Why Is My Converted Galvanometer Not Matching Standard Ammeter Readings?

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SUMMARY

The discussion focuses on the challenges of converting a galvanometer into an ammeter, specifically addressing issues with resistance and shunt values. Users highlight the importance of not obsessing over exact calculations, as neither the galvanometer resistance nor the shunt will be precise. A variable resistor, approximately 1/4 to 1/2 the coil resistance, is recommended for fine-tuning the readings. Additionally, it is crucial to avoid connecting the meter at the far ends of the shunt to minimize errors caused by connection resistance.

PREREQUISITES
  • Understanding of galvanometer resistance and shunt values
  • Knowledge of variable resistors and their application
  • Familiarity with electrical connections and resistance measurement
  • Basic principles of current measurement in circuits
NEXT STEPS
  • Research the Kelvin Connection for accurate measurements
  • Learn about variable resistors and their role in circuit adjustments
  • Explore methods for calculating shunt resistance for galvanometers
  • Study the impact of connection resistance on measurement accuracy
USEFUL FOR

This discussion is beneficial for electrical engineers, hobbyists converting galvanometers, and anyone involved in precision current measurement and circuit design.

ajaykrishna90
I am trying to convert galvanometer into an ammeter. But after finding Galvanometer resistance and shunt values, and cut a wire according to that thickness and connected. But still, the galavanometer reading is not similar to that of the standard ammeter reading connected in the circuit. Any one can help me please? In detail.
 
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ajaykrishna90 said:
Galvanometer resistance
And, what is that resistance?
ajaykrishna90 said:
cut a wire according to that thickness
What wire? What resistance?
ajaykrishna90 said:
not similar to that of the standard ammeter
What current are you trying to measure?
 
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I've found that placing a variable resistance on the order of 1/4 - 1/2 the coil resistance is useful as you can never quite get the shunt wire correct and the resistor will allow you an added adjustment.
Don't obsess over exact calculations as neither the meter resistance nor shunt will be exact.
Also, don't attach the meter at the far ends of the shunt because the resistance of the connections will contribute error. Rather, attach the meter to the shunt a little ways in from one connection. Then, move the other meter lead along the length to get the correct reading while a test current flows.
- Reference Kelvin Connection.

Hope this helps a bit.

- Mike
 
Mike bro thanks a lot. Its great. Got some new tips. I will try. Thanks again.
 
Mike_In_Plano said:
Also, don't attach the meter at the far ends of the shunt because the resistance of the connections will contribute error.

Mike pointed out the most common beginner's mistake.
Think about it - you're using the galvanometer as a voltmeter to read the milivolts across your shunt, which is probably only milli-ohms.
Here's a picture from a Kelvin link as Mike suggested
00480.png

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_8/9.html
You need the millivolts across the shunt itself,
NOT the millivolts across the shunt PLUS millivolts across the connectors.
I used to cut my shunt wire a little long so there's room for the current connections outside my meter connections.

old jim
 
Thanks a lot
 

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