Construction What Are the Best Types of Welding for Beginners?

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Tack welding is a temporary method used to hold pieces in place before final welding, which can be overwhelming for beginners due to the variety of techniques available. Electric rod welding is noted as the safest and least expensive option for beginners, while MIG welding is highlighted for its ease of learning and versatility. Oxyacetylene welding is considered more of a hobbyist technique, though it offers flexibility in gas mixing. For bladesmithing, forge welding is recommended, but it requires careful temperature control to prevent oxidation and ensure proper bonding. Overall, beginners are encouraged to start with MIG or stick welding for their affordability and accessibility.
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What's the most versatile welding type?
I've watched a couple of DIY videos and one of them talked about TACK-welding. I'm a little overwhelmed with how many welding types there seem to be. Oxyacetylene welding equipment seems to be the cheapest, but which one of them all is the most versatile / useful in most cases?

Also, which one is the easiest to learn and the least dangerous for a beginner to start with?

Regards.
 
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flux core welder
These are cheap and don't use tanks or anything beyond simple 120 volt AC. Watch some you-toob videos to get started.
 
sbrothy said:
I've watched a couple of DIY videos and one of them talked about TACK-welding. I'm a little overwhelmed with how many welding types there seem to be.
Tack welding is the placing of small weld spots to hold things in place before finish welding the majority of the seam. The order of progression is very important.

Welding is a profession, but can be a hobby. As you weld, the material expands, distorts, and does its best to deviate from your plans. Most of a welder's time is taken in preparation, and preventing distortion.

Electric welding has advanced since the availability of very low-cost compact electric welders. Oxyacetylene gas welding has largely been replaced by electric TIG welding. Electric welding, with flux coated rods, has been replaced by MIG welding to avoid hydrogen embrittlement.

Both MIG and TIG require an argon based shielding gas. Both employ the same low-cost, compact electric and protective equipment. That would make a good start for a mechanic. No one technique is most versatile. Use what you have that will work. When it doesn't work, learn another technique, or simply employ a professional.

One airline pilot told me he began as a welder, but gave that up because the welding machine knew more about him than he did about it.
 
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sbrothy said:
Oxyacetylene welding equipment seems to be the cheapest,
I love gas welding. But if the equipment is cheap, the gases aren't.

The cheapest is probably arc welding, but the most versatile and easiest to learn might be MIG welding.

sbrothy said:
and the least dangerous
No matter the method, any equipment that can melt steel is dangerous (molten metal can go places it shouldn't). They also either use high electrical current or highly compressed combustible: both can be dangerous as well.
 
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In terms of sheer versatility, TIG wins without question. But TIG is absolutely an artform and requires some serious equipment and practice to get the best results.

MIG welding is surprisingly beginner friendly. I’ve heard it be said that you can teach a monkey to MIG weld. Okay, not literally a monkey, but you can easily teach a person with even decent hand-eye coordination how to get quality welds out of it. But again, you do need some dedicated equipment and shielding gas.

Flux-core wire feed is the cheapest and easiest to learn but is somewhat limited in application.

Stick welding is one of the best for heavy structural work, but outside of that application it’s thoroughly outclassed by the others.

Oxyacetylene is more of a hobbyist/introductory level thing than a widely used technique. It is actually surprisingly flexible due to your ability to adjust your gas mix, and doesn’t require nearly as much PPE as arc welding, but it’s also very much an artform as well. I’ve done some oxyacetylene work before and I will freely admit that it’s both easier and harder than it looks.
 
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Don't even consider welding without really good eye protection (and safety in general, of course). A good (automatic) welding helmet will give you good visibility of the work but darken instantly and protect your eyes. I had a lot of difficulty finding proper advice and replaced the (passive) one that came with the Mig welding machine PDQ. The new helmet is much better but I'm sure there are even better ones which will give you a better view of what you're doing.
The You-tube videos are very relaxing.
 
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Thanks for the overview people. I have some thinking to do but now I have some knowledge to help me.
 
  • #10
Lnewqban said:
Regular electric rod welding of low carbon steel is the safest and least expensive to learn.

Please, ask here:
https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/ask-your-welding-questions-here.210053/page-395
If my goal is bladesmithing I expect to be working with steel with some carbon content. I’m not sure what “low carbon content” amounts to but do you think electric rod welding will be adquate?
 
