Induction motor generator capacitor

[H012]

Hope I can get some help here. I have a 1-1/2 hp. 115/230 volt single phase induction motor I want to use as a small generator. currently it's wired for 115 volt I need help with the math to
calculate the proper capacitor/s to use. Running no load amps as a motor draws 18 amps.
Name plate states:
110/230 volt single phase
UF: 500
Rpm 1720
1.1 kv.
duty cycle 100%
Amps 18/9
4 pole
I want to use this for 110 volt output. This motor is commercial grade. I understand slip so the rpm needs to run at around 1875. Please any help would be grateful.

 

[zoki85]

P = 1100 W
V = 110 V
f = 60 Hz

 

[Windadct]

Capacitors for what ? Starting or power-factor? In your data I believe the UF:500 means it needs a 500uF Cap for starting. Also if the Gen is dedicated to this motor - switch both to the HV ( 230V ) taps. It will start easier. NEMA motor name plates have a specific requirement - so a picture may actually tell a little more.

 

[zoki85]

As far as I understand, he wants to use the motor in an async generator regime. So this isn't a "start-up" cap but cap that provides necessary reactive power in a continious regime for wanted generator output. Value of the cap isn't critical (can be somewhat higher or smaller than given by formula), but there is quite a big diference regarding voltage output: for 230 V it is cca 55 μF and for 110 V it is 240 μF(!). Low voltage costs more money :D

 

[Baluncore]

I have never seen an easy way to run a single phase induction motor as an AC generator. There is no question that it can be done with a symmetrical three phase motor.

With a 3ph motor the inductance of the phase windings can be measured by reading the inductive current flowing while the motor is stalled, rotor locked. Given the frequency required to be generated, a delta of capacitors can be connected to the motor that will be LC resonant with that motor's inductance. The motor must be spinning at a rate slightly faster than the self resonant frequency before it will self excite and begin to generate power at the resonant frequency. Overloading the motor/generator will destroy the self excitation and so self protect the generating motor.

A single phase motor has two different phase windings in an “L” arrangement that can be arranged as an asymmetrical three phase topology, so I guess it should also be possible. Getting three different capacitor values that resonate at a similar frequency might pose quite a challenge.

 

[Windadct]

Ohh - re-read and I agree, Induction motor as generator is more trouble than it is worth... esp as a one off project

 

[Baluncore]

I would experiment by connecting two motor shafts, powering one and placing AC capacitors on the other until it self excited. Initially I would do it with 3ph motors. If you really must do this then be careful of the high voltages involved. Procede carefully as follows.
Physically lock the rotor so it cannot move.
Connect the motor to the AC supply. Note the supply frequency, 60 Hz ?
Apply power for a very short period, read the motor voltage, Vm, and the motor current, Im.
Compute the inductive reactance X_L = Vm / Im.
Resonance occurs when X_L = – Xc. So you can avoid computation of the actual inductance.
Knowing that Xc = –1 / ( 2 * Pi * Hz * C )
Solve for the required C = 1 / ( 2 * Pi * Hz * X_L )

 

[H012]

I would experiment by connecting two motor shafts, powering one and placing AC capacitors on the other until it self excited. Initially I would do it with 3ph motors. If you really must do this then be careful of the high voltages involved. Procede carefully as follows.
Physically lock the rotor so it cannot move.
Connect the motor to the AC supply. Note the supply frequency, 60 Hz ?
Apply power for a very short period, read the motor voltage, Vm, and the motor current, Im.
Compute the inductive reactance X_L = Vm / Im.
Resonance occurs when X_L = – Xc. So you can avoid computation of the actual inductance.
Knowing that Xc = –1 / ( 2 * Pi * Hz * C )
Solve for the required C = 1 / ( 2 * Pi * Hz * X_L )

I agree this motor would be better if was a 3 phase. I just want this to generate auxiliary power for the LED lighting
in my house. My house is totally LED lighting with a total wattage 90 watts. I have my main generator for my freezers
and other "have to" utilities. Great input thanks to everytone.

 

[sophiecentaur]

Why not acquire an old motor car alternator? They are more plentiful than induction motors and easy to replace. Moreover - they were designed to do the job you want.

 

[zoki85]

I agree this motor would be better if was a 3 phase. I just want this to generate auxiliary power for the LED lighting in my house. My house is totally LED lighting with a total wattage 90 watts. I have my main generator for my freezers
and other "have to" utilities. Great input thanks to everytone.

