Pedaling with a D Lock: Leg Placement Solutions

[pivoxa15]

I have a road bike with a D lock. But where ever I place my lock, my legs seem to touch the lock when pedaling. Anyone else have this problem? What do you do?

 

[Cyrus]

I don't ride around with a D-lock on a road bike, AHAHAHAHAHAH.

Did you actually buy a road bike and plan to lock it around a lightpost?

Oh boy, ohhhhhhhh boy.

I give you a week before its stolen. You didnt buy that hunka junk for $500 bucks did ya?

 

[dontdisturbmycircles]

I don't know that a D-Lock will do much to be honest. I guess it depends on the D-Lock. If your going to lock up a bike of any value up here, you better take off the wheels and seat or they go missing pretty quick, if they don't just take the bike. Most bike locks are pretty pathetic if someone really wants to take your bike.

i.e.

The only place I can think of mounting it is on the top of the frame or the back of the frame, if neither of those work, I would say you're outta luck.

I use a piece of sh-- $100 bike to get anywhere where I will need to lock it up, and use my more expensive bike for recreational biking. I couldn't give a crap if the $100 bike gets stolen. But I use a chain lock that easily wraps around the frame when I ride.

 

[SiTuCrois]

i never lock my bicycle anywhere i go, supermarket, school, rarely there are thefts around but people usually lock their bikes i see.
perhaps my bike does not cost much and pretty old (only a winter, all new bike become old)

if it's worth stealing or robbing, i suggest a bank or at least hundred thousands of dollars instead of a bicycle.

 

[pivoxa15]

I don't ride around with a D-lock on a road bike, AHAHAHAHAHAH.

Did you actually buy a road bike and plan to lock it around a lightpost?

Oh boy, ohhhhhhhh boy.

I give you a week before its stolen. You didnt buy that hunka junk for $500 bucks did ya?

I did buy that bike. It rides very smooth. $500 Aus isn't bad. Lightposts are strong enough. But I was planning to lock it around posts specially designed to lock bikes. It is pretty safe where I live. I use to have a $500 mountain with a D lock and it never got stolen. Are D locks and chain locks the only options?

 

[Astronuc]

I used an old D- or U- lock where I had to disconnect the front wheel and lock it to frame or rear wheel, but only during the day. At night the bike would be in doors.

The D-lock fit into a bracket such that the plane of the lock was coplanar with the plane of the bike frame. If one's knees/legs are hitting the lock, change the orientation of the legs when pedalling. Knees should travel up and down with little or no lateral movement.

 

[Cyrus]

I did buy that bike. It rides very smooth. $500 Aus isn't bad. Lightposts are strong enough. But I was planning to lock it around posts specially designed to lock bikes. It is pretty safe where I live. I use to have a $500 mountain with a D lock and it never got stolen. Are D locks and chain locks the only options?

Wow, I really want to smack you in the forehead for buying that bike. Did you put those mud fenders on it yet?

 

[turbo]

I did buy that bike. It rides very smooth. $500 Aus isn't bad.

Everybody needs to set their expectations and their budgets, and for the $500 you probably got a better bike than most folks own. We aren't all Lance Armstrong, and if the truth were known, Lance could probably get on your bike, and smack down all but the world's most elite riders.

I've still got a 15 y/o mountain bike that I paid about $300 for, and with proper maintenance, it's still got pretty much all the original hardware, except for a chain and tires, as needed and brake pads. Mountain-bike or road-bike dilettantes would turn up their noses at it, but it's practical, rugged, and reliable. I'm not Lance Armstrong, and I don't need gear that is aimed at his market, nor anywhere near. If you enjoy your bike, that's all that counts.

 

[Cyrus]

For $400 bucks more, you could have bought yourself a much better bike with carbon forks,

http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile_combo.cfm?SKU=23950&estore_ID=&subcategory_ID=3040&CFID=6405402&CFTOKEN=30397864

But oh well. You learn the hard way. <shrug>

 

[chroot]

Everybody needs to set their expectations and their budgets, and for the $500 you probably got a better bike than most folks own. We aren't all Lance Armstrong, and if the truth were known, Lance could probably get on your bike, and smack down all but the world's most elite riders.

You are entirely correct that not everyone is (or should attempt to be) Lance Armstrong. Instead, a prospective bicycle owner should look at what he/she intends to do with a bicycle, how he/she intends to ride it, and then make an informed selection.