  • #11
It kinda sounds like MIG welding is the place to start.
 
  • #12
Cheapest and relatively easiest to learn is arc welding, other names: MMA, SMAW, stick welding. The welding set up is more economically affordable than others. You need either transformer or inverter welding machine.

MIG (GMAW), TIG (GTAW), SMAW (MMA), FCAW are electric arc welding methods/types.
Other types are electron beam, forge, gravity, laser, soldering/brazing welding, etc.
 
  • #13
sbrothy said:
It kinda sounds like MIG welding is the place to start.
And the type of welding method applied depends on the work/material nature.
 
  • #14
DeBangis21 said:
Other types are electron beam, forge, gravity, laser, soldering/brazing welding, etc.
Given the bladesmithing aspect OP mentioned, forge welding is definitely something worth learning.

Soldering and brazing are good for use with oxyacetylene. Just run a carburizing/slightly fuel rich flame and you should get excellent results.

E-beam and laser welding… wheeeee. Those are absolutely some industrial processes that require extremely specialized and expensive equipment and facilities. I’ve had the pleasure of touring facilities for both operations and they’re damn impressive.
 
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  • #15
  • #16
DeBangis21 said:
A useful link for every technical stuff you want learn, visit www.mig-welding.co.uk
 
  • #17
sbrothy said:
TL;DR Summary: What's the most versatile welding type? *Stick welding.

I've watched a couple of DIY videos and one of them talked about TACK-welding *(=tacking: a temporary weld just to keep two pieces in place before proper welding). I'm a little overwhelmed with how many welding types there seem to be. Oxyacetylene welding equipment seems to be the cheapest, but which one of them all is the most versatile / useful in most cases? *MMA

Also, which one is the easiest to learn *SMAW* and the least dangerous for a beginner to start with? *all have some effects, just make sure to use PPE.

Regards.
 
  • #18
sbrothy said:
If my goal is bladesmithing I expect to be working with steel with some carbon content.
I would have through that bladesmithing would not suit welding because a blade needs to have even temperature (and alloy mixture) Welding is, surely, strictly local and the mix will vary all over the blade.
 
  • #19
Flyboy said:
Given the bladesmithing aspect OP mentioned, forge welding is definitely something worth learning.
Totally agree - horses for courses.
 
  • #20
sbrothy said:
I assure you I have the utmost respect for equipment that can blind or spectarcularly remove you from the gene pool.
OMG! That's one of the dangers of this art and craft.
I severally heard of fatal accidents where a tradesman is welding an empty petroleum tank without first evacuating (don't know the technical term for it) the remnant gaseous amount.
 
  • #21
Flyboy said:
Given the bladesmithing aspect OP mentioned, forge welding is definitely something worth learning.

Soldering and brazing are good for use with oxyacetylene. Just run a carburizing/slightly fuel rich flame and you should get excellent results.

E-beam and laser welding… wheeeee. Those are absolutely some industrial processes that require extremely specialized and expensive equipment and facilities. I’ve had the pleasure of touring facilities for both operations and they’re damn impressive.

Forge welding is a given. But that's more about temperature and the actual forge, no? As I understand it I don't need additional specialized apparatus (apart perhaps from a hydraulic press) to forge weld two metal surfaces together.

The laser thing was me having a pipe dream I suspect. Disregard that. :)
 
  • #22
DeBangis21 said:
And the type of welding method applied depends on the work/material nature.
As with most tools. That's why I have another dream of owning a plasma torch.
 
  • #23
sbrothy said:
Forge welding is a given. But that's more about temperature and the actual forge, no? As I understand it I don't need additional specialized apparatus (apart perhaps from a hydraulic press) to forge weld two metal surfaces together.
The problem with forge welding iron alloys, is that the carbon in the steel will burn in contact with an oxygen atmosphere.
A blacksmith's open-forge welding, only works with very low carbon steel, wrought iron.
To forge weld mild to high carbon steel, requires a closed furnace with a controlled oxygen free atmosphere.

Nitriding and carbon case-hardening of surfaces is also done in a closed furnace. The item is packed with the powder, in a mild steel box, welded closed, then placed in the furnace or kiln for 12 to 48 hours at a carefully controlled temperature. The time and temperature controls the depth of surface penetration and hardening. A cooler furnace causes less distortion of machine parts. The core of the article remains unchanged, apart from any deep heat treatment following removal.
 
