I have also been looking in how to get higher mileage.
I got this answer about using propane:
"Check this out:
http://www.welshtec.com/
A couple of board members use this kit with great results on their daily drivers. Basically 10 to 15 mpg depending on the driving conditions. I bought a kit and plan to install it on my 99 Regal GS when I have time. It basically puts small amounts of propane gas (does not spray liquid) into the manifold which creates a more complete combustion. It uses about 2.5 gallons on propane per 400 miles on the average passenger car and should take care of the need for high octane fuel."
I found this because they were talking about propane as a power booster in their TurboBuicks and how it was letting them run much more boost and get much more power, so what is good for racing can also help low speed power...
Seems that it can.
And the following questions lead me to seach for more answers and thus led me here:
"This has been such a learning adventure.
I had talk with a person that was saying that the modern injector is able to vaporize about 95 to 100% of the gas as it sprays the fuel into the engine, and that during compression some of this vapor gas will recondense!
If that is true than getting 100% of the gas converted to vapor will still cause pollution as some of it recondences and fails to burn and will still flow out the tail pipe.
So if true a hot/cold vapor carb system will do no good. Wish I were a combustion engineer. (Hope there is one here.)
I also read that gas back in the 30s was much more easly vaporized, true or not?
As for the report I read about how a computer would get in the way of a clean burn, I was told that this is true with Ford, as they are set to keep the catalytic converter burning to burn off gas, but that GM computers will run clean up to a set point that pollution starts to load up and then tip over and add fuel to fire the cat.
True of false??
I am also informed that the GM computers “learn” and to shock them with switching chips will only defeat this learning and cause it to switch back to its base defaults.
So if I switch out the chip I will lose the better settings for messed up ones of a performance chip, or worst if I try my “getting both worlds” of a stock chip and them a hot setting of a over riding controller the system will not return to it best settings until something like 45 starts??
I thought the computer had a set bunch of commands, that each is a programmed response to certain sensor readings, change a sensor reading and the computer will always respond with the very same response, every time, no change and no learning.
I have not heard of these things learning and fine-tuning themselves.
Any one knows for sure?
As in many things, I know enough to ask the questions but do not know the answers, these are such fine and specialized knowledge."
I am also building a add on system of a old Borg Warner 3 speed over
drive transmission behind the 700r4, so that I can down shift to 2nd
and have low gears for town driving that will rev the motor fast and
use less power moving out, and can still engage the 2nd over drive
for higher town speeds and on the high way upshift to third and then
even add in the 2nd overdrive for a double over drive. The motor with
a MAF controlled system and low 2000 torque cam should be able to
maintain speed as low as say 1200 rpm.(I think and hope)
And last:
Next is to find out how I can improve the Van’s wind resistance... Ground effects kit, with air dam and a rear wing?? Upsweep or downsweep like the rear window cleaner on old station wagons, to push the air back in behind the van to kill the vacuum?
To freddy, hope you still here and finds this interesting as I do.
I hope this is the right place to talk and learn.
Thanks.
Rich