You apparently didn't read the thread where pivoxa15 was asking for advice. He had perhaps five experienced cyclists, including myself and cyrus, telling him not to get a road bike. The things he wants to do with a bike (riding on rough or wet pavement, riding in inclement wather, carrying cargo, using fenders, racks, lights, etc.) are not really compatible with a road racing bike. Neither is carrying around a three-pound U-lock bolted to the frame.

Of course, he pretty much ignored five pages of careful advice and just got the bike everyone was telling him not to buy anyway.

I'm not Lance Armstrong, and I don't need gear that is aimed at his market, nor anywhere near. If you enjoy your bike, that's all that counts.

Again, you're out in left field. We were all encouraging him to get a touring or cyclocross bike with better components and a more practical design.

pivoxa15, if you want my advice (not that you'd actually, you know, listen to it or anything), I'd either get a cable lock, or buy a messenger bag to carry your U-lock. Neither cable locks nor U-locks are any more secure than the other. Both can be defeated in a couple of minutes by a thief with the right tool. Often it comes down to a 50/50 chance on what kinds of tools the thieves happen to have that day.

- Warren

 

[Cyrus]

I mean, look. All the bikes on the rack are going to be a crappy POS. And then there will be your nice spankin new road bike with a D-lock on it. Hmmmm, which bike would I steal if I were a thief?

Have you ever seen a nice road bike on a bicycle rack before? I never have. People who own road bikes take it inside with them, they don't leave them outside on a bike rack!

I give it a week before its gone.

If you don't listen to anything else, listen to this: Take your bike inside with you when you go places for more than 20 mins.

 

[berkeman]

Well, based on how successful we were in the other thread, and since the OP already has the bike, and says that it's pretty safe where he will be parking the bike...

On my MTB, I have a little under-seat carrying pouch (about 1 liter total storage volume) for tire-fixing tools and small bits and pieces. I have a cable lock with a quality padlock (which can be cut with 50cm bolt cutters probably) that I coil around my seat post above the under-seat pouch. I face the padlock backwards, resting on the pouch. It stays in position usually, except for when things get pretty rough (hey, it's a mountain bike!). When it rotates in a rough section, I just reach back and rotate it to the rear-facing position again.

I lock up my MTB in some places, but not for long usually. If I'm going to run into the grocery store or something in the middle of a ride, having the lock makes it possible. But I'm well aware of the reality that it could be stolen. My MTB is probably 6-8 years old now, with a lot of mixed terrain miles. To replace it new is probably around $500-$700 at this point, so it is in the ballpark of the OP's bike quality.

 

[chroot]

On the topic of stealing bicycles, this little video is illuminating.

http://gothamist.com/2006/07/14/video_of_the_da_27.php

- Warren

 

[JasonRox]

Putting a D-Lock on a road bike is like wearing white socks with black pants. You just look like a fool.

 

[Knavish]

On the topic of stealing bicycles, this little video is illuminating.

http://gothamist.com/2006/07/14/video_of_the_da_27.php

- Warren

This has already been posted in the thread. I believe it gives an inaccurate representation, actually. The "thief" here was too casual and confident; so much so that others probably assumed that it was his own bicycle he was trying to free. No real thief would dare spend minutes conspicuously trying to break apart a lock. But the video certainly shows how easily the locks themselves can be broken.

pivoxa, if you aren't able to find a place indoors of your workplace or wherever to keep your bicycle, you might be better off just not bringing it.

 

[JasonRox]

This has already been posted in the thread. I believe it gives an inaccurate representation, actually. The "thief" here was too casual and confident; so much so that others probably assumed that it was his own bicycle he was trying to free. No real thief would dare spend minutes conspicuously trying to break apart a lock. But the video certainly shows how easily the locks themselves can be broken.

Well, that's exactly what professional thieves in the city does. Search for thieves caught in action stuff... but keep in mind that you're looking for clips that are found in the city life and not in the back alley of some small town.

 

[chroot]

I don't know, if I were a real bike thief I would do my best to make it look like it was my bike, and I was legitimately trying to recover it after losing the key to its lock.

Hopefully, if a nearby shop owner sees someone "forgetting their key" every other day, he'll eventually call the police. It's doubtful, though, that anyone will even care.

