Our Beautiful Universe - Photos and Videos

[Keith_McClary]

This is a "preview", the full data will come later.

Here is the full data. It was a 33MB ".fts" file, which I converted to a 24MB ".png" 4096x4096 (using "FIJI", don't reallyknow what I'm doing).

It looks different from the "preview" maybe I converted it badly.

 

[Keith_McClary]

Can I ask about this Skygem prices?

https://www.skygems-observatories.com/#price
You can register an account for free and go to "Create Imaging Request" to see the prices for each scope. It will tell you that you need to buy more points. 1 point ~ €1.

 

[Devin-M]

I simulated a quick binary solar mass black hole flyby of the Earth (gif animation slowed down to about 1/300th normal speed) and in the simulation it heated the Earth's surface to about 25000 degrees in a few seconds. Not sure whether it really could heat the surface this quickly without tidally ripping apart, but it's an interesting scenario to consider, none the less.

 

[Keith_McClary]

I’ve always liked M104.

Which filter(s)?:
luminance, R, G, B, Ha7, OIII, SII
I could do one moonless or two with the moon discount.

 

[DennisN]

single 14mm lens, f/2.8 15sec 5000iso full frame dslr processed through adobe lightroom, bortle 2:

That is a beautiful photo!

 

[bruha]

Thank you for skygem info- I will try it. Concerning my question.. yes this country photo is really amazing, but I use primary telescope for imaging , [not have good equipment for imaging just by camera]. I mean if somebody by chance have experience with this Ebony eyepiece camera .
Thanks

 

[Devin-M]

For astrophotography you’ll want a camera that produces 14bit to 16bit raw files at high resolution (16MP to 64MP) to obtain the needed dynamic range for histogram stretching and resolution required when shooting small angular size, faint objects like nebulas and galaxies. In my opinion l, the easiest way to learn about the camera side of astrophotography is with a DSLR or mirrorless camera from Nikon or Canon (Sony has known issues with astrophotography- noise reduction applied to RAW files which is referred to as the “Star Eater” problem). The reason these cameras make it easier to learn is they have screens and buttons so you can try different settings using just the camera itself. You can think of your telescope as just another lens that you attach to the DSLR or mirrorless camera body. If you want to begin at a more advanced level you might want a cooled monochrome dedicated astro camera such as the ZWO ASI 1600mm Pro, but these require a laptop connected to the camera to change settings and view the results, and a filter wheel since they shoot in monochrome (this makes your system much less portable which can be a problem if you have light pollution to contend with). You might ultimately get better results with one of these dedicated astro cameras but the learning curve will be very steep. If you instead go the DSLR route, you can attach it to your telescope but you can also attach it to other lenses to use for Astro-Landscapes, etc.

https://www.nikonimgsupport.com/eu/...configured=1&lang=en_GB&sfdcIFrameOrigin=null

“When evaluating the effect and comparing between 12-bit and 14-bit, the area that will show the most significant improvement between the two options is in the shadow detail. 14-bit will give you four times the information overall, but the shadow areas which receive much less exposure generally than mid-tones or highlights will have far greater detail.”

^You probably wouldn’t be able to notice the difference between 12bit (4096 levels per RGB color channel), 14bit (16384 levels per RGB color channel) or 16bit (65536 levels per RGB color channel) until after you stack multiple long exposure (2-5 minute) images and then stretch the histogram of the resulting 16bit tif file to reveal nebulosity and other faint details. Essentially, higher bit depth of a RAW file means more information about the brightness of faint objects is captured in the dark areas of the image which can be revealed in your final 8bit (256 levels per RGB color channel) JPG image that you will eventually see on your screen or print at the photo lab.

 

[Devin-M]

The optical setup in this video is considered fairly cutting edge right now with an extremely impressive f/2 focal ratio:

 

[bruha]

Hi, and thank you very much for information, so I understandt, that res. 1900 x 1200 is not sufficient (but this SV bony camera is presented as for telesc. eyepiece using.) So I will se how it works with for ex. planet imaging , but must wait for summer..

Lot of succes..

 

[Devin-M]

My main concern using that camera would be whether or not it can save images as RAW files.