So you want to power 90 watts load with 1 kW+ rated rotating electrical machine? Most likely the losses in generator will be as large as total wattage of your LED load. It can work, but you're not very economic :D

 

[jim hardy]

I agree this motor would be better if was a 3 phase. I just want this to generate auxiliary power for the LED lighting
in my house. My house is totally LED lighting with a total wattage 90 watts. I have my main generator for my freezers
and other "have to" utilities. Great input thanks to everytone.

So i guess you have separate wiring for the LED lights ?
Hmmm...
Read the nameplate data of your LED lights carefully.
What range of supply volts and frequency is acceptable to them? Modern switching supplies are surprisingly broad-minded about input power.
Sophie's car alternator might well be an economical solution.

 

[H012]

Here in new jersey any alternator with a sufficient wattage for my needs are outrageous in price. Even used.
I think I will do some looking for a 3 phase to experiment with. Seems from my reads that 3 phase is the chose of DIY'ers
Thanks again for all the input.

 

[zoki85]

think I will do some looking for a 3 phase to experiment with. Seems from my reads that 3 phase is the chose of DIY'ers

Looking for a 3 phase what?

 

[Windadct]

The LED lights are a different voltage than the "main generator" ? What do the LEDs need?

 

[zoki85]

The LED lights are a different voltage than the "main generator" ? What do the LEDs need?

Buck converter electronics you get with them?

 

[Windadct]

Yeas - some type of DC supply is what I was thinking - need the OP to update us...

 

[zoki85]

Yeas - some type of DC supply is what I was thinking - need the OP to update us...

Really no need for that. The simplest driver circuit topology which rectify has been integrated in LED bulbs since early days of commercial LED technology (looks like this) . And today you'll find more advanced topologies integrated. Hopefully OP is not looking for 100W 3-phase induction motor to power his LEDs. He will have a hard time finding such.

 

[H012]

Yeas - some type of DC supply is what I was thinking - need the OP to update us...

Believe it or not a buddy of mine who works for a water company told me last night that pumping stations change out motors
as part of maintenance that some of the motors are good it;s just they are changed after so many hours. He said I could probably
get a 10 hp 3 phase motor for free if I pick it up. As cost is a consideration. I'm not looking to spend more than it would cost just to buy a generator. I would look foolish. Getting the voltage and wave to be stable is something I can do especially with info. from guys with your knowledge. Don't know when I will update you guys depends when I get a motor. As I work a 3- 11pm shift hampers my motor shopping.

 

[zoki85]

Are you serious?
In order to use a 10 hp 3 phase induction motor as a generator, you'll need a very large cap bank, or 2-3 Hp sync generator to supply it with reactive power. Not worth trying & money knowing your load is some 0.1 kW LED lightning

 

[Mike_In_Plano]

I remember a project in the 70's where a guy used a simple single phase induction motor to kick power back into the grid. Back then, people put all manner of bad power factor on the grid, so I don't think a capacitor was even used.
But, you did need the grid to sync into. Otherwise, the motor spun, but wasn't generating.

A couple of interesting alternatives are the motors used in tread mills and old brush-less-DC motors from air conditioners.

With the 13 SEER mandate, I'd be surprised if there are any air handlers sold without one. The electrical drives are more likely to pop than the motor, so if you have a buddy that's an AC repairman, these are great. Just pull off the control and you'll have a 3 phase motor. Get a couple of full-bridge rectifiers, and you can cobble a three phase rectifier cheaper than buying one.
Careful though. These parts were intended to reach peak speeds at around 300 volts p-p (ouch!). Running the shaft slower gives less voltage and less power, so a 3/4 hp, 900 RPM type should be good for about 90 watts at about 48 volts and 90 RPM. The limiting factor is the wiring, which is only intended to take so much current.

Note that you can also use three 220 V transformers arranged in either a delta or wye to take better advantage of it's capability. Even though it's frequency decreases with speed, so does it's voltage, so the transformers remain happy. Also, rectifying three phase gives a fairly smooth current to your system.

 

[jim hardy]

I just picked up a three phase 150 volt 750 va induction appliance motor at a thrift store for six bucks.
i think it came out of a modern clothes dryer or washing machine. Presumably the computer board in the appliance had quit because the motor is pristine.
You might check your local metal recycle yard, and keep an eye on streetside trash piles.

 

[zoki85]

Finding 3-phase sync motor, several hundreds watts, would be even better. Then, no need for big caps. But such are no easy find.

