Odd voltages on home built PSU

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The discussion revolves around building a power supply that converts 120VAC to approximately 12VDC, with issues related to unexpected voltage readings after rectification. The transformer outputs 13.6VAC, but after rectification and capacitor addition, the voltage spikes to 18VDC, while without the capacitor, it drops to 6VDC. Suggestions include using a bridge rectifier for full-wave rectification, implementing a large NPN transistor for better voltage regulation, and ensuring a load is present to stabilize voltage readings. The center tap of the transformer is noted as ground, which can affect voltage output. Ultimately, the voltage will vary based on load, ranging from 18V down to 9V depending on current draw.
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I'm working on building a power supply (120VAC to ~12VDC). The Transformer puts out 13.6VAC without any modifications. But once I put on a diode on each side (make into DC) then put on a 1000 microfarad capacitor to eliminate the cosine curve it bumps up to 18VDC. Without said capacitor it registers 6VDC (probably due to the cos curve still existing). I'm at a loss here, I tried to use a larger (4700) capacitor and the voltage was the same, so I don't believe it was that at fault. It's a typical 3 output transformer with one black and two yellow wires with the yellow ones being used. Thnx ahead of time!
 
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To get full voltage with a full wave rectification, you need a bridge (full wave) rectifier (four diodes). Full-voltage half-wave rectification requires only one diode. Put a dc load across the capacitor to drain charge off between every (half) cycle to get a better voltage reading.

To get better voltage regulation, put a large NPN transistor (e.g., 2N3055) in series. Use a resistor and zener to control base voltage. Connect collector to capacitor, and emitter to load. Or you could use a 2N7912 or other regulator.

The black wire is a center tap on the transformer secondary, useful for full wave rectification with two diodes. The black wire is ground. But you get only half the voltage out.
 
I'd use a regulator with caps on both sides, to minimize ripple. It's pretty much the standard thing.
For a 12V regulator like a 7812 you'll need at least 15V though, although you can probably find a low-drop version. And remember to attach it to some cooling flange.
 
alxm said:
I'd use a regulator with caps on both sides, to minimize ripple. It's pretty much the standard thing.
For a 12V regulator like a 7812 you'll need at least 15V though, although you can probably find a low-drop version. And remember to attach it to some cooling flange.
Well, I have 18V now, so that wouldn't a problem. Nor would a couple heat sinks and a small fan from an old CPU.

Bob S said:
To get full voltage with a full wave rectification, you need a bridge (full wave) rectifier (four diodes). Full-voltage half-wave rectification requires only one diode. Put a dc load across the capacitor to drain charge off between every (half) cycle to get a better voltage reading.

To get better voltage regulation, put a large NPN transistor (e.g., 2N3055) in series. Use a resistor and zener to control base voltage. Connect collector to capacitor, and emitter to load. Or you could use a 2N7912 or other regulator.

The black wire is a center tap on the transformer secondary, useful for full wave rectification with two diodes. The black wire is ground. But you get only half the voltage out.

I'd be a little nervous about running a couple amps thru a transistor though, wouldn't it burn out? I'm looking to build a 3AMP transformer box. And could you come up with a diagram or something? I'm not quite getting what you said on how to wire it all.
 
Well, asked an electrical engineer, and got a dur answer I should have known: it's not regulated, so the voltage will vary upon load, probably from 18-9 volts pending on ampheres going thru it.
 
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