As an example, I took a stacked 16-bit TIF image of the Horsehead nebula that I did previously from 60x 14-bit Raw Files (600mm, f/9, 1600iso, 2 min, full frame dslr), scaled down to 1920x1280px:

Next I histogram stretched the above TIF 16 bit image in Adobe Lightroom to reveal the nebulosity, which was then converted to JPG:

But for comparison, before histogram stretching the following image, I converted it from a 16-bit TIF to an 8-bit JPG, and then I applied the same transformation settings that were used with the previous image:

^It can be seen that the above image is noisier and has a lot more compression artifacts.

The results would be even poorer if the source images saved by the camera initially had been 8-bit JPGs rather than 14-bit RAW files, so this doesn't even truly demonstrate the full loss in quality that results from shooting in JPG mode rather than RAW, it only shows the loss in quality from converting to JPG during a single step of the editing process.

 

[Devin-M]

Just for fun, before doing any processing at all, I converted my 60x 14-bit RAW 7360x4912 files to 1920x1280 8-bit JPG files before stacking them, then I saved the resulting stacked image as an 8-bit JPG, then I histogram stretched that 8-bit JPG using the same settings as the previous images, and I got this:

Compare that with the earlier image I obtained by using 14-bit RAW files, converted to 16-bit TIFs before stacking, and then histogram stretching the 16-bit tif before converting to a JPG as the final step:

The only difference between these two images is the first one used a lossy 8-bit color space during processing and the other used a lossless 14-bit and 16 bit color space during capture & processing (same images and processing steps, but different bit depths & file formats-- jpg vs raw & tif).

 

[DennisN]

My new Sony A6000 has delivered its first objective (sharp photos of the Moon),
which actually turned out even better than I had expected.
Yesterday evening I was sitting with a big smile in front of the computer...

And it was a great benefit to be able to control the camera remotely with my smartphone.
I used an Android app called qDslrDashboard where I could set up number of photos to take,
and also set delay between photos. Then when I clicked "Start", the app just started sending shutter commands via WiFi to the Sony A6000.

And in the app on my smartphone I could also see a live view of what the camera was seeing.
My poor LG G4 phone has now been demoted from main camera to a mere camera controller.
21st century hi-tech, yeah!

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Object: The Moon, 27 March 2021
Gear: Sony A6000 with an Optomax 300mm f/5.6 telephoto lens (set to aperture f/5.6)
Photo settings: ISO: 400, Shutter speed: 1/1000 s
Photos taken: 130 (25% of the best photos were selected by AutoStakkert and stacked)
Note: The photos were actually not taken as RAW, I had to use JPGs, since I haven't yet figured out how to set qDslrDashboard to command Sony A6000 to take RAW photos.

Software used:

Sony A6000 remotely controlled with qDslrDashboard
-> PIPP (Planetary Imaging Preprocessor)
-> Autostakkert (stacking software)
-> Photoshop
-> Flickr
-> Physics Forums

(Hmm, I used only one camera but had to use four photo softwares.
Does that mean that 20% of the time is spent taking the photos and
the other 80% processing the photos? It sure seems so. )

Final photo after stacking:

Another version with heavily increased contrast:
(so I could see how much detail there actually was in the photo)

The gear: (no, it's not an anti-aircraft gun )

 

[Devin-M]

Very nice work!

 

[Keith_McClary]

Which filter(s)?:
luminance, R, G, B, Ha7, OIII, SII
I could do one moonless or two with the moon discount.

I ordered M104, luminance, moonless.

I don't understand how the "preview" of Tarantula looked so different from the full data. Will see how M104 looks.

 

[Devin-M]

Here is the full data. It was a 33MB ".fts" file, which I converted to a 24MB ".png" 4096x4096 (using "FIJI", don't reallyknow what I'm doing).

It looks different from the "preview" maybe I converted it badly.

I don't understand how the "preview" of Tarantula looked so different from the full data. Will see how M104 looks.

Did you stretch the histogram? If you upload the .fts file here I can try stretching it for you...

https://u.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=kZBryWXZO0JlBNTX4aRwNgADmL9gJptPpJhk

 

[Devin-M]

I don't understand how the "preview" of Tarantula looked so different from the full data. Will see how M104 looks.

