Evo dear,

I think you should just get a husband and let HIM do all the sawing and heavy yard work. Not only that, I hear that one of them is also useful to take out the garbage in the evening. So that's an added bonus.

:)

Zz.
The last time I was married, I had to do all of the household repairs, balance the check book, make appointments, do the yardwork, car maintenance, etc... He did however, as he reminded me when I asked him to move out, that he rolled the trash cart to the curb once a week. :rolleyes:
 
  • #58
Evo said:
The last time I was married, I had to do all of the household repairs, balance the check book, make appointments, do the yardwork, car maintenance, etc... He did however, as he reminded me when I asked him to move out, that he rolled the trash cart to the curb once a week. :rolleyes:

Evo dear, I didn't suggest that you get married.

I was suggesting that maybe you get one of those Rent-A-Husband service that gets a man to come to your house and do all the chores. It's so much more convenient that way, without all the commitments and pre-nuptuals!

:)

Zz.
 
  • #59
Ivan Seeking said:
Oooops, you're right; you wouldn't want to cut a six inch trunk with a Navigator or a sawzall. They're okay for the smaller stuff...
What's the diameter of a split rail fence post? I think those were 4 to 6 inches in diameter that I was cutting with a reciprocating saw. Then again, I think the termites and carpenter ants helped a lot. :rolleyes: It was pretty creepy when the ants would just pour out of the wood when it started vibrating.
 
  • #60
Evo said:
The last time I was married, I had to do all of the household repairs, balance the check book, make appointments, do the yardwork, car maintenance, etc... He did however, as he reminded me when I asked him to move out, that he rolled the trash cart to the curb once a week.
Oh, just get a toy boy and be done with it. :biggrin:
 
  • #61
Moonbear said:
What's the diameter of a split rail fence post? I think those were 4 to 6 inches in diameter that I was cutting with a reciprocating saw. Then again, I think the termites and carpenter ants helped a lot. :rolleyes: It was pretty creepy when the ants would just pour out of the wood when it started vibrating.

I know what you mean. We have carpenter ants around here and they will take over anything made of wood and touching the ground.

Around here, fence posts are usually 4" diameter [inline], but 6" is common as well [corners]. If you use a Navigator for something too large, you are likely to overheat the motor or break the cheap little plastic parts inside. However, a real Sawzall is made to cut steel, so you wouldn't hurt it, but a good one is more expensive than other options for cutting wood.
 
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  • #62
Ivan Seeking said:
Oh, just get a toy boy and be done with it. :biggrin:

Ivan, it's BOY TOY, not toy boy! :)

On second thought, maybe you DID mean toy boy!

:)

Zz.
 
  • #63
I meant toy boy! :biggrin:
 
  • #64
You get 4", 8" and 12" (all purpose) blades for the Sawzalls - good for wood, plastic, drywall and metal.
 
  • #65
Gokul43201 said:
You get 4", 8" and 12" (all purpose) blades for the Sawzalls - good for wood, plastic, drywall and metal.
You probably wouldn't want to make your first job using it for something that requires the 12" blade though. That length tends to whip, so it's best to learn to handle the saw with the shorter blades first. The 8" blade should do the job Evo needs done.
 
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  • #66
Ivan Seeking said:
Around here, fence posts are usually 4" diameter [inline], but 6" is common as well [corners]. If you use a Navigator for something too large, you are likely to overheat the motor or break the cheap little plastic parts inside. However, a real Sawzall is made to cut steel, so you wouldn't hurt it, but a good one is more expensive than other options for cutting wood.
I don't recall what brand I got. I was going to rent, and when I realized there was one cheaper than renting, I figured if it only lasted one job, I still saved money. It was perfect for fence posts, because they also had some old nails and staples in them from the chicken wire that had been attached to the fence, so I didn't have to pull all those out first, just cut right through them.
 