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  • #24
A little welder humor seems appropriate at this point... :smile:


1717452835143.png

https://www.facebook.com/MorePerfUnion/photos/a.205298047986413/454369926412556/?type=3
 
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  • #25
sbrothy said:
If my goal is bladesmithing I expect to be working with steel with some carbon content. I’m not sure what “low carbon content” amounts to but do you think electric rod welding will be adequate?
Any type of welding is more difficult as more carbon, or higher content of other minerals and metals (as an alloy), steel has.

Once the temperature is elevated locally to induce fusion of the metal, several chemical transformations happen that tend to work against a good weld.

Once the temperature is reduced after that local fusion, many internal tensions and stresses appear, which tend to deform the part (fused localized material does not expand as solid would, but contracts itself as it cools, strongly pulling the material surrounding (more brittle for higher percent of carbon) it as it cools down.

As mentioned above, the fused metal in presence of oxygen suffers accelerated oxidation (think oxy-cut), which produces oxides and other substances that contaminate the weld (that is the reason for the use of a constant flow of inert gases completely bathing the area being welded).

Hammering steel at temperatures close to fusion can shape and create good permanent bonds of two parts, while all areas are heated and cooled at the same rate.

Please, see:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxy-fuel_welding_and_cutting

https://www.cedengineering.com/userfiles/D06-002 - Fundamentals of Gas Cutting and Welding - US.pdf

https://www.osha.gov/sites/default/files/publications/OSHA_FS-3647_Welding.pdf
 
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  • #26
sophiecentaur said:
I would have through that bladesmithing would not suit welding because a blade needs to have even temperature (and alloy mixture) Welding is, surely, strictly local and the mix will vary all over the blade.
Well, there’s some practical use cases, especially for damascus or laminate steel construction. A very common modern approach is to MIG weld the corners of a stack of plates together to make forge welding of the initial billet much more controllable. Likewise, if making a canister damascus, you will need to weld the canister mostly closed, aside from a vent for gases to escape as it heats.
 
  • #28
I'd agree but you don't buy a MIG welder to learn how to make blades; it's not a major part of the process but a helpful but not necessary bit. They had no MIG facility in Old Damascus. In fact, I would suggest that the best, most stress free way of cold welding would be to start at one end of the sandwich and contro the force and angle of the hammer blows to keep the strip straight.
Blade making is really hardly relevant for someone who is just beginning to learn metalwork. It would be trying to run before you can walk. Start with soft soldering, move on to brazing and go through the whole gamut of processes in a proper order. If you don't, you can pick up some bad habits which will limit your success in the long run. No one wants to become a Bodger. (Do as I say and not as I do.)
 
  • #29
Well, in an uncontrollable fit of shoveling money out of the window I think I actually managed to order a propane blade forge and a plasma torch.

I'm not completely sure if the plasma thingy I ordered is a plasma cutter only, and capable of nothing else, but we'll see. It was quite expensive but not excessively so, and looked quite effective. Menacing even.

The forge (which can be opened at both ends) is a blade forge made of steel with 2 propane flames, which I'm sure will be practical if I decide to make a Spartha or Katana as my first project.

Yes, I know: In actual fact my first project will - with luck - be a door stopper, or if I'm really really lucky maybe a beer opener.

I'll post some pictures when I get around to it.
 
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  • #30
Flyboy said:
Well, there’s some practical use cases, especially for damascus or laminate steel construction. A very common modern approach is to MIG weld the corners of a stack of plates together to make forge welding of the initial billet much more controllable. Likewise, if making a canister damascus, you will need to weld the canister mostly closed, aside from a vent for gases to escape as it heats.
This is exactly what I hoped the plasma torch would accomplish. That is: making the billet (after every piece have been cleaned and polished of course). I'll see...
 
  • #31
Flyboy said:
Well, there’s some practical use cases, especially for damascus or laminate steel construction. A very common modern approach is to MIG weld the corners of a stack of plates together to make forge welding of the initial billet much more controllable. Likewise, if making a canister damascus, you will need to weld the canister mostly closed, aside from a vent for gases to escape as it heats.