I think I got pretty good results from histogram stretching your .fts file...

before:

after:

100% crop:

Converted .fts to 16 bit .tif file at:
https://convertio.co/image-converter/

Adobe Lightroom Settings

Basic Settings

Exposure +4.55
Contrast +100
Highlights -66
Shadows -40
Whites -100
Blacks -43
Clarity +87
Dehaze +49

Tone Curve Settings

Highlights -22
Lights -25
Darks +40
Shadows -100

Export Settings

16 bit tif 4096x4096
8 bit jpg 4096x4096
8 bit jpg 1920x1920

Download Stretched 4096x4096 16-bit .tif or 8-bit .jpg:

https://u.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=kZBryWXZO0JlBNTX4aRwNgADmL9gJptPpJhk

 

[Andy Resnick]

Hoping for a clear night tonight- been working on two objects, the Rosette nebula @ 400/2.8, DX frame, now up to 5.7 hours @ ISO 320:

and M51 @ 800/5.6, here's 3 hours @ ISO 1000, 200% zoom and crop

 

[Devin-M]

I’m waiting til thursday to start shooting again when the moon will be down for a solid 3 hours at the start of astro-dark so it will be worth driving 30 miles to a bortle 2... I’m hoping to capture an hour of Oiii, an hour of Ha and an hour of RGB of a certain target but I’m probably being optimistic...

 

[bruha]

Hello, moon by these SV Ebony cam (nowadays is full moon, so no good condition ).

 

[Devin-M]

after:

^apparently I'd need around a 2000mm focal length lens to capture this on my full frame dslr which is a roughly 1 degree by 0.66 degree field of view...

 

[Murilo T]

The most inspiring video that touches my hearth every time that I see:

 

[Andy Resnick]

From last night- a trio of galaxies in Leo (400/2.8, 6hrs), a near 100% crop:

And the Sunflower galaxy (M63), 800/5.6, 0.75 hours; 100% crop:

 

[Devin-M]

Very nice Sunflower detail!

 

[DennisN]

At you who are more experienced than me:

Yesterday when I was trying to photograph the Moon again, I did a quick and dirty shot of stars approximately just to the right of Ursa Major. This kind of light streak, which I have sometimes seen in photos by others, are they satellites? Or could they also be airplanes?

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Two more Moon photos:

Sony A6000 + Optomax 300mm f/5.6 tele lens set at f/8
ISO 800, 1/2000s shutter speed, stack of 200 photos (25% of the best stacked by AutoStakkert)

The same photo with more contrast:

The gear in action:
(obviously not a particularly good location with respect to surrounding lights , but it was another test run)

 

[Devin-M]

Satellite

 

[Devin-M]

I’m curious whether your Sony camera has the “star eater issue”.

Ive heard it basically consists of noise reduction being applied to the raw files when the exposure is longer than about 4 seconds.

In theory, if you did 2 tests shots... one at 2 seconds and one at 5 seconds, you’d see less stars in the 5 second exposure in the Raw file on account of the star eater noise reduction, if you’re having that issue...

 

[DennisN]

I’m curious whether your Sony camera has the “star eater issue”.

Ive heard it basically consists of noise reduction being applied to the raw files when the exposure is longer than about 4 seconds.

In theory, if you did 2 tests shots... one at 2 seconds and one at 5 seconds, you’d see less stars in the 5 second exposure in the Raw file on account of the star eater noise reduction, if you’re having that issue...

I will test it and return . But I want to choose at least a little bit better location than where I'm at, which is in the middle of the city at Bortle 9. I cry when I see the light pollution.

 

[Keith_McClary]

These light streaks

I had to turn out the lights and display it on a dark background to find 1 streak!
https://www.physicsforums.com/attachments/51082586493_9153f279cf_c-jpg.280656/

 

[Andy Resnick]

At you who are more experienced than me:

This kind of light streak, which I have sometimes seen in photos by others, are they satellites? Or could they also be airplanes?

View attachment 280656

On my monitor, I can't see what you are referring to- I see isolated stars scattered in the frame, but no lines. Help?

 

[DennisN]

On my monitor, I can't see what you are referring to- I see isolated stars scattered in the frame, but no lines. Help?

I regretfully did some editing of the photo which made the light streak extremely dark (sorry!), but here are two more versions:

1. A crop of the original photo:

2. A version with heavily increased exposure: