Is the 'Natural' Food Movement Hindering Progress in the Culinary World?

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In summary, a food historian challenges the contemporary romantic views against industrialized food production, arguing that it is actually a miracle of science and economics. The idea that food should be fresh and natural is a recent belief, while our ancestors often found natural food to be unpleasant and even toxic. This concept is further explored in the author's thought-provoking essay and podcast interview.
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A food historian gives a blast of reality to contemporary romantic views against the industrialized production of food which is in fact a miracle of science and economics:"Modern, fast, processed food is a disaster. That, at least, is the message conveyed by newspapers and magazines, on television cooking programs, and in prizewinning cookbooks.

It is a mark of sophistication to bemoan the steel roller mill and supermarket bread while yearning for stone ground flour and brick ovens; to seek out heirloom apples and pumpkins while despising modern tomatoes and hybrid corn; to be hostile to agronomists who develop high-yielding modern crops and to home economists who invent new recipes for General Mills.

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That food should be fresh and natural has become an article of faith. It comes as something of a shock to realize that this is a latter-day creed. For our ancestors, natural was something quite nasty. Natural often tasted bad.
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Natural was usually indigestible. Grains, which supplied from fifty to ninety percent of the calories in most societies have to be threshed, ground, and cooked to make them edible. Other plants, including the roots and fibers that were the life support of the societies that did not eat grains, are often downright poisonous. Without careful processing green potatoes, stinging taro, and cassava bitter with prussic acid are not just indigestible, but toxic.


https://www.jacobinmag.com/2015/05/slow-food-artisanal-natural-preservatives/
 
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Excellent article.
 
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Great article. The naturalistic fallacy and traditionalistic fallacy* are intertwined.

*Did I just make that term up? I'm really not sure. Meh - either way, the "traditionalistic fallacy" is a real thing.
 
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What is "A Plea for Culinary Modernism" about?

"A Plea for Culinary Modernism" is an essay written by Rachel Laudan that argues for the importance of embracing modern culinary techniques and technologies in order to continue advancing and improving food culture.

Why is culinary modernism important?

Culinary modernism allows for the exploration and incorporation of new ingredients, techniques, and flavors, ultimately leading to a more diverse and innovative food landscape. It also allows for more efficient and sustainable food production, making it important for both culinary and environmental reasons.

What are some criticisms of culinary modernism?

Some criticisms of culinary modernism include the loss of traditional food cultures and practices, the potential for cultural appropriation, and the negative impact on small, local food producers. These concerns highlight the importance of thoughtful and responsible implementation of modern culinary practices.

How does "A Plea for Culinary Modernism" address these criticisms?

Rachel Laudan acknowledges the criticisms of culinary modernism and argues for a balanced approach that respects and incorporates traditional food cultures while also embracing the benefits of modern techniques. She also emphasizes the importance of understanding the historical context of food and not idealizing a romanticized past.

What impact has "A Plea for Culinary Modernism" had?

"A Plea for Culinary Modernism" has sparked important discussions and debates within the food industry and among food enthusiasts. It has also inspired chefs and food producers to continue pushing the boundaries of culinary innovation while also honoring and preserving traditional food cultures.

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