  • #67
Moonbear said:
You probably wouldn't want to make your first job using it for something that requires the 12" blade though. That length tends to whip, so it's best to learn to handle the saw with the shorter blades first. The 8" blade should do the job Evo needs done.
An 8" blade with a 3/4" or 1-1/4" stroke should to the job on a 6" trunk. The Sawzall is not too heavy, only 7 lbs.

One can notch the trunk, with the notch on the drop side lower. One has to pay attention to the center of mass of the tree. This will affect how it drops, and as one cuts, be careful not to let the tree catch the saw blade, and same goes for the chainsaw as well. If the blade gets caught, stop immediately. Then try to push the tree over - in the direction one wants it to go. Do the lower notch first, then the upper notch on the other side.

This might help - http://www.gov.mb.ca/labour/safety/treefelling.html

From KSU - http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/library/forst2/mf2103.pdf

Actually, one could call KSU extension service to see if they could recommend a tree service company, or call the local utility.

For larger trees - http://msucares.com/pubs/publications/p2250.pdf

Husqvarna's website with instructions on tree felling
http://international.husqvarna.com/?url=%2Fnode1470%2Easp%3Fframes%3Dfalse

Sears Craftsman has a some reasonably priced chainsaws.
 
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  • #68
Astronuc said:
Actually, one could call KSU extension service to see if they could recommend a tree service company, or call the local utility.
Do they have a forestry department? Maybe one of their students would be willing to do the job for a little pizza money. :biggrin:
 
  • #69
Moonbear said:
It was perfect for fence posts, because they also had some old nails and staples in them from the chicken wire that had been attached to the fence, so I didn't have to pull all those out first, just cut right through them.

I recently learned a great Sawzall trick from a plumber. It even makes removing studs from an existing wall a snap, which came in really handy on the remodel. You can just saw into the interface between boards and cut the nails without ever pulling them. Fantastic!

Edit: Uh oh, I almost forgot that I did that using a POS Navigator from Wal Mart. :redface: In fact I had given Tsu a bunch of grief for buying such a cheap piece of blah blah blah, but it worked really well. I had to eat my words...though the first one that she bought only worked about ten times and something broke.
 
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  • #70
Do NOT - I repeat - DO NOT do ANY overhead chain sawing. If you do, I'm telling MOM!
 
  • #71
Ivan Seeking said:
...though the first one that she bought only worked about ten times and something broke.

They do that when you abuse them. Or use them in a manner not quite recommended in the instruction manual.
 
  • #72
Hows about you all mosey up to Evos pad, you could form up into a convoy
tooting your horns and waving your sharp cuty things about, and when you
arrive you have a tree lopping party, Evo would have to provide the booze
and band aids.
 
  • #73
wolram said:
Hows about you all mosey up to Evos pad, you could form up into a convoy
tooting your horns and waving your sharp cuty things about, and when you
arrive you have a tree lopping party, Evo would have to provide the booze
and band aids.
Woooo hooooo! Tree-cutting party at Evo's house! Tsu, rev up the RV! :biggrin:
 
  • #74
Ivan Seeking said:
I recently learned a great Sawzall trick from a plumber. It even makes removing studs from an existing wall a snap, which came in really handy on the remodel. You can just saw into the interface between boards and cut the nails without ever pulling them. Fantastic!
Yep, it's definitely a versatile tool. Just curious...does anyone else besides me call the thing a tiger saw? That's what we called them when I was a kid. I'm wondering if it's a regional thing, or just an old name that has fallen into disuse due to branding, or if it's because they had to make the name more descriptive (reciprocating saw) when they started making lower grade, inexpensive, consumer-quality saws rather than the professional grade equipment I grew up around.
 
  • #75
Moonbear said:
Yep, it's definitely a versatile tool. Just curious...does anyone else besides me call the thing a tiger saw? That's what we called them when I was a kid. I'm wondering if it's a regional thing, or just an old name that has fallen into disuse due to branding, or if it's because they had to make the name more descriptive (reciprocating saw) when they started making lower grade, inexpensive, consumer-quality saws rather than the professional grade equipment I grew up around.
Tiger saw is the name commonly used around here. Milwaukee and Skil are fairly common, and still good quality.

