Let's change another light bulb

[Office_Shredder]

You've helped me change a couple bulbs so far, hopefully this is the last one.

There's a recessed light on a hinge (a gimbal light maybe?) There are three exterior white rings - the outermost is a trim, the middle is a flat piece, the inner is ridged. Both the middle and inner piece move on the swivel, and the middle piece is attached to the pivots on the side that let you angle the light.

I'm not really sure what is supposed to be removable here. Nothing has any give except the bulb + pivot all move together to rotate the angle you point. If anyone knows what the right part to attack is I would be more comfortable applying more force.

 

[jedishrfu]

My guess is the bulb can be removed first and then you can get to the other parts.

Have you tried putting tape on the bulb to get a hold of it? Use some duck tape and then you can try pulling it or twisting it.

Can you see what type of bulb it is? Perhaps you can find a picture that shows if its screwed in or simply pushed into the socket.

I found this product that looks like yours:

https://www.lightingdirect.com/wac-...dNphqIVA_ofnnr-dangaAjyjEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

The product above requires a GY5.3 bulb:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=GY5.3+bulb&crid=1E4FFSEN2SCXU&sprefix=gy5.3+bulb,aps,482&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

This bulb has prongs so its a push in install

 

[Borek]

Which reminds me of an old question: how many forum users does it take to change a light bulb?

 

[Office_Shredder]

My guess is the bulb can be removed first and then you can get to the other parts.

Have you tried putting tape on the bulb to get a hold of it? Use some duck tape and then you can try pulling it or twisting it.

Can you see what type of bulb it is? Perhaps you can find a picture that shows if its screwed in or simply pushed into the socket.

I found this product that looks like yours:

https://www.lightingdirect.com/wac-...dNphqIVA_ofnnr-dangaAjyjEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

The product above requires a GY5.3 bulb:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=GY5.3+bulb&crid=1E4FFSEN2SCXU&sprefix=gy5.3+bulb,aps,482&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

This bulb has prongs so its a push in install

This is a great example. On the installation sheet (under manufacturing resources) there is a lens and lens retaining ring in front of the bulb. It's very unclear to me how these are actually connected, but would need to be removed before pulling the actual bulb itself.

The way the springs are drawn for the trim I'm not sure if that's supposed to be easily removable. It doesn't look like a tension clip.

 

[hutchphd]

From the picture the tension clip looks like it is designed to be easilly serviceable (with ordinary maybe needle nose pliers). Squeeze and remove. Maybe even your fingers.

 

[Office_Shredder]

The answer ended up being pull the whole trim out. It was a beast to extract.

 

[jedishrfu]

The impatience factor?

Yes, we've all done that too and then found there was a simple trick but not obvious from the outside.

 

[Office_Shredder]

The impatience factor?

Yes, we've all done that too and then found there was a simple trick but not obvious from the outside.

I tried pulling out the whole trim and the force required to not make it move made me worried I was going to break it. The datasheet you found basically convinced me there was no other way this was going to come out though, so I decided to go for it hard. It scraped off the whole safety label on the recessed canister in the ceiling - little white pieces crunching out of your ceiling while you put your full force behind just pulling and shaking on something is not a comfortable place to be haha.

 

[Tom.G]

Here is a link to the installation sheet above:
https://s2.img-b.com/lightingdirect...8/wac-lighting-hr-d417-installation-sheet.pdf

It shows an exploded view and the following instructions:

INSTALLING LAMP AND TRIM:
1. From the front of trim, insert the MR16 lamp followed by the clear glass lens, and secure with the lens retaining ring.
2. Attach the socket from the housing by pushing gently on to the pins of the MR16 lamp.
3. Push the trim springs into the housing until the trim ring is flush against the ceiling.

The lens is held in with a snap-ring, remove those two and the bulb is accessible for replacement.

Cheers,
Tom

 

[sophiecentaur]

The problem with those downlighters, both simple and complicated, is that the fittings are just not high quality. That nasty nasty arrangement of the mousetrap type clips, which hold the whole fitting in the plasterboard, means that you mess up the hole a bit more every time the fitting goes in and out. Does anyone remember Arkright's Till? They're scary.

When Halogen bulbs have been used, the heat destroys the plaster and it goes crumbly (also the heat from a gas cooker can destroy things up there). At least LEDs don't harm the plaster these days. But the whole fitting dries out and the pin sockets can go so stiff that pushing the new bulb in hard can push all the works up into the cavity.

Not to mention the dead spiders that fall in your face in the process.