Power issues with power drill physics help needed please

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Discussion Overview

The discussion revolves around the performance differences between a cordless drill powered by batteries and one powered by a variable DC power supply. Participants explore the physics behind the observed discrepancies in torque, response time, and current supply when using the power supply compared to the batteries.

Discussion Character

  • Technical explanation
  • Debate/contested
  • Experimental/applied

Main Points Raised

  • Some participants note that the power supply takes longer to reach the same RPMs as the battery and does not provide the same torque when performing tasks like driving screws.
  • One participant suggests measuring the current while the drill is under load to better understand the differences in performance.
  • There is a discussion about the nature of batteries and power supplies, with some arguing that batteries do not have a fixed amperage, while others emphasize the importance of internal resistance and peak current.
  • Participants debate the specifications of the drill, with some questioning the reported voltage of 2.4 V and suggesting that it may be too low for a typical drill.
  • One participant mentions the possibility of misunderstanding the amp-hour rating of the battery pack, suggesting that the power supply may not be capable of providing the necessary current for the drill.
  • Another participant raises concerns about the terminology used, questioning whether the device in question is a drill or a power screwdriver, which could affect the expected performance metrics.
  • There is a proposal to check the power rating of the drill to determine the expected current draw based on voltage.
  • A later reply introduces a related inquiry about using a drill on a boat powered by a 12V deep cycle battery, seeking feasibility insights.

Areas of Agreement / Disagreement

Participants express differing views on the nature of the power supply's performance compared to the battery, with no consensus on the underlying reasons for the discrepancies. The discussion remains unresolved regarding the specific causes of the torque and response time issues.

Contextual Notes

Participants mention various assumptions about the drill's specifications and the power supply's capabilities, but these remain unverified. There is also uncertainty regarding the terminology used to describe the device in question, which complicates the discussion.

Who May Find This Useful

This discussion may be of interest to individuals working with power tools, electrical engineering students, or hobbyists exploring the performance characteristics of battery-operated devices versus those powered by external supplies.

  • #31
andrewrckt said:
Its a powered screwdriver...sorry for that confusion it was my bad. Here is a link to what it is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000223HR/?tag=pfamazon01-20

Ok given all the info at hand I think I can solve this one now.

The battery on that unit is not particularly big 2.4V 1.33A-hr NiCad. Even a relatively small NiCad like this can still provide quite large current, perhaps even more than 30 Amps, but 30Amps is somewhere in the right ball park.

Torque is directly related to current so one way or another (directly or indirectly) it has to be caused by too lower current. Given the low voltage operation I would therefore say that the problem is most likely due to the increased resistance caused by the added wiring and connections.

The internal resistance of a NiCad cell can easily be as low as 1/60C, so for that pack (2 cells in series) I'd expect 25 milliohms or even less. You should check the wire gauge/length you're using and it's resistance but it's quite possible that it could be more than the battery internal resistance, which would definitely have an effect on performance.
 
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  • #32
Another possible issue is the rated voltage of the battery might not match the real/actual voltage. Ie, though the rated voltage of a Nimh is 1.2V, the real nominal voltage is 1.38. So if your 2.4V pack really needs to be 2.76V, that, combined with a difficulty in getting the amperage you need could be the problem.

For 30A, you probably want #14 or #16 wires, if they are short to minimize resistive losses in the wiring.
 

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