This is discussed for instance in MTW's textbook, 'Gravitation', on pg 1126. "Do the planets and sun move on geodesics?".
The short answer is "not quite, but the approximation is very good for GR".
The longer answer is that answering the question first requires setting up an approximation scheme.
This is a subtle but interesting point. The earth, not being a test particle, contributes to the space-time geometry. The background geometry, the geometry that would exist without the Earth being present, doesn't actually exist.
It may not be obvious if one is not familiar with GR, but the coupling being talked about is just the "spin-orbit" coupling between the Earth and the moon, i.e. it is the torque caused by the moon on the tidal bulges ('multipole moments') of the Earth. Because the Earth is experiencing a torque, it's not a free body. i.e. not following a geodesic.
Not mentioned in this section of MTW, because it does not follow from linearized theory, is gravitational radiation, another mechanism that could be said to cause actual bodies to depart from geodesics.
Note that in some OTHER theories of gravity, most notably Brans-Dicke theories, geodesic motion may not be as good an approximation as it is in GR. Google for instance the "Nordtvedt effect". Which is actually a non-effect, because while it is predicted by some alternate theories of gravity it has not actually been observed.