Help designing an electrical circuit for camper van

In summary: If you are looking to install solar panels and you are not familiar with the installation process, you may want to consult an professional. When the engine is not running, there needs to be some way of isolating the vehicle main start battery from the house battery charger. Otherwise you can't start next morning.Maybe you could make provision to add a solar panel. That would keep the house battery charged while idle for extended periods. Your circuit diagram is inadequate for advisory purposes.For example, it says 130 Ah alternator, but it doesn't show how the alternator is connected, and although battery capacity can be stated in amp-hours, alternator power is measured in amps.
  • #1
earthandgnar
1
0
TL;DR Summary
looking for help designing my simple camper van electrical system, as I know very little about electrical circuits. 4 days of research and this is what I came up with (attached) Thanks!
Hi everyone
Hopefully I am not out of line posting in this forum.
I am looking for some advice planning the electrical system for my camper van. I know very little about electrical circuits and all related to it, and after 4 days of research I am still nervous to spend a lot of money and potentially burn my van to the ground. Hopefully it is legible and provides enough information, any help will be very greatly appreciated! thanks so much
 

Attachments

  • van electrical.JPG
    van electrical.JPG
    57.9 KB · Views: 149
Engineering news on Phys.org
  • #2
Welcome to PF.

When the engine is not running, there needs to be some way of isolating the vehicle main start battery from the house battery charger. Otherwise you can't start next morning.

Maybe you could make provision to add a solar panel. That would keep the house battery charged while idle for extended periods.
 
  • #3
Your circuit diagram is inadequate for advisory purposes.

1595413120964.png


For example, it says 130 Ah alternator, but it doesn't show how the alternator is connected, and although battery capacity can be stated in amp-hours, alternator power is measured in amps.

As @Baluncore said, isolation is required ##-## here are some how-to references:

https://hellroaring.com/rv.php
https://gnomadhome.com/vanlife-installing-battery-isolator/

Beyond that and some fuses, you can keep things simple, or go further ##-## these systems are neither the least expensive nor the simplest, but they're pretty good:

https://www.trucks.com/2019/12/26/power-vanlife-diy-electrical-guide/
https://mowgli-adventures.com/camper-van-electrical-design/
https://faroutride.com/electrical-system/
https://faroutride.com/interactive-wiring-diagram/

If you read up on the basics, you'll be better positioned to make good decisions about how to implement what's essential and about what to do regarding what's nice to have but not required.

http://www.outbackcrossing.com.au/FourWheelDrive/Basic_Dual_Battery_System.shtml
 
  • Informative
Likes DaveE and berkeman
  • #4
Just get an off-the-shelf split charge system. This charges the starter battery first, then the house one. You can also get 0-1-2-both switches to isolate the starter battery once it’s charged, or this feature may be built into the split charge system.
 
  • #5
earthandgnar said:
Summary:: looking for help designing my simple camper van electrical system, as I know very little about electrical circuits. 4 days of research and this is what I came up with (attached) Thanks!

I am looking for some advice planning the electrical system for my camper van.
In the past, I had a VW camper with a 'Zig' Unit that, reputedly, automatically took care of charging the leisure battery whenever possible. ('Split charger') If that battery started to sag, iirc, you could use the start battery for domestic use at your own risk. I must say, it just worked but the 12V loads were very small, being a few lamps and a water pump. The fridge was a two way job (gas / electric and horribly inefficient) This link has a number of comments of the (dated) Zig System. Opinions are luke warm about Zig.