Sorry for coming back to this so late, but I think I've been bothered unconsciously by your canister vent hole remark there. I've never seen anyone on the program "Forged in Fire" make, or even hint of, such a hole.

Searching online I can at least see that it's not unheard of, though I naively thought you were supposed to fill the canister to the very brink using powdered metal and weld it completely shut.

Not so apparently. You care to share some experience or should I just RTFM?
 
  • #32
My concern is about the pressure buildup in a fully sealed canister as you heat it to forging temperature. I could be wrong, but it seems dangerous to have it completely enclosed.
 
  • #33
A legitimate concern surely. I'll make sure I read up on this very carefully before aspiring to a Darwin Award!

Thanks.
 
  • #34
Flyboy said:
I could be wrong, but it seems dangerous to have it completely enclosed.
You need to be a good welder, to seal a box on the first attempt. There will always be a pin-hole that will allow the escape of internal gas pressure in a small furnace, if there was not, then the faces of the box will bulge with the heat, before a seam will open sufficiently. But don't rely on that.

In big scrap iron furnaces, there are minimum hole sizes required in otherwise closed vessels entering the scrap flow. That is to prevent explosions, and high speed jets of expanding-gas, that might otherwise endanger the operators or the furnace.
 
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  • #35
My plasma torch arrived and the manual says it's also capable of TIG-welding (which I then read is the most difficult to master, just my luck). But with some training I'm sure it'll be OK.

Incidentally, the manual also says that it shouldn't be operated if the humidity exceeds 80%, which I'm pretty sure it often does here in Denmark. But in a properly ventilated shop that shouldn't be a problem. I'm not gonna be welding on the beach after all. :)
 
  • #36
sbrothy said:
But in a properly ventilated shop that shouldn't be a problem. I'm not gonna be welding on the beach after all. :)
If you have a problem with humidity, draw the coldest air available into the compressor, if possible, through a low pressure chamber. Remove condensing water from that chamber while it is cold. As the air temperature then warms, the RH will fall.
 
  • #37
OK, obviously I'm on a mission here. My thought is that if I can't find a place to set up shop myself (but of course I will), I can at least accumulate so many exotic tools that someone will invite me into their shop just to be able to use them. :)

For hobby blade forging how many tons is needed from a hydraulic press? Is 10 too little? Surely 15 must be enough, right?

Also, I better start thinking about insurance....

Got a selection of various tools from my brother. Angle grinder, hammers, random stuff. Also, I managed to secure a compressor for a pittance.

BTW, what does the manual for an anvil say?

"This way up. Don't drop on feet."? :P
 
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  • #38
sbrothy said:
Got a selection of various tools from my brother. Angle grinder, hammers, random stuff. Also, I managed to secure a compressor for a pittance.
I strongly recommend that you pause your acquisition of tools and get some actual experience of metal working. This need involve no more than a hot flame, a hammer (or two) and something to bash against. It may be fun to go through the catalogues but nothing like as much fun as making one piece of steel into another piece with a different shape (when it turns out right).
If you do a metalworking course then they won't start you on sword making, will they?

Lady driver in Manhattan to a policeman
:"How do I get to Carnegie Hal officer?"
"Practice, lady, practice."
 
  • #39
Nope. But I don't like doing stuff on other people's terms. Especially not when I have to pay for it too. All I miss now is a hydraulic press, an anvil, a bunch of small stuff like protective gear - including fire extinguishers water/foam - perhaps a humidity gauge.

I have a devious socially manipulative plan (which is already cooking) of bringing a couple of friends into it so I (we) wont kill ourselves in the process. Perhaps they might even be coerced into paying for some materials.

I tried contacting both courses, artists and actual smithies (even the iron age village I mentioned) but I've been met with little or no understanding.

Hence I'm gonna do it on my terms. Period.

EDIT: Oh, and BTW I'm not so arrogant that I think I can start with sword making. I'll have several field days finding out how the various (dangerous) tools actually work.
 
  • #40
sbrothy said:
Hence I'm gonna do it on my terms. Period.
I hope you have deep pockets. Going your own way is a good way to become disappointed in a field like metalwork. Every process you want to use needs a lot of learning and the right preparation. Brownian motion is not a good way for forward progress.

PS is this your first 'project' or do you already have equipment for other ventures?
 
  • #41
This is my first project. I'm confident that I'm going to like it though, or I wouldn't invest so much (which isn't really that much if you go through the books. I'll gladly show the final bill when I'm done and operating). The most expensive item I have yet to buy: a hydraulic press. And then I need some poor schmuck who will think it's a good idea to rent out a garage to a complete noob "smith", but with all the equipment I have I'll look very professional. :)

There's also a deeper reason I use my money this way. If not spent on something meaningful I have a tendency to burn through my money in an otherwise entirely non-productive way. I'd rather have something to show for them than nothing at all.

And then there's the social aspect to it. I can gauge people's commitment by the way they're willing to invest time and money.

I promised you pictures and you're gonna get some. Just lemme set up shop first. Next 1. I think I'm up and running.
 
  • #42
sbrothy said:
but I've been met with little or no understanding.
Perhaps there's a message in there somewhere? Do you think all those craftsmen / experts could all be wrong? Who's misunderstanding who?
 
  • #43
Trust me, I've written very polite and realistic requests. Telling them that I realise that they hardly want an amatoer running around, but maybe they knew of someone, perhaps an artist, that could provide me with a basic course with me paying of course. The problem is that I do not want to make a living of it so I don't want to take a slot from an apprentrice who means it seriously, and the courses I did manage to find was of the type where a teacher walked six pupils through making a beer opener or some such which is simply not what I want.

I realise I sound a little crazy setting up a smithy from scratch without any proper supervision or experience but don't worry, as a retired programmer I'm used to reading manuals and I'm not going turn on a potentially lethal machine without proper protection in place. Which might include another person to be able to make an important call.

So yeah, I know how this sounds. Also realise that I might be laying it on a little thick just to get a laugh out of you. ;)
 
  • #44
EDIT: THIS IS OBVIOUSLY A JOKE. See end of post!


So yeah, I’m almost ready to start in my residential apartment. I’m sure my neighbors wont mind at all:

6BF8BE2B-E239-4A9E-B00B-5A718CAD9346.jpeg


The plasma torch/TIG-welder is in the right box.

(I’m joking. I assure you! I’m not *that* insane. :) )
 
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  • #45
Planning to operate that sort of equipment in the home is very risky. Your workshop facility needs to be either out of doors or in a fireproof room with copious air extraction. The way you are going won;t impress the moderators on PF. You can probabkly expect to be shut down from PF soon. That's a shame.
 
  • #46
Seriously, did you not read the post? It says that this is obviously a joke and that I am not insane.
 
  • #47
sbrothy said:
and that I am not insane
Well, let's not go tooo far... :wink:
 
  • #48
sbrothy said:
Seriously, did you not read the post? It says that this is obviously a joke and that I am not insane.
I can just see it. The pic of your equipment in your apartment with a short description (as shown above). No joking about it as you did and someone says: Surely you don't intend to try this in your apartment do you!?!?!?!?
 
  • #49
Averagesupernova said:
I can just see it. The pic of your equipment in your apartment with a short description (as shown above). No joking about it as you did and someone says: Surely you don't intend to try this in your apartment do you!?!?!?!?
Of course not. I would think the language and articulation would be an almost dead giveaway. Especially at a place like this forum where I can assume people has at least a basic education. At the end it actually *says* I’m joking. Maybe read the entire post before going into a panic? @sophiecentaur Assuming other people are more stupid than yourself isn’t nice either. ;)

Seriously though:

I’m in the process of renting a proper commercial tool shop. I’m going to have a look at it next week.
 
  • #50
sbrothy said:
Of course not. I would think the language and articulation would be an almost dead giveaway. Especially at a place like this forum where I can assume people has at least a basic education. At the end it actually *says* I’m joking. Maybe read the entire post before going into a panic? @sophiecentaur Assuming other people are more stupid than yourself isn’t nice either. ;)

Seriously though:

I’m in the process of renting a proper commercial tool shop. I’m going to have a look at it next week.
Ok maybe I am misreading this post but I thought it should be pretty clear to you that I understood you were joking about lighting it up in your apartment. Am I to understand you think I'm in a panic over this? Trust me, even if I did think you are serious, I wouldn't care. That's just who I am.
 
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