At a coffee house this morning I met a guy who had just, this morning, gotten back from Cuba. He traveled there as part of some kind of performing group. They went via Mexico and the round trip ticket was an astonishing $550 per person (Tijuana>Mexico City>Havana).
His experience was that younger cubans were all about American visitors, but very old ones, ones who remember the days of the Mob Casinos, were spitting on the ground in front of them. Anyway, he found it to be very safe, and the whole island was quite beautiful. And, yeah, he brought back cigars. (Erroneously, he thought you were allowed to bring back 100 cigars. Googling tells me you're actually allowed to bring back $100 worth of cigars.)
It really piqued my interest. I think it would be an amazing place to visit under the historical circumstances. Castro, about 90, is still there, amazingly, taking it easy in the background.