Taking apart a remote, is there a special tool?

[Jackie1]

I want to take apart a comcast remote. Even after I take the batteries out, there are no screws under the battery cover like on older remotes to take them apart.

- Super small seam here around the remote is so thin, a typical splunger tool you can use to take a cell phone apart won't work, as tool still too thick.

Below is a generic remote I found tear down instructions for, but seam on above remote is much thinner to use this.

Any ideas?

 

[sophiecentaur]

Any bit of plastic that's thin and of the shape in the picture would do. I have used a round edged table knife. The secret is to see the tab you have to push in by looking carefully into the joint then pushing and twisting at the same time. Once a tab has been released it may stay out but there may be six tabs and one or two may slip back. Patience, Keep at it and be as gentle as possible.
BTW, why do you want to take it apart? Has it stopped working or are you just curious? The 'keys/buttons' are probably all on one moulded sheet and they can sometimes accumulate moisture underneath. Wiping with a tissue can sometimes restore function - temporarily.

 

[Jackie1]

Thank you. THis remote is just super super thin, where even a knife is too wide to fit into the crack.

I'm taking part to paint the top portion of the remote, WHITE. The tv is white, and in a all white kitchen, and I'm helping someone out who's very fussy and wants a white remote like the tv came with (but you can't use that one as it's on comcast, where you need to use their remote, which is black) :)

 

[gneill]

You might find that a set of "feeler-gauges" (typically used for automotive spark gap setting) will help. They come in a set of varying thicknesses, have nice rounded ends, and are fairly robust. The clamshell is no doubt held together by snap-fit tabs (as per @sophiecentaur) and you'll have to either eyeball them or otherwise determine their location by how the shells respond to torques applied as you move around the slot.

 

[Guineafowl]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27222518...e9f0e1b1670aa668403b928ffe04d37&ul_noapp=true

Acenix spring steel spudger.

 

[berkeman]

In your 2nd photo showing the empty battery compartment, what is that round thingy just above the two battery spots? Is it a rivet?

There's a chance that the remote is ultrasonically welded, so to take it apart you have to use a hacksaw to get the joint separation started. And/or decapitate that rivet... Have you considered just painting it by hand? And what are you going to do with the white lettering on the black plastic top body?

 

[Jackie1]

Not sure what it is. It’s plastic. I saw the link posted above to the metal splunger tool but I still think that’s too wide to fit in this gap also the gap is hardly even recess so I think anything I put in the side is just going to make the plastic fold over. These remotes are free and it’s ok if I ruin one but I can’t even figure out where to begin. Maybe a dremel in one corner and then try to pry after making a thin cut?

Not sure if it’s ultrasonic welded but maybe.

And the paint, it’s no big deal if it covers the lettering as those buttons are self-explanatory and no big deal to cover them since the button indicates what they do.

 

[gneill]

These remotes are free and it’s ok if I ruin one

If that's the case I'd go all neanderthal on one and drill out that potential plastic rivet. I that yields no immediate results then proceed to dremel the slot. Find out how it's held together. Then plot a more delicate strategy for the next one.

 

[Jackie1]

Ok drilling that out did nothing. Hmm. Put it in microwave for 5 min? Lol

Here’s the old remote I was able to take apart and paint. Which was easy. Not this new one!

 

[profbuxton]

A wack with a hammer will do it!

 

[jim hardy]

A good sharp pocket knife might do the trick.

Hint for your toolbox
a handy little pick for such adventures is readily fashioned from a windshield wiper blade flexor and a short piece of ½ inch wood dowel
every auto parts store has old wiper blades in the trashcan by the door
and the little stainless steel flexor in them is really handy for fabricating little tools
just grab it with a plier and yank it out

drill a hole longway through the dowel, insert the flexor and glue in place - i like epoxy
then sand the dowel to a comfortable taper
cut and shape ends of flexor with a file
it's good quality stainless spring steel that you can work cold with a file and stout plier
you'll want several with various shaped ends

For your TV remote job, sharpen an end and pry that skinny joint wide enough for a "spudger"

sorry for the digression
just i can't stand it when some plastic contraption makes a monkey out of me...

old jim

 

[Tom.G]

A wack with a hammer will do it!

Well,... yes. Especially if the hammer is banging on a single edged razor blade inserted in the seam. I have successfully used that approach many times on "non-openable", "non-repairable" items, such as laptop battery packs and, yes, remotes, that are glued/welded together. As usual when beating on metal, be sure you and anyone nearby wear safety glasses, and you may want to also wear heavy gloves and long sleeves 'just in case.' Often the easiest spot to get started is at a corner.

Of course you will have to glue the case back together afterwards. I generally use Silicone Rubber so the next time is easier.

Cheers,
Tom

 

[sophiecentaur]

And the paint, it’s no big deal if it covers the lettering

If you just want to paint the thing then a dollop of grease on each button will mask it from the spray. Failing that, why not find a white Universal Handset?

 

[anorlunda]

spring steel spudger.

Thanks. You expanded my vocabulary.

 

[Jackie1]

Well,... yes. Especially if the hammer is banging on a single edged razor blade inserted in the seam. I have successfully used that approach many times on "non-openable", "non-repairable" items, such as laptop battery packs and, yes, remotes, that are glued/welded together. As usual when beating on metal, be sure you and anyone nearby wear safety glasses, and you may want to also wear heavy gloves and long sleeves 'just in case.' Often the easiest spot to get started is at a corner.

Of course you will have to glue the case back together afterwards. I generally use Silicone Rubber so the next time is easier.

Cheers,
Tom

Ok well, wanted to say thanks again to everyone. This forum has been great for those questions no one else would have the answers to. So I did the hammer trick. Used a thin pointed knife and pounded it in the sides and kept prying it apart and finally got it off. The thing was clipped in about 8 places!

Painted it white and now just got to figure where to put the glue. I don’t have silicone rubber but so have “household goop” and e6000 which prob will work. It stay flexible after it dries.

 

[Jackie1]

 

[gneill]

Nice!

 

[Nik_2213]

I am impressed you got it apart, very impressed that it went back together and worked correctly...

FWIW, my beloved wife (RIP) had the weird knack of routinely disassembling remotes etc by accidentally dropping them...
( Often assisted by a low-flying cat...)
Reconstruction often required a wary mix of precision and brute force to 'wring' balky case catches to place...

 

[Jackie1]

Thanks. Wow, flying cats, good it wasn’t her fault :).

Yea I impressed myself as I didn’t think the knife would do it but it did. It’s barely undectectable from the sides too, looks factory still. The glue is needed though as they won’t snap back on. I ended up doing two.

 

[jim hardy]

he glue is needed though as they won’t snap back on.

might consider hot glue , the low temperature variety
so you could take it apart again.