It's an exercise in what sociologists call "diluted responsibility." No one really want the hassle of trying to detain a bike thief. No one really wants to have their morning spoiled by a fist fight in the street, or a long detainment by the police while they sort everything out. Most people just look at the thief, think to themselves "well, he's probably stealing it, but it's just an old bike, and I'd rather not have my day ruined by trying to stop him." As a result, most people just walk past, hopeful that someone else will deal with it.

- Warren

 

[JasonRox]

I don't know, if I were a real bike thief I would do my best to make it look like it was my bike, and I was legitimately trying to recover it after losing the key to its lock.

Hopefully, if a nearby shop owner sees someone "forgetting their key" every other day, he'll eventually call the police. It's doubtful, though, that anyone will even care.

It's an exercise in what sociologists call "diluted responsibility." No one really want the hassle of trying to detain a bike thief. No one really wants to have their morning spoiled by a fist fight in the street, or a long detainment by the police while they sort everything out. Most people just look at the thief, think to themselves "well, he's probably stealing it, but it's just an old bike, and I'd rather not have my day ruined by trying to stop him." As a result, most people just walk past, hopeful that someone else will deal with it.

- Warren

It's true though. I personally wouldn't want to bother with it. I can see myself saying things to stop people doing inapropriate things say stealing for a bike, but after awhile if it happens a lot, I won't give a ****.

 

[pivoxa15]

For $400 bucks more, you could have bought yourself a much better bike with carbon forks,

http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile_combo.cfm?SKU=23950&estore_ID=&subcategory_ID=3040&CFID=6405402&CFTOKEN=30397864

But oh well. You learn the hard way. <shrug>

I live in Australia and that bike was from my LBS with one year of free service. You won't find a new road bike under $500 in Australia unless if the gears are changed not via the handlebar but in the lower part of the frame where the drink carriers are.

 

[pivoxa15]

You are entirely correct that not everyone is (or should attempt to be) Lance Armstrong. Instead, a prospective bicycle owner should look at what he/she intends to do with a bicycle, how he/she intends to ride it, and then make an informed selection.

You apparently didn't read the thread where pivoxa15 was asking for advice. He had perhaps five experienced cyclists, including myself and cyrus, telling him not to get a road bike. The things he wants to do with a bike (riding on rough or wet pavement, riding in inclement wather, carrying cargo, using fenders, racks, lights, etc.) are not really compatible with a road racing bike. Neither is carrying around a three-pound U-lock bolted to the frame.

Of course, he pretty much ignored five pages of careful advice and just got the bike everyone was telling him not to buy anyway.
Again, you're out in left field. We were all encouraging him to get a touring or cyclocross bike with better components and a more practical design.

pivoxa15, if you want my advice (not that you'd actually, you know, listen to it or anything), I'd either get a cable lock, or buy a messenger bag to carry your U-lock. Neither cable locks nor U-locks are any more secure than the other. Both can be defeated in a couple of minutes by a thief with the right tool. Often it comes down to a 50/50 chance on what kinds of tools the thieves happen to have that day.

- Warren

I always wanted a road bike. It so happens that I plan to use it for traveling puropses predominantly riding to uni. As well as riding for the sake of it.

I assume unis are safer than other places to park? There is actually a place in the maths building that I can park my bike. So its indoors but still it will be out of my sight for the whole day. I'd have to get there pretty early though because there are only 5 spots.

The only other places I might park are outside libraries and supermarkets in well off surburbs.

Somone said that mudguards didn't slow you down so I don't know why road racers wouldn't want to put one on on a rainy day during a race.

Are cable locks just like chain locks except with a better name? I sampled a cable lock but it didn't stretch out very well. Too tight to pull it to its full length.

 

[JasonRox]

I was wanted a road bike. It so happens that I plan to use it for traveling puropses predominantly riding to uni. As well as riding for the sake of it.

I assume unis are safer than other places to park?

The only other places I might park are outside libraries and supermarkets in well off surburbs.

Somone said that mudguards didn't slow you down so I don't know why road racers wouldn't want to put one on on a rainy day during a race.

Um... that's why I recommended a mountain bike that is designed for a lot of road use. You're describing just that.

Riding a road bike for traveling purposes just doesn't make sense and isn't practical at all. It's not meant for it whatsoever.

 

[pivoxa15]

Um... that's why I recommended a mountain bike that is designed for a lot of road use. You're describing just that.

Riding a road bike for traveling purposes just doesn't make sense and isn't practical at all. It's not meant for it whatsoever.

I've never heard of a mountain bike for road use. I've tried a mountain bike and really hated it on road.

