Like is your house insulated to updated code, double glazed widows, cavity wall insulation, Do you control you energy usage
I agree one must be comfortable in ones own home, but would it be wise if one is feeling chilly to put a sweater on rather than crank up the air con .Heh - that is the one thing I will not do: I'll conserve where reasonable, but I will not make any changes that impact my comfort. I'm willing to pay a little more to be comfortable in my own home!
...to updated code...
Flash poll: Does anyone favor the introduction of programmable communicating thermostats (PCT) into the building code, mandating PCTs into all new buildings, as California attempted in 2008?...set a reasonable heat temp in winter.
On the contrary, some US states have blocked or discontinued the Net Metering plans that oblige the utility to pay the customer retail rates for generated solar electricity. Hawaii was the first to stop NM. The large majority of the average electric bill goes to building and maintaining the infrastructure of the electric grid; only a small part goes to pay for the fuel used for actual generation. So substantially reducing the electric bill while remaining connected to the grid pushes the costs onto the neighbors.... have solar cells fitted, would have thought that all new builds should be required to have them.
We have them and save about 20% on our electricity bill.
Did you consult with PF members before sealing cracks, and updating storm windows?Well I live in a 1922 house so there are many energy issues. I have done my best to seal cracks, update storm windows on original windows and set a reasonable heat temp in winter.
hmmm I have some old thin single pane windows facing west and north. Last windows there was noticeable drafts. I tried various weather striping, but it's a pain and looks terrible. Wouldn't adding storm windows reduce that and help protect the original windows?but "storm windows" can be a waste of money, if you don't understand the physics behind them.
Yes.hmmm I have some old thin single pane windows facing west and north. Last windows there was noticeable drafts. I tried various weather striping, but it's a pain and looks terrible. Wouldn't adding storm windows reduce that and help protect the original windows?
I've done all of that, with the exception of looking at insulation codes.Like is your house insulated to updated code, double glazed widows, cavity wall insulation, Do you control you energy usage
I don't consume much power. I have a 10 watt LED bulb and I use it with a dimmer. I don't have a TV either because I felt I was becoming dumber with the stuff they had to show (specially the news) so I got rid of it.Do you control you energy usage
I think that it is better left for experimental data on a per building basis. Theoretical calculations would require knowledge of the whole building structure and materials. I think experimental would be less of a hassle since all one would need are devices to measure energy consumption of the heater and room temperature. Then running the experiment to gather the data, and make conclusions from there with it. Although it would apply only to the building and specific place that the experiment was made on.I suppose the second option is better and cheaper but I can't do the calculations to prove it.
These are often stated as controversial, but really do have straightforward answers as long as the questions are sensibly stated:There are different views on heating.
Is it generally better to heat only when you're at home (so you have to maximise heating after arrival) or is it better to set to medium temperature for all day?
I suppose the second option is better and cheaper but I can't do the calculations to prove it.
Also, is it wise to turn the heating off in rooms that are not used? How much extra heat will be needed in rooms that are heated because some heat will be lost in the cold room?
Thanks for the answer, now I understand it better. I also like the way you posted the questions, that's exactly what I meant!These are often stated as controversial, but really do have straightforward answers as long as the questions are sensibly stated:
1. Is it better to set back your house temperature during the day or does the extra energy for the "catch-up" when you return home negate the savings(or even cost more)?
Answer: It is better to set back the temperature because heat loss/gain is proportional to the temperature difference through the wall. So the total amount of heating/cooling required is lower even with a high demand "catch-up" period.
2. Is it better to close vents in rooms you aren't occupying or does the extra heat transfer betweeen the occupied and unoccupied rooms negate the savings?
Answer: It is better to close the vents in the rooms you aren't occupying. The only heat transfer that matters is the heat transfer through the outside walls, and you're reducing it.
Now, caveat: the way you worded the first question implies you mean three different setpoints instead of two (a "medium" temperature is in between a high and low?). If that's really what you meant, the question is unanswerable because it depends on the specific setpoints and times. But why would you want to do such a thing anyway? The issues should be totally independent of each other: if you are comfortable at that "medium" temperature, you should be using that when you are home.