Power issues with power drill physics help needed please

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SUMMARY

The discussion centers on the challenges of powering a cordless drill using a variable DC power supply instead of its original battery. Users noted that while the battery provides instantaneous power and higher torque, the power supply struggles to match these performance metrics. Key issues identified include the power supply's inability to deliver sufficient current and the potential misunderstanding of the drill's voltage and amperage requirements. Recommendations include measuring the current draw during heavy use and ensuring the power supply can handle the necessary amperage for optimal performance.

PREREQUISITES
  • Understanding of electrical concepts such as voltage, current, and resistance.
  • Familiarity with multimeters for measuring voltage and current.
  • Knowledge of power supply specifications, including current capacity.
  • Basic principles of motor torque and RPM relationships.
NEXT STEPS
  • Measure the current draw of the drill under load using a multimeter.
  • Research specifications for the specific drill model to confirm voltage and current requirements.
  • Investigate the use of capacitors in power supply circuits to improve response time.
  • Explore the differences between battery-operated and AC/DC powered tools in terms of performance.
USEFUL FOR

Electricians, DIY enthusiasts, and anyone involved in power tool modifications or troubleshooting electrical supply issues for cordless drills.

  • #31
andrewrckt said:
Its a powered screwdriver...sorry for that confusion it was my bad. Here is a link to what it is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000223HR/?tag=pfamazon01-20

Ok given all the info at hand I think I can solve this one now.

The battery on that unit is not particularly big 2.4V 1.33A-hr NiCad. Even a relatively small NiCad like this can still provide quite large current, perhaps even more than 30 Amps, but 30Amps is somewhere in the right ball park.

Torque is directly related to current so one way or another (directly or indirectly) it has to be caused by too lower current. Given the low voltage operation I would therefore say that the problem is most likely due to the increased resistance caused by the added wiring and connections.

The internal resistance of a NiCad cell can easily be as low as 1/60C, so for that pack (2 cells in series) I'd expect 25 milliohms or even less. You should check the wire gauge/length you're using and it's resistance but it's quite possible that it could be more than the battery internal resistance, which would definitely have an effect on performance.
 
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  • #32
Another possible issue is the rated voltage of the battery might not match the real/actual voltage. Ie, though the rated voltage of a Nimh is 1.2V, the real nominal voltage is 1.38. So if your 2.4V pack really needs to be 2.76V, that, combined with a difficulty in getting the amperage you need could be the problem.

For 30A, you probably want #14 or #16 wires, if they are short to minimize resistive losses in the wiring.
 

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