One reason why a road bike isn't good for road purposes is the amount of breaking due to red lights and traffic. Is that the major reason why road bikes are not good for travelling?

 

[chroot]

Riding a road bike for traveling purposes just doesn't make sense and isn't practical at all. It's not meant for it whatsoever.

Well, in all fairness, I do commute on a road bike, but I happen to have some exceptionally good circumstances. I live in a place where the temperature is rarely below 45F or above 90F and where it essentially does not rain for nine straight months. I also generally don't need to carry any cargo beyond a laptop computer, and that fits nicely in my Chrome messenger bag. I don't need to lock the bike up, because I bring it into my cubicle with me. I also spent an absolute fortune on proper lightweight, high-performance lighting for this bike (almost $600 in total on lights...) so I can still do 40 mph descents at night.

All that said, I still have a second "practical" bike for running short errands around town. It's a totally different beast -- heavy and slow and, well, uninspired in the handling department -- but I can ride it with normal shoes, normal jeans, and don't have to worry (as much) about someone throwing it in their pickup truck while I'm strolling through the grocery store.

- Warren

 

[chroot]

One reason why a road bike isn't good for road purposes is the amount of breaking due to red lights and traffic. Is that the major reason why road bikes are not good for travelling?

No, the reason road bikes are poor choices for commuting are:

1) They aren't very resilient, and need a lot of attention with regards to tire inflation.

2) Most people use them with clipless pedals, which means you have to wear special shoes to ride them.

3) They're comparatively dangerous in wet weather.

4) You can't put a rack on them, so they're not very good at carrying stuff.

5) They're the most expensive bikes around, so you have to worry about theft a lot more.

If you intend to put fenders and larger tires and lights and a rack on your road bike, what you've essentially done is make your own touring bike. Nothing wrong with that, but you might end up spending more money than you needed to spend.

- Warren

 

[pivoxa15]

Well, in all fairness, I do commute on a road bike, but I happen to have some exceptionally good circumstances. I live in a place where the temperature is rarely below 45F or above 90F and where it essentially does not rain for nine straight months. I also generally don't need to carry any cargo beyond a laptop computer, and that fits nicely in my Chrome messenger bag. I don't need to lock the bike up, because I bring it into my cubicle with me. I also spent an absolute fortune on proper lightweight, high-performance lighting for this bike (almost $600 in total on lights...) so I can still do 40 mph descents at night.

All that said, I still have a second "practical" bike for running short errands around town. It's a totally different beast -- heavy and slow and, well, uninspired in the handling department -- but I can ride it with normal shoes, normal jeans, and don't have to worry (as much) about someone throwing it in their pickup truck while I'm strolling through the grocery store.

- Warren

What is a messenger bag? Different to a backpack?

You can see why I bought the cheapest new road bike available. The pedals on my bike have two sides. One for slipping in the cycling shoes. The other for normal shoes.

I will most likely ride with normal clothing and shoes with this bike. There is no room for two bikes in my single garage. So it had to be a road bike. There was no second choice for me. The question was which one. Given my circumstances, the cheapest one would do.

 

[pivoxa15]

No, the reason road bikes are poor choices for commuting are:

1) They aren't very resilient, and need a lot of attention with regards to tire inflation.

2) Most people use them with clipless pedals, which means you have to wear special shoes to ride them.

3) They're comparatively dangerous in wet weather.

4) You can't put a rack on them, so they're not very good at carrying stuff.

5) They're the most expensive bikes around, so you have to worry about theft a lot more.

If you intend to put fenders and larger tires and lights and a rack on your road bike, what you've essentially done is make your own touring bike. Nothing wrong with that, but you might end up spending more money than you needed to spend.

- Warren

Australia is pretty dry at the moment. In fact we've had a drought in recent years. The dam in my city are only 30% capacity.

Two academics I've seen ride road bikes with racks. Although they have old road bikes. The ones where the gears are not changed at the handle bars.

 

[Cyrus]

Putting a D-Lock on a road bike is like wearing white socks with black pants. You just look like a fool.

This seriously made me laugh out loud sitting in my chair!

 

[chroot]

What is a messenger bag? Different to a backpack?

Messenger bags go over one shoulder, rather than two, and are specifically designed for cycling. Their weight distribution makes them much, much more comfortable to wear while cycling. Many also feature one-hand adjustments so you can move the weight around on your back as need while you're riding.

