Power Your Bug Zapper with Solar: 12V DC to 12V AC Conversion Guide

In summary: It's a common symbol for a rectifier. It's a symbol for a transformer that converts AC to DC.There's also a small label that says "SOLAR CHARGED - 12 VOLT".Thanks!In summary, the battery is 14 AH and the zapper is a model 8401-4501-01 with LED 12V, 1.3W. When looking up the model number, it was not clear to Phil if all low voltage landscape systems are AC or DC, so he asked the manufacturer if AC or DC is OK. Assuming it is DC, he connected it directly to the battery and found that the zapper draws about .11A and provides 127 hours of operation
  • #36
Sounds like it's not drawing very much current at all.

Does voltage change when you press the button to turn on UV/Zapper ? Do they come on ?

Can't quite make out part numbers on your picture.

What happens if you press and hold the pushbutton ?
Do UV and zapper come on ? If so you can probably just short the switch, or remove it and twist the wires together. Try a piece of tape to hold it pressed, see if it starts okay.
 
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  • #37
A couple of points:

I agree that that black device is a bridge rectifier. Sometimes these are specified right on the limit. Running with AC input means that all 4 diodes are sharing the heat dissipation. Running with a DC input means that 2 diodes are dissipating ALL the power resulting from the voltage drop x current so they are dissipating double what they would be with AC. (This matters only if you can feel the device getting hot.)

12 volts RMS will produce 12 x 1.4 = 16.8 volts DC, minus about 2 volts lost through the rectifiers. So 14.8 volts.
12 volts DC will produce 12 minus about 2 volts lost through the rectifiers. So 10 volts. Consequently, I wouldn't recommend adding a resistor or bulb to lose even more voltage. In fact, had it not worked I would have been suggesting linking out the bridge rectifier.
 
  • #38
Manolis said:
Consequently, I wouldn't recommend adding a resistor or bulb to lose even more voltage. In fact, had it not worked I would have been suggesting linking out the bridge rectifier.
The purpose of the bulb/resistor is to limit current flow into the device should something inside it latch "on". There's a SMPS on that board to make high voltage for the zapper , i wanted to limit current into the device just to rule out pyrotechnics. Don't know for sure yet whether it uses AC ripple to trigger something .

When he gets ready to button this one up the current limiters can go away.
Their 25 amp limit is probably for fire protection.
Phil12 said:
I did notice also that the zapper box flap says - "Use ONLY with low voltage outdoor landscape lighting products with power packs that have a maximum output rating of 12 volts, 300 watts per circuit."

The light bulb current limiter is an old technician's trick. Being an old technician i just wanted to not destroy the circuit board.

old jim
 
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  • #39
Hey guys,

Just wanted to give a quick update on this "experiment". I think I'm going to leave it As Is, without the photocell. The zapper works great, almost too well, as I have to disconnect it and clean it off every day or two. I've put it on the front porch and just leave it on 24/7.

Many mosquitoes have gone to the Happy Hunting grounds, though! :-D

Thanks so much for your time and patience with this 'babe in the woods'!

Phil
 
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