Can Anyone Help with BMW 325e Car Troubles?

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The discussion revolves around several issues with a BMW 325e recently purchased by a user’s girlfriend. The first problem involves sticky door locks, with the driver’s side functioning stiffly and the passenger side completely non-operational. A solution was found when it was revealed that the car has a central locking system, which was misunderstood as a malfunction. The second issue is intermittent starting trouble, particularly at night, where the car sometimes only clicks without starting. Suggestions include checking the starter solenoid and neutral switch, with one user sharing a similar experience that was resolved by replacing a failing battery. The third concern is a jerky transmission, described as "hiccuping" at low speeds. The user clarified that the car is a manual and mentioned that the father of the girlfriend plans to pull the transmission and engine for inspection in the summer. Overall, while some issues have been addressed, others remain unresolved, particularly the transmission problem.
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I've been looking for answers to my problems everywhere! Since this is general discussion forum I guess you guys can help.

My girlfriend recentlly purchased a 325e from a guy who looked like he'd never popped the hood.

Problem #1:

As soon as she got the car the door locks were sticky. On the driver side lock/unlock would work ok, but it was very stiff. On the passenger side nothing works, the key moves about 25deg off center and is stuck. The trunk is the only thing that seems to operate normally, both lock and unlock. We tried spraying teflon into the lock, but it seems to me deeper in the door.

Problem #2:

More recentlly the car sometimes has trouble starting. It usually happens at night and just started this winter, if that has anything to do with it. Once it turned but didn't start, but more offten it just clicks like there isn't enough power to the bat, but all lights are on at full brightness and everything else works. If we wait for 15/30 min and try again it starts no problem.

Problem #3:

She says the trans is very jerky, like it "hiccups" at lower speeds like off the line at a light, I'm not sure if WOT (wide open throttel) helps the jerkyness. Shes getting close to just replacing the thing since her dad works at a dealer and can get a good price but I thought I'd check here to see if there was a cheaper option we could explore first.

And that's all. Obviouslly I would like cheaper fixes first, but if someone knows for sure the fix it would be geatlly appreciated.

-Burg
 
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#1: No idea.
#2: Check the starter solenoid.
#3: Check the transmission fluid level.

- Warren
 
Chroot is there anything you don't know?
 
dekoi said:
Chroot is there anything you don't know?
#1: No idea.


:smile: :smile: :smile:
 
For #2, if it isn't the starter solenoid, the next thing to check is the neutral switch (assuming it's an automatic). If it's an intermittent problem, it's more likely the neutral switch than the solenoid (usually once the solenoid goes, the car just won't start).

For #1, does the car have automatic locks or regular locks? Seems odd most of the locks would all start having the same problem at once unless they are automatic and there's something sticking with the locking mechanism.
 
Problem #2:

More recentlly the car sometimes has trouble starting. It usually happens at night and just started this winter, if that has anything to do with it. Once it turned but didn't start, but more offten it just clicks like there isn't enough power to the bat, but all lights are on at full brightness and everything else works. If we wait for 15/30 min and try again it starts no problem.

I agree with chroot, except this is identical to the problem my daughter just had and it turned out to be the battery. Sometimes it would start, other times it wouldn't. It would click. All the lights, radio, etc... worked normally. When I took it in they tested the battery and told me it was going bad. I replaced it and all problems solved.

Another similar problem I had with my BMW was a bad fuse. I popped in a new fuse and it worked fine.
 
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And they say the germans are good engineers :rolleyes: :biggrin:

just kiddin, i have a love/hate relationship with my VW golf 1.8T :cry:
 
#3 - Sounds like the transmission is slipping. Could be fluid or it could be shot?

Did she test drive the thing? Or did she just look at it?
 
#1 has been solved!

Part of the problem was that the tublers just needed to be lubed, and the second part was misunderstanding. Apparentlly in '85 BMW began using a new locking system called central locking, which "double locks" the doors so you can't slim jim/wire hanger the doors open. It also disables the other locks from unlocking anything. Unknowinglly she was double locking the doors which caused the problem. Good news, i don't have to open the door panel and pull the guys out to see what's wrong. Bad news. i don't have to open the door panel and pull the guys out to see what's wrong.


#2 has been hypotiszied.

Personally thinking that it was the solenoid/starter I asked around. It turns out the e30 BMW's were semi notorious for having iffy starters. Don't really want to pull this, nor do we have the money to replace it, so she'll live with it until it gets unbarable.

#3 Unsolved

Its a manual, sorry I didn't mention this in the orgional post (could have been helpful :smile: ). Her father apparentlly has decided to pull the entire tranny engine combo this summer...as long as its not on my dime. Unfourtunetlly he is known for his flakyness in his promosies, we'll see.
 
  • #10
Well, at least now I don't feel so bad owning Fords. I didn't have to spend all that money on a BMW to have all those types of problems, and never had to deal with double-locking doors (I don't think I'd want doors you can't jimmy open...I've locked my keys in the car too many times in my life; then again, I guess nobody wants to steal a Ford Focus but a BMW might be more tempting :rolleyes:).

By the way, thanks for posting about BMWs, now you had me over at their website drooling as I was playing with the "configurator" for a car I can never afford! Well, mostly I was drooling over those seat warmers -- I've been in a few cars that had those and I REALLY want those warming seats! :biggrin:
 
  • #11
As mentioned above before you pull the starter check the battery and battery cables. A corroded cable can check fine with no load, but fail when you try to draw starting current through it.
 
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