The best on the market, IMO, are Chrome bags, available at www.chromebags.com

You can see why I bought the cheapest new road bike available. The pedals on my bike have two sides. One for slipping in the cycling shoes. The other for normal shoes.

Except that your clipless pedals probably offer no float, which you'll find to be very important if you ever go clipless.

- Warren

 

[pivoxa15]

Chroot, you wrote that road bikes are less resilient. How often does a puncture occur on a road bike when riding on relatively smooth roads? Or does it matter more on your luck? i.e rolling over something sharp. So you may not have a puncture for over say 4000km?

 

[chroot]

It depends on how well you maintain your tires and wheels. To reduce flats you must:

• Keep the tubes properly inflated (topping them off before each ride)
• Check the rim tape each time you change tubes
• Clean off your tires after going over any damp pavement or through any kind of debris
• Use good techniques for installing new tubes (avoiding putting strain on the valve stem, properly seating the tube in the channel to minimize the risk of pinch flats, etc.)

You can probably reduce your flats to less than one in 500-750 km with some care. I don't believe it's possible to get 4000 km between flats without being incredibly lucky.

The best investment you can make (for your own sanity) is a good frame pump (like the Topeak Road Morph), a good set of tire levers, and a Saturday afternoon spent learning how to change tubes and reinstall wheels. You do not want to be learning how to do this in direct sunlight, baking on the side of some highway.

- Warren

 

[Chi Meson]

I mean, look. All the bikes on the rack are going to be a crappy POS. And then there will be your nice spankin new road bike with a D-lock on it. Hmmmm, which bike would I steal if I were a thief?

Have you ever seen a nice road bike on a bicycle rack before? I never have. People who own road bikes take it inside with them, they don't leave them outside on a bike rack!

I give it a week before its gone.

If you don't listen to anything else, listen to this: Take your bike inside with you when you go places for more than 20 mins.

Hey Cyrus! Have you ridden your new bike yet? Hmm? Send a picture of you pushing 40 mph, or I WILL come and take it!

On a completely different, unrelated matter, what state do you live in?

 

[Cyrus]

I rode it last weekend. It was great. It gliddddddes down the road.


Washington, DC.

 

[moose]

I assume unis are safer than other places to park? .

I don't know about other campuses, but I know that bike theft is HUGE at UA. It's hard to find someone who hasn't had at least one bike stolen.

 

[pivoxa15]

It depends on how well you maintain your tires and wheels. To reduce flats you must:

• Keep the tubes properly inflated (topping them off before each ride)
• Check the rim tape each time you change tubes
• Clean off your tires after going over any damp pavement or through any kind of debris
• Use good techniques for installing new tubes (avoiding putting strain on the valve stem, properly seating the tube in the channel to minimize the risk of pinch flats, etc.)

You can probably reduce your flats to less than one in 500-750 km with some care. I don't believe it's possible to get 4000 km between flats without being incredibly lucky.

The best investment you can make (for your own sanity) is a good frame pump (like the Topeak Road Morph), a good set of tire levers, and a Saturday afternoon spent learning how to change tubes and reinstall wheels. You do not want to be learning how to do this in direct sunlight, baking on the side of some highway.

- Warren

I am often shocked by how often punctures occur in the Tour De France. I assume they change tubes daily. But some still puncture on the day.

 

[Cyrus]

That's why they have a team car driving around behind them with extra bikes and tires.

 

[pivoxa15]

Chroot, you said road bikes are less resilient so not good for traveling purposes. But they would be less good to ride and train with too. However racers still ride a road bike for its speed. Even though I ride for traveling, I want the speed also. So I don't mind it being less resilient. The biggest difference between riding on road and training with no traffic or red light is the amount of braking one has to do. Does that do much damage to the bike?

Having said that, I think the amount of breaking one has to do riding on a bike trail is far more, especially if they are narror with steep hills and curly bends around corners.

 

[chroot]

No, braking doesn't damage the bike. Sure, you'll have to change the brake pads more frequently, but that's not really damage.

What I meant is that road bikes require somewhat more attention and maintenance (tire inflation, derailer tension, etc.) than do other kinds of bikes. This is due to the high-pressure tires and the precise, narrow chain and 9- or 10-speed casettes. Racing wheels are also nowhere near as strong or stiff as those of mountain bikes, and will need to be trued more frequently, particularly if they are used on rough pavement.

- Warren