 

[H012]

I remember a project in the 70's where a guy used a simple single phase induction motor to kick power back into the grid. Back then, people put all manner of bad power factor on the grid, so I don't think a capacitor was even used.
But, you did need the grid to sync into. Otherwise, the motor spun, but wasn't generating.

A couple of interesting alternatives are the motors used in tread mills and old brush-less-DC motors from air conditioners.

With the 13 SEER mandate, I'd be surprised if there are any air handlers sold without one. The electrical drives are more likely to pop than the motor, so if you have a buddy that's an AC repairman, these are great. Just pull off the control and you'll have a 3 phase motor. Get a couple of full-bridge rectifiers, and you can cobble a three phase rectifier cheaper than buying one.
Careful though. These parts were intended to reach peak speeds at around 300 volts p-p (ouch!). Running the shaft slower gives less voltage and less power, so a 3/4 hp, 900 RPM type should be good for about 90 watts at about 48 volts and 90 RPM. The limiting factor is the wiring, which is only intended to take so much current.

Note that you can also use three 220 V transformers arranged in either a delta or wye to take better advantage of it's capability. Even though it's frequency decreases with speed, so does it's voltage, so the transformers remain happy. Also, rectifying three phase gives a fairly smooth current to your system.

Thanks, Yeah I looked up the new mandated motors for AC units it's call an ac permanent split capacitor motor { PSC ] I'll study up on it.

 

[H012]

Thanks, Yeah I looked up the new mandated motors for AC units it's call an ac permanent split capacitor motor { PSC ] I'll study up on it.

I stand to be corrected: After doing some more research I found that currently AC units are using An ECM Dc motors

 

[zoki85]

What has happened with motor from first post?

 

[H012]

What has happened with motor from first post?

After reading the posts from you guys that obviously know more than I, It would not be an efficient build. I'm still looking into the 3 phase motor build But these Ecm motors also are an option although rummaging around to find one that has a bad control unit as this is the most common problem with ECM motors not the motor head itself might be hard.

 

[zoki85]

It would not be an efficient build...

So what? You said before "I just want this to generate auxiliary power for the LED lighting in my house". If you lose say 100 w , in order to power
100 W lights, you shouldn't be worried about it. And what kind of machine will provide mechanical power for your stand-alone generator?

 

[Windadct]

I still do not understand really what you are looking to do -- you have a generator for large appliances but you want to make a small one for 100W of LED lighting? Is the LED lighting custom or standard household bulbs? Why are you not using the larger generator?

 

[H012]

I still do not understand really what you are looking to do -- you have a generator for large appliances but you want to make a small one for 100W of LED lighting? Is the LED lighting custom or standard household bulbs? Why are you not using the larger generator?

This is custom emergency lighting for the house. I have a 10KV main generator. If the power goes out I'm pushing this generator at 85%. I can't afford another generator, Just got back to work. I was just trying to build something with components that can acquire free. I started out this whole thing about using a induction motor from you tube and other sites. Claims were that for every 1 hp 600 watts could be achieved. I am a machinist by trade I have no background at your level. I just want to build a
small generator that's it. Here in the NE I'm not allowed to have batteries for power in my basement. So building small generator
to charge batteries is out of the question. The reason I started this thread was to get real professional opinions and ideas
because I understand a person can't believe every DIY idea that's out there. I'm grateful for the continued posts. on this.
Hope this thread isn't becoming too boring, if it is let me know
Thanks HR

 

[Windadct]

OK - this is a lot closer to what I thought than how I read your posts...no offence. By NE you mean Nebraska?

1) 100W of load is very "light" - no pun intended.
2) Your main Gen is 10KW (watts -- I am sure not 10KV)- and 85% loaded... when all of the appliances are running - 100W is only 1%... 85 vs 86%... IMO - a non-issue to add the lights ( however I understand that as a backup - you may not want this gen running 100% of the time).
3) The no batteries in the basement rule - can probably be re-read, or challenged - the issue is when charging LEAD ACID batteries give off Hydrogen (so an understandable regulation) - but the basic battery back up sump pump I am sure violates this "rule" - does the local home depot sell these... perhaps ask them how the "kit" is allowed since these are installed in basements. Next - the "rule" has merit- you really do not want to be generating hydrogen in your basement - with no proper ventilation - with a little thinking I am sure you can find a way to ventilation. .
4) How long do you want the lights to last - etc...

OK .. getting long winded...sorry wet an rainy here in the N.E. Northeast... Really the question - what is a good and minimal cost way to supply 100W of load in a backup situation.

If you do not want to run the gen 100% of the time - find somewhere to add a Lead Acid battery and automotive inverter - 200W.

3rd to Last point -- LED lighting is efficient, at the end of the day this means it gives off little heat - if you have hot summer days, with the AC running all of the waste heat you pay for - you pay for again to remove from your house. Personally I would look to utilize the LED lighting as much as possible, even if you have a Battery charger, then inverter - then the LED lights - less heat than incandescent bulbs - so when you look at utilizing the LEDs for more than just back up - they are more valuable and perhaps worth a little more expense than "free".

2nd to last point - this is not boring, it is valuable to everyone to see the challenges faced, and how important it is to drill down to the real "problem" - I recently came across a good quote " A question well asked is already half answered"

Last - This is not professional advice... ahem...

 

[H012]

OK - this is a lot closer to what I thought than how I read your posts...no offence. By NE you mean Nebraska?

1) 100W of load is very "light" - no pun intended.
2) Your main Gen is 10KW (watts -- I am sure not 10KV)- and 85% loaded... when all of the appliances are running - 100W is only 1%... 85 vs 86%... IMO - a non-issue to add the lights ( however I understand that as a backup - you may not want this gen running 100% of the time).
3) The no batteries in the basement rule - can probably be re-read, or challenged - the issue is when charging LEAD ACID batteries give off Hydrogen (so an understandable regulation) - but the basic battery back up sump pump I am sure violates this "rule" - does the local home depot sell these... perhaps ask them how the "kit" is allowed since these are installed in basements. Next - the "rule" has merit- you really do not want to be generating hydrogen in your basement - with no proper ventilation - with a little thinking I am sure you can find a way to ventilation. .
4) How long do you want the lights to last - etc...

OK .. getting long winded...sorry wet an rainy here in the N.E. Northeast... Really the question - what is a good and minimal cost way to supply 100W of load in a backup situation.

If you do not want to run the gen 100% of the time - find somewhere to add a Lead Acid battery and automotive inverter - 200W.

3rd to Last point -- LED lighting is efficient, at the end of the day this means it gives off little heat - if you have hot summer days, with the AC running all of the waste heat you pay for - you pay for again to remove from your house. Personally I would look to utilize the LED lighting as much as possible, even if you have a Battery charger, then inverter - then the LED lights - less heat than incandescent bulbs - so when you look at utilizing the LEDs for more than just back up - they are more valuable and perhaps worth a little more expense than "free".

2nd to last point - this is not boring, it is valuable to everyone to see the challenges faced, and how important it is to drill down to the real "problem" - I recently came across a good quote " A question well asked is already half answered"

Last - This is not professional advice... ahem...

I live in the North East, central New Jersey to be exact. Here were I live floods real bad 5 inches of rain a day is a disaster. So imagine Hurricane Sandy. I ran my generator 24 hours a day for 17 days straight. The grid here is antique. Wind blows the wrong way the power goes out. It's awful. I think the inverter is a good idea for a back up. I will follow up later as I have to go to work.

 

[jim hardy]

You're a machinist ?

Try a search on ""make alternator from induction motor"

Folks are sticking PC disc drive magnets to induction motor rotors to make low voltage alternators, at other power.com
But results are mixed.

Still don't know if your LEDs Ned 110 or 12 volts...
And what wil spin your generator ?

 

[H012]

You're a machinist ?

Try a search on ""make alternator from induction motor"

Folks are sticking PC disc drive magnets to induction motor rotors to make low voltage alternators, at other power.com
But results are mixed.

Still don't know if your LEDs Ned 110 or 12 volts...
And what wil spin your generator ?

My house lighting is 120 volt Led's The emergency lights will be 24 volt. I did as a" just to try " project a ceiling fan motor
PM generator. I machined the metal ring for rotor clearance and glued 12 n52 neo magnets to the ring with a .0005 in. air gap
between the stator and the ring. My finding was that due to the small gauge wire on the rotor poles I produced at 1300 RPM's
56VDC not bad but it dropped to zero VDC if I hooked any kind of small load on it meaning these small motors can't produce
enough amps/watts to do anything. Am I right? Can't believe everything you see on you tube! The failure didn't upset me that
much, in the back of my mind even with my limited electrical knowledge about gauss/flux ect.. I had my doubts it would do very much. I am a master machinist by trade Making components is easy for me electrical engineering that's a whole different level.
Not that I'm not smart enough but at 58 yrs. old Nah. I'll leave that alone.

 

[jim hardy]

I too am 58 years...

At 24 volts a hundred watts is only around four amps, which wouldn't be a large rotating machine.

Or two lawn tractor batteries in a doghouse nearby...

A permanent magnet generator doesn't need a voltage regulator. Voltage will be proportional to rpm and if lightly loaded, reasonably constant. Two possibilities come to mind,,,,
Automobile fan motor driven overspeed
And
Treadmill DC motors I've seen are 2 hp 90 volt 6000 rpm permanent magnet machines of high quality. That'd be around 16 amps capability.
One of those driven about 24/90 X 6000 = 1600 RPM ought to be close.Got a Recycle yard nearby with an electric motor pile? MIne charges 30 cents per pound.

have fun

Old jim

 

[H012]

I too am 58 years...

At 24 volts a hundred watts is only around four amps, which wouldn't be a large rotating machine.

Or two lawn tractor batteries in a doghouse nearby...

A permanent magnet generator doesn't need a voltage regulator. Voltage will be proportional to rpm and if lightly loaded, reasonably constant. Two possibilities come to mind,,,,
Automobile fan motor driven overspeed
And
Treadmill DC motors I've seen are 2 hp 90 volt 6000 rpm permanent magnet machines of high quality. That'd be around 16 amps capability.
One of those driven about 24/90 X 6000 = 1600 RPM ought to be close.Got a Recycle yard nearby with an electric motor pile? MIne charges 30 cents per pound.

have fun

Old jim

Yea I actually converted my old drill press to a treadmill motor drive man it works great. I think I will try a treadmill motor. As a
matter of fact they are not hard to find. every 3 or 4 months the city let's people clean out their garage Usually if I drive around
I'll run across a treadmill. A power plant issue I have already to drive a treadmill motor.
Thanks for the input

 

[jim hardy]

Wow what a slip. --- I'm 68 not 58... Guess I feel younger here . Great company has that effect.

On your drill press conversion : Did you use the electronic speed control unit from treadmill ?

 

[RonL]

Wow what a slip. --- I'm 68 not 58... Guess I feel younger here . Great company has that effect.

On your drill press conversion : Did you use the electronic speed control unit from treadmill ?

At 70+ numbers start to lose meaning:D
I just love treadmill motors:) it's so easy to use a simple speed control and full bridge rectifier, but low voltage to run slow speeds has to be very carefully protected in some way.

 

[H012]

Wow what a slip. --- I'm 68 not 58... Guess I feel younger here . Great company has that effect.

On your drill press conversion : Did you use the electronic speed control unit from treadmill ?

I did use the controller from the treadmill. There is a lot of info on the MK series controllers which most treadmills use for conversion. The treadmills I do find most have bad rollers for the belt. The motor I put on the drill press is a 2.5 Hp , more than I need really but it doesn't have to work that hard. I like using the controllers with the motor because it also controls speed by sensing load.

 

[H012]

I wanted to update everyone after a month of testing. I ventured off my original reason to do some research and testing. on different motors
First: general purpose motors are a waste of time. on any level they produce 100+ volts but no power. Now to the 1 1/2 Hp 115/220v commercial motor I originally started this thread with: I started with 2/ 40uf capacitors wired parallel into the motor capacitor leads. I loaded the
capacitors with 115 volt before starting up. When I ran the motor asynchronous It produced 110 volts but when I put a 100 watt light as a load
the light output lumens fluctuated . So as a test I started adding more capacitors 40uf at a time as I have a bunch of these. as I added more capacitors the better the output stability. I arrived at 200uf total where the sine/cosign wave was stable. 56 hertz. I next unhooked the load and turned off the generator, i wanted to see if it would self excite after sitting a day. It does! I was actually surprised. My conclusion is that although an induction motor will generate with only a small capiactor to excite it the unit will not stay generating when a load is put on it. I am no electrical engineer but it seems that enough capacitance is needed also to act as a battery am I wrong? Also the 2 5/8 hp tread mill motor.
when i hooked up to a battery the to an inverter to the same 100 watt bulb stalled the 3.5 hp briggs engine In my opinion I just need a bigger power plant. maybe a 5.5 hp. Any opinions are welcome .
. .

 

[zoki85]

That's a typical behaviour of async. generator. As you spin the machine, due to remanent magnetism in iron of the machine there will be induced small emf E₀, which will start to force current I_C0 through the connected condenser and stator winding, this current will induce higher voltage etc. This process ends when output voltage reaches magnitude E_s determined by magneto-voltage curve of the machine and the condenser current line at operating frequency (see http://gifyu.com/images/SelfExcited.png). After you excite the generator, you can hook a load to it as you did. Dependence of relative voltage drop on condenser size is very steep near nominal load point, but is much less critical for relatively light loads as shown qualitatively http://gifyu.com/images/2kw-380V-50Hz-star.png

 

[H012]

That's a typical behaviour of async. generator. As you spin the machine, due to remanent magnetism in iron of the machine there will be induced small emf E₀, which will start to force current I_C0 through the connected condenser and stator winding, this current will induce higher voltage etc. This process ends when output voltage reaches magnitude E_s determined by magneto-voltage curve of the machine and the condenser current line at operating frequency (see http://gifyu.com/images/SelfExcited.png). After you excite the generator, you can hook a load to it as you did. Dependence of relative voltage drop on condenser size is very steep near nominal load point, but is much less critical for relatively light loads as shown qualitatively http://gifyu.com/images/2kw-380V-50Hz-star.png

Great read! This makes sense.The whole reason I went to this level of testing of induction motors was to educate myself and be able to set straight 95% of the myths out there on the web that presume to say yea grab an induction motor and make a generator. From all the help you guys have offered and doing my own research it's not that cut and dried so to speak Thanks, and by the way I'm still trying to get a 3 phase
motor to test. I will update if interested.

 

[jim hardy]

Also the 2 5/8 hp tread mill motor.
when i hooked up to a battery the to an inverter to the same 100 watt bulb stalled the 3.5 hp briggs engine In my opinion I just need a bigger power plant. maybe a 5.5 hp. Any opinions are welcome .

The DC motor stalled the gas engine? That really suggests that the DC machine saw a dead short across its terminals... what's in that inverter ? Is it still working?
Have you belted the machine RPM down so that it only makes 15 volts or so?

i'm confused for now...

 

[H012]

The DC motor stalled the gas engine? That really suggests that the DC machine saw a dead short across its terminals... what's in that inverter ? Is it still working?
Have you belted the machine RPM down so that it only makes 15 volts or so?

i'm confused for now...

Sorry it took awhile to get back. My clock is different due to the fact I work nights. Anyway I did have a short, when I put the end bell back on the motor I got one of the wires pinched. luckily the inverter has a protection circuit. After fixing this every thing worked great but maintaining 15volts
is problematic when I plugged in my vacuum cleaner up [ I chose the vacuum cleaner because I wanted to see what happened under a heavier draw.] at 9 amp draw the 3.5 hp Briggs motor motor struggles to maintain constant rpm. . I need to work more on the pulley ratios to run the gas engine faster. Right now the engine is only running 1300 rpms.. It's not simple as this treadmill motor really produces a lot volts as motor rpms increase. 15volts is nothing for this DC motor to produce. Thanks for the reply.

 

[jim hardy]

Briggs uses custom springs in the governor and there's a zillion different ones (I'm thinking of the vane in airflow type governors). I can see how it'd struggle to control near idle...force on vane is quite light there.

Sounds like you're mighty close.

Sorry for my intermittency of late, am traveling and access is sketchy.

Thanks for the updates, I immensely enjoy learning from others !

Old jim

 

[H012]

Briggs uses custom springs in the governor and there's a zillion different ones (I'm thinking of the vane in airflow type governors). I can see how it'd struggle to control near idle...force on vane is quite light there.

Sounds like you're mighty close.

Sorry for my intermittency of late, am traveling and access is sketchy.

Thanks for the updates, I immensely enjoy learning from others !

Old jim

That's why I want to put a bigger pulley on the treadmill motor. That way I can increase the briggs RPM up to it's most efficient power band.
Right now at 1300 engine RPM it's under it's power band which is 2600 -3600 rpm sweet spot. according to Briggs and Stratton Tech.
Will let you know how it goes. Regards Ray

 

[H012]

This is my final update to this thread. My final conclusion is yes I achieved the voltage and amperage desired to use an induction motor as a small generator. The problem is the engine has to run to hard to overcome the magnetism's clamping effect at asynchronous speed. Using a straight up induction motor as a generator cannot and would not be fuel efficient. Companies who have designed induction generators have made specific winding inclinations and arrangement to overcome problems.
I want to thank all who shared their ideas and thoughts. H. Ray Mills