Is Using Oversized Wire for a Cooktop Safe and Up to Code?

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Discussion Overview

The discussion revolves around the safety and code compliance of using oversized wire (2/0 aluminum) to power a 40 amp cooktop, following concerns about previous electrical work done under a kitchen island. Participants explore the implications of this setup and the potential for issues during a repair visit.

Discussion Character

  • Debate/contested
  • Technical explanation

Main Points Raised

  • One participant expresses confidence in their electrical setup, noting the use of a 90 amp 2/0 aluminum wire with a dual 40 amp breaker, but seeks confirmation on its adequacy.
  • Another participant questions how the work permit was approved by the city if the installation was not up to code, suggesting this may need to be addressed with local authorities.
  • A different participant doubts that the repair technician will recognize the difference in wiring, implying that proper voltage readings may be the primary concern for the repair.
  • One participant seeks clarification on the original question regarding the replacement of the sub-panel and expresses confusion about the term "fault" in the context of the cooktop issues.
  • A moderator indicates the thread will be closed until the original poster provides more details about the building permit related to the electrical work.

Areas of Agreement / Disagreement

Participants do not reach a consensus on the safety or code compliance of the electrical setup. There are multiple competing views regarding the adequacy of the wiring and the implications of the previous electrical work.

Contextual Notes

There are unresolved questions regarding the specifics of the electrical installation, the implications of using oversized wire, and the validity of the building permit issued for the work.

Who May Find This Useful

Individuals interested in electrical safety, code compliance, and those facing similar issues with home electrical installations may find this discussion relevant.

Hotwire73
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Im 99.9 percent sure I have this right, but I want to confirm. During surgery I paid a licensed electrical guy to run a sub panel. I found he did it wrong and not by code placing it under the kitchen island. So I decided to use the already run 90 amp 2/0 aluminum wire and put in a box to power the 40 amp cooktop. Now I did use an approved al/cu connector in the box. I do of course have dual 40 amp breaker on panel box. I have a repair guy coming out and while I feel this is adequate, I wonder if he will try to fault this to the problems in the cooktop.
 
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Hotwire73 said:
Im 99.9 percent sure I have this right, but I want to confirm. During surgery I paid a licensed electrical guy to run a sub panel. I found he did it wrong and not by code placing it under the kitchen island. So I decided to use the already run 90 amp 2/0 aluminum wire and put in a box to power the 40 amp cooktop. Now I did use an approved al/cu connector in the box. I do of course have dual 40 amp breaker on panel box. I have a repair guy coming out and while I feel this is adequate, I wonder if he will try to fault this to the problems in the cooktop.
How was the work permit signed off by the City if the construction was not to Code? Seems like this is a matter for you to bring up with the City.
 
I doubt the guy that is coming to repair the cooktop will know the difference. If he has good voltage readings it is likely all that will matter.
 
I'm not understanding what is the question.

Are you replacing a sub-panel that you've described only as "under the kitchen island" with a box containing two 40 amp breakers ?

Hotwire73 said:
I wonder if he will try to fault this to the problems in the cooktop.
fault what ?
 
I'm going to close this thread until the OP @Hotwire73 sends me a PM with details of the building permit that was issued for this electrical work in his home.
 

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