KSU has the Department of Horticulture, Forestry and Recreation Resources - http://www.hfrr.k-state.edu/DesktopDefault.aspx
Good thinking, Moonbear.
 
  • #76
wolram said:
Hows about you all mosey up to Evos pad, you could form up into a convoy
tooting your horns and waving your sharp cuty things about, and when you
arrive you have a tree lopping party, Evo would have to provide the booze
and band aids.
Booze and power tools! I think I'll need more than just bandaids. :bugeye:
 
  • #77
Evo said:
Booze and power tools! I think I'll need more than just bandaids. :bugeye:
I think both were supposed to be for after the power tools are done being used. Especially the booze...that's just to help soothe all the aches and pains of whatever caused the need for band-aids! :rolleyes:
 
  • #78
Evo, the tree is small (by most standards) and can be felled with a light inexpensive crosscut saw. If you really want a power tool to cut it into pieces, get a reciprocating saw. Best of all, find a neighbor with a fireplace or woodstove and "give" them the tree. Power tools can do a lot of damage in a very short time when "stuff" happens. I have all of my fingers and toes, though I have had some close calls (especially when my wife and I rented a farm with an uninsulated old brick house and I had to cut 15-20 cords a year to heat the place). You have a very minor situation that you should not try to resolve by buying and using a power tool that can injure or kill you.
 
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  • #79
No kidding! We live in timber country. My wife, Tsu, is an X-Ray/CT tech who has seen many logging injuries in the ER. They are usually reeeeeealy ugly. Also, I nearly [literally] cut my head in half, right down the middle, when my 30" chainsaw got away from me while cutting overhead. When the limb went it came right at me - pushing the blade down onto my head while still engaged and running full throttle.

But the thing that I notice is how easily one grows careless with familiarity. I tend to swing around the 14" saw like a toy during thoughtless moments. I keep trying to remind myself that one mistake, just for a moment, can mean the loss of a finger or toe, or worse. A sharp 14" saw can cut through a one inch fir branch in about a half second.
 
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  • #80
Ok Ivan, so now I invision a Frankinstine-ish alien image of you:eek:

I did know a guy called Leaning Jack...he leaned because a chainsaw ripped apart the muscles of his left leg.
 
  • #81
Ivan Seeking said:
No kidding! We live in timber country. My wife, Tsu, is an X-Ray/CT tech who has seen many logging injuries in the ER. They are usually reeeeeealy ugly. Also, I nearly [literally] cut my head in half, right down the middle, when my 30" chainsaw got away from me while cutting overhead. When the limb went it came right at me - pushing the blade down onto my head while still engaged and running full throttle.
Ummm - there is a thing called a 'hard hat' and one wears such a hat to avoid heavy, hard or sharp things from coming in contact with one's head. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :biggrin:

Safety googles/glasses, work boots with steel toes, work gloves, are a must, and in the case of timber cutting with power tools, shin guards are strongly recommended.
 
  • #82
A hard hat vs a full throttle chain saw? Well it might hide the gore Best bet if you 100% have to use a chain saw have a buddy around to lend a hand. Even my little 12inch saw can still give you some scary moments, more so because the chain is too old and streatched (tents to slip off the end and bung up :bugeye: )
 
  • #83
Ok, I've nixed the chainsaw idea. Maybe the sawzall. That looks nifty.
 
  • #84
Astronuc said:
Ummm - there is a thing called a 'hard hat' and one wears such a hat to avoid heavy, hard or sharp things from coming in contact with one's head. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :biggrin:

Safety googles/glasses, work boots with steel toes, work gloves, are a must, and in the case of timber cutting with power tools, shin guards are strongly recommended.

