Removing chloramine with ascorbic acid

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Discussion Overview

The discussion revolves around the removal of chloramine from tap water using ascorbic acid for aquarium use. Participants explore various methods, considerations for water quality, and the implications for sensitive fish species, particularly discus. The conversation includes both theoretical and practical aspects of water treatment.

Discussion Character

  • Exploratory
  • Technical explanation
  • Debate/contested
  • Experimental/applied

Main Points Raised

  • One participant describes their method of using ascorbic acid to break down chloramine into chlorine and ammonia, questioning the duration for effective hydrolysis.
  • Another participant suggests that the reaction time may vary based on the amount of vitamin C added and inquires about the availability of test kits for measuring chloramines.
  • A different participant mentions the potential use of sodium thiosulfate as an alternative method to inactivate chlorine-based oxidizers and emphasizes the need to address ammonia removal afterward.
  • One participant shares their experience with an aquarium setup that rapidly oxidizes ammonia and expresses concerns about adding sodium or sulfate due to the preferences of their Amazonian fish.
  • Another suggestion is made regarding the use of a reverse osmosis (RO) system for achieving soft water, noting the potential costs involved.
  • One participant discusses the complexity of using water conditioners that can quickly remove harmful chemicals and the importance of considering local water quality issues, such as heavy metals in soft water areas.
  • Additional methods for controlling water hardness are proposed, including the use of Indian almond leaves and Sphagnum moss, with a note on the variability of fish sensitivity to water parameters.

Areas of Agreement / Disagreement

Participants express a range of views on the effectiveness and complexity of different water treatment methods. There is no consensus on the best approach, and multiple competing ideas are presented regarding the removal of chloramine and the management of water quality for sensitive fish species.

Contextual Notes

Participants highlight the importance of testing water parameters and the potential variability in effectiveness based on local water conditions and specific fish needs. The discussion reflects a range of assumptions about the chemistry involved and the practical implications for aquarium maintenance.

skyshrimp
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My tap water has chloramine in it, so it's not safe for my aquarium. I fill a large vat with tap water in the garden and add a few pinches of ascorbic acid to break the chloramine into chlorine and ammonia. I add the vitamin C first and then fill the vat with a garden hose. How long will the hydrolysis take to work? I usually leave it for 24 hours, but wondered if it was safe to use earlier than that.
 
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skyshrimp said:
My tap water has chloramine in it, so it's not safe for my aquarium.
You have my deep condolences. :frown:

I would expect your reaction to be fast, but it will vary with how much vit. C you add.

Are there test kits now that can measure chloramines?
Measuring things helps in problem solving and design.

I have read somewhere of other ways to do the first step. It may have involved sodium thio sulfate with inactivates many chlorine based oxidizers.

Whatever way you do that, you probably have to do something about the ammonia.
There are chemicals for sale for this (and for doing both steps at once).
A large enough biological filter would work to remove the ammonia when the chlorine is gone.
If your filter is in a nice container (filter housing), you can keep it in a chlorine free place (aquarium or ?) and move it to your treatment tank after the chlorine is removed.
 
Thanks BillTre,

My current aquarium set-up oxidises NH4 rapidly. I don't want to add sodium or sulphate as my fish are from the Amazon and prefer soft water. I would imagine hydroysis would occur faster if I added my portable air pump to the garden vat, but I was just trying to gauge how long hydroysis would happen in still water. The water circulates with the ascorbic acid awhile it fills up, then it's still till the next day. I was asking as I'm not sure if the 24 hour sitting period aids hydroxylation in any way. I have sensitive discus fish so I have to take precautions,
 
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Could an RO system work for your situation?

Where I am at in Oregon has really soft water. I ran some of that water through an RO to get the water extremely soft and could do that for months. Then the filters had to be changed. If your water is hard, they won't last so long. Most of the expense was in equipment for me.

Another thing you might want to aware of is that you can get large amounts of fish purity chemicals from aquaculture suppliers, sometimes at better prices.
 
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I have to admit this all sounds very complicated to me, water conditioners remove a variety of potentially harmful chemicals and do so very quickly, at the recommended doses any effect on the ph should be minimal, many now also include some trace elements to improve water quality. In soft water areas its worth remembering that the tap water might contain higher levels of heavy metals and other contaminates, in the UK where its still possible for old houses to have lead pipes, water companies actually add chemicals to harden the water. Using vit c and letting water stand, ideally with aeration, can have its own problems and using a conditioner makes it easier to make smaller more frequent water changes. If you don't use a conditioner, then it becomes more important to consider RO or resin based filters as the can effectively remove all sorts of contaminants.

Depending on the hardness of the water supply, there are quite a few ways to control the water hardness, the easiest are, to use Indian almond leaves or extract, something I'm a fan of as they can also help in reducing the risk of disease and there is also Blackwater tonic. These will probably reflect the processes that control water hardness in the wild or you can add some well soaked Sphagnum moss to your filter. You might have to experiment yourself with your local water, testing the parameters over time to get it right, but it would be so much simpler ultimately.

While I've kept a variety of fish that appear quite sensitive, discus have not been among them, so its entirely possible that these things may not be enough, I understand the wild caught fish are much more sensitive to the water parameters and temperature. Some species have been selectively breed for decades to improve their tolerance. These are just some thoughts really, as a breeder I very much doubt any of this information will be new, it just seems to be a great deal of work, but have fun with it.
 
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