I've been where you are, only the later application was a sailing cruiser with inboard engine. You will probably have looked at Caravan systems and you would be well advised to look at 12V systems for boats too. You can pay an absolute fortune for turnkey systems that have all the bells and whistles. The one essential feature is that the Start / vehicle battery should be isolated from the domestic battery except when they are both charging AND a switch panel with separate switches and fuses for all the different appliances. Things always fail in the dark and you need to be able to fault find quickly and no in the pitch black. When I took over the boat, there was a A/B/A+B/ Off switch and that was all. It worked fine as long as I remembered to make sure it was all Off when I left the boat. It also meant that the either battery could be used to start the engine. (Fine if you were planning to do some lengthy motoring that day. Mine was a motor sailor and I used the motor as little as possible.
Split Charger: At one time, people used two diodes to ensure that neither battery could discharge into the other one but that meant there was a 0.5V drop in the charging circuit and the regulator was not operating ideally. Remote voltage sensing would take care of that but it's another wire needed (plus some knowhow, plus an appropriate alternator).
VSR: I finally chose to put in a Voltage Sensing Relay (a range of prices for these so shopped around) which did the thinking for me. It defaults to charging the start battery and switches in the leisure battery when the start battery is fully charged. It disconnects if the volts drop too far. I kept the A/B/AB switch as belt and braces and as the ultimate circuit breaker but the system worked fine and I never had a problem, despite using an electric (compressor) fridge and an auto helm (not a lot of use though).
I had a very inadequate Wind Turbine but, nowadays, I would have chosen some PV panels which do a good job as long as you use twice the area that you are told is necessary. I guess covering the roof with low profile panels wouldn't affect the drag factor too much. But the worse mpg could probably pay for an hour of static running of the engine if you need a day or two at a site, static.
My main advice is to do nothing yet, until you have read all those links above and also read the Boating Mag articles. (Dozens available)

If you do this yourself then make sure to use good connectors (not just chocolate block), thick cable, heat shrink sleeving and trunking. (And several different colours of cable!)
 
  • Informative
  • Like
Likes DaveE and sysprog
  • #6
@earthandgnar Whilst you are looking through all those links about 12V circuits, note how the diagrams are drawn and aim to use the styles of the most understandable. I would not risk trying to wire up a system using a diagram of the kind you have drawn. You could very easily lose yourself when half way to completion and then what would you do?
Practice some sketches of very simple arrangements and copy a few from what you see from Google. (The Images search setting can give you hundreds to choose from.) I am not just being snotty about this; a proper drawing system will be your friend.
 
  • Like
Likes DaveE

1. How do I determine the power requirements for my camper van?

To determine the power requirements for your camper van, you will need to consider all the electrical appliances and devices you plan on using. Make a list of each item and their power ratings (in watts). Then, add up the total wattage to determine the overall power requirement for your circuit.

2. What is the best type of battery to use for a camper van electrical circuit?

The best type of battery to use for a camper van electrical circuit is a deep cycle battery. These batteries are designed to provide a steady and consistent flow of power over a longer period of time, making them ideal for use in a camper van.

3. How do I ensure proper grounding for my camper van electrical circuit?

Proper grounding is essential for safety and efficient functioning of your camper van electrical circuit. To ensure proper grounding, you will need to connect the negative terminal of your battery to the chassis of your camper van using a thick and sturdy wire. This will provide a direct path for any excess electricity to safely dissipate into the ground.

4. Can I use solar panels to power my camper van's electrical circuit?

Yes, solar panels can be a great source of power for your camper van's electrical circuit. However, it is important to ensure that the solar panels are properly sized to meet your power requirements and that they are connected to a charge controller to prevent overcharging of your battery.

5. How can I protect my camper van's electrical circuit from overloading or short circuits?

To protect your camper van's electrical circuit from overloading or short circuits, you can install fuses or circuit breakers in your circuit. These safety devices will automatically cut off the power supply in case of an overload or short circuit, preventing any damage to your electrical system.

Similar threads

  • Electrical Engineering
Replies
2
Views
480
  • Electrical Engineering
Replies
11
Views
908
  • Electrical Engineering
Replies
6
Views
1K
  • Electrical Engineering
Replies
33
Views
558
  • Electrical Engineering
Replies
4
Views
1K
  • Electrical Engineering
Replies
1
Views
824
Replies
12
Views
2K
  • Electrical Engineering
Replies
32
Views
2K
Replies
3
Views
1K
Back
Top