Well, I was a real city boy back then. :biggrin:
 
  • #85
Evo said:
Ok, I've nixed the chainsaw idea. Maybe the sawzall. That looks nifty.


Good idea.
 
  • #86
The day after.
 

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  • #87
Too late; Evo is going for it...
.
.
.

http://pi.lib.uchicago.edu/1001/dig/aep2003/aep-was177.jpg
 
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  • #88
wolram said:
The day after.
:smile: Evo, if you cut off anybody parts, just remember to leave one finger attached to dial 911 with. :biggrin:
 
  • #89
Ivan Seeking said:
Too late; Evo is going for it...
.
.
.

http://pi.lib.uchicago.edu/1001/dig/aep2003/aep-was177.jpg
You give me too much credit, I'd be on the top part that's falling. :bugeye:
 
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  • #90
Evo said:
Ok, I've nixed the chainsaw idea. Maybe the sawzall. That looks nifty.
Thank you! You can at least let off the trigger before sawing of your left thumb instead of letting off the trigger to avoid sawing off your left hand.
 
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  • #91
Oh yes, I wanted to point out that it was TSU who broke the first Navigator; not me. :-p

Here is a great little trick that I learned. The first person to show me how to use a chainsaw - a weekend warrior - went all through the sharpening business with the chains and taught me to sharpen each one by hand...and he only used one chain at a time. :rolleyes:

What you do is you buy about four or five chains and get them all sharpened at once for about three bucks a piece. I never realized how quickly the chains get dull if you hit anything whatsoever. As it turns out, one nick on a rock and you might has well change the chain. It makes all the difference in the world.
 
  • #92
Ooh, Evo, I just saw an ad for this and thought of you!

http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html/602-1468794-3734213?asin=B000BANMUY&AFID=Froogle&LNM=B000BANMUY|Black__Decker_Alligator_Lopper&ref=tgt_adv_XSC10001"

:biggrin: It's a chainsaw and lopper all in one! :!)
 
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  • #93
Moonbear said:
Ooh, Evo, I just saw an ad for this and thought of you!

http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html/602-1468794-3734213?asin=B000BANMUY&AFID=Froogle&LNM=B000BANMUY|Black__Decker_Alligator_Lopper&ref=tgt_adv_XSC10001"

:biggrin: It's a chainsaw and lopper all in one! :!)
<gasp>

:!) :!) :!)

Target is still open. :approve:
 
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  • #94
can I have Evo's mentorship is she doesn't make it?
 
  • #95
yomamma said:
can I have Evo's mentorship is she doesn't make it?
Of cource,you killed franzbear so you should able to handle anything that happens in GD(and of cource the poltical four) and if greg or chroot doesn't make it you can take there place.
 
  • #96
Personally I'd recommend the v8 chainsaw for any tree with a trunk bigger than 4 inches.

http://www.guzer.com/videos/v8_chainsaw.php

Of course you'd have to buy a case of beer to pay off the rednecks to do the job.
 
  • #97
Jeff Reid said:
Personally I'd recommend the v8 chainsaw for any tree with a trunk bigger than 4 inches.

http://www.guzer.com/videos/v8_chainsaw.php

Of course you'd have to buy a case of beer to pay off the rednecks to do the job.
Oh my! :bugeye:
 
  • #98
Jeff Reid said:
Personally I'd recommend the v8 chainsaw for any tree with a trunk bigger than 4 inches.

http://www.guzer.com/videos/v8_chainsaw.php

Of course you'd have to buy a case of beer to pay off the rednecks to do the job.
:smile: 4 " eh?
 
  • #99
Evo said:
4 " eh?
Talking diameter here. As Arnold would say, why waste time with one of those "girly-man" machines? The V8 will have that tree down in a split second (bad pun intended).
 
  • #100
Is there a reason you can't cut down the tree first and then cut off the branches so you don't have to reach overhead? (or were you planing on pruning other trees as well?)
 

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