Our Beautiful Universe - Photos and Videos

AI Thread Summary
The discussion focuses on sharing the beauty of the Universe through photos, videos, and animations, emphasizing the aesthetic appeal of space alongside scientific information. Participants are encouraged to post clips and images that comply with mainstream scientific guidelines, avoiding fringe theories. Notable contributions include time-lapse videos from the ISS and clips related to NASA missions, such as the Dawn and New Horizons projects. The thread also highlights the emotional impact of experiencing the vastness of space through visual media. Overall, it celebrates the intersection of art and science in showcasing the wonders of the Universe.
  • #1,201
DennisN said:
I thought telescopes was rather expensive (which they can be) , but if anybody has got a ton of money to spend, go for a couple of high-tier tele- or zoom lenses, and you'll see your money disappear faster than Millennium Falcon. :)

Therefore I will go for some decent budget lenses from budget brands and/or maybe some vintage lenses with manual focus. There are a lot of interesting sites and videos with reviews on good budget lenses.

If I had a heftier mount, something like this would be a surprisingly good deal for astrophotography:

Nikon Nikkor 600mm F/4 ED IF Manual Focus Lens $1400US

https://www.samys.com/p/Pre-Owned-L...--Pre-Owned/227434.html?origin=product-search

cm9kdWN0L21haW4vUy0wMDUyNzlfMDIuanBn_H_SH760_MW760.jpg
 
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  • #1,202
That would be a good deal! I use something similar (400/2.8 ED IF lens with optional 2x teleconverter), also purchased for not-very-much money.
 
  • #1,203
...In other news, we had three clear nights in a row over the weekend, so I worked on Orion @ 105/2 (5.4 hours @ ISO 64), incomplete background correction:

105_orion-mod-St-19380s copy.jpg


The interesting bits look much better now (100% crops):

105_orion-mod-St-19380s copy 2.jpg


105_orion-mod-St-19380s copy 4.jpg


105_orion-mod-St-19380s copy 3.jpg
 
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  • #1,205
After Orion has moved out of view, I still had an hour or two of imaging time before bed- so last night I tried imaging M51 at 800mm rather than 400mm- previously, I reasoned that the benefit of imaging at f/2.8 outweighed the benefit of higher magnification. Now that I am using AstroPixelProcessor, I am re-visiting my assumptions. I was only able to get 10 minutes (8 seconds at a time) at 800/5.6 ISO 1000, but here's 'first light' at 100%:
3_7_21-1-lpc-cbg-mod-St-672s_filtered copy.jpg


For comparison, here's what 4.7 hours of 400/2.8 ISO 500 looks like, scaled to 200%:

M51-17141s-session_1-St copy.jpg


We'll see... possibly better.
 
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  • #1,206
chemisttree said:
18-point stars? Did you shoot this stopped down a bit or wide open?

The lens was stopped down a full stop, from f/1.4 to f/2. Nikon uses 9-bladed aperture stops, so voila- 18-point starbursts!
 
  • #1,207
Amazing you get them with such a minor adjustment. Very nice, though.
 
  • #1,208
I composited the Hydrogen Alpha (9 x 5min 6400iso 600mm f/9) with the RGB (60 x 2min - 12800iso 600mm f/9) and got this:

DSC_0905-Mean-2_composite_flattened_1920.jpg


detail:

DSC_0905-Mean-2_composite_flattened_detail.jpg


3398911-1-png.png

4999558.jpeg
 
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  • #1,209
Devin-M said:
If I had a heftier mount, something like this would be a surprisingly good deal for astrophotography:
Nikon Nikkor 600mm F/4 ED IF Manual Focus Lens $1400US

Andy Resnick said:
That would be a good deal! I use something similar (400/2.8 ED IF lens with optional 2x teleconverter), also purchased for not-very-much money.

I stumbled upon a very funny picture when I was on a review page about camera lens mount adapters.
This one seems to be a small and nifty allround lens, and easy to pack :biggrin: :

a7RII-Canon-Smart-Adapters-1200mm.jpg


The handle on that lens is about as big as my cheap 70mm telescope. :biggrin:

Source: Sony a7RII Canon EF Smart Adapter Tests (Brian Smith Pictures)
 
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  • #1,210
bruha said:
Tamron 70-300/4-5.6
One of my zoom lenses is a Tamron. :smile:

DennisN said:
I already have some tele- and zoom lenses at home so I will probably get mount adapters for them.
I just looked at the tele- and zoom lenses I've got, and they are these:
  • Chinon 135mm f/2.8 (according to reviews I've seen, people say it is a very sharp lens)
  • Tamron 55-200mm f/4-5.6
  • Optomax 300mm f/5.6
I bought them some years ago at a second hand store for about $30 to $50 each. I would need two lens mount adapters for them in order to use them with the Sony A6000, and I'm considering Fotodiox M42 to Sony E and Fotodiox Canon EF to Sony E.

My vintage Tele and Zoom lenses.jpg


I've also been looking at the Olympus Teleconverter 1.7x, since I've seen it recommended many times.
If anybody has any other teleconverter to recommend, please do! :smile:

If I've got my maths* correct that teleconverter (TC) will yield the following possible magnifications with the vintage lenses above (on an APS-C sensor):
  • Chinon 135mm:
    4x (default)
    7x (with TC)
  • Tamron 55-200mm:
    1.6x - 6x (default)
    2.8x - 10x (with TC)
  • Optomax 300mm:
    9x (default)
    15x (with TC)

(*)

Magnification = Focal length * Sensor crop factor / 50 mm
(50 mm is human eye equivalent, right?)

The sensor crop factor for APS-C is 1.5x, so

Magnification = Focal length * 1.5 / 50 mm = Focal length * 0.03

Adding a teleconverter (TC) means

Magnification = Focal length * TC magnification * crop factor / 50 mm

and for a Teleconverter 1.7x and an APS-C sensor this means

Magnification = Focal length * 1.7 * 0.03 = Focal length * 0,051 = (ca) Focal length / 20
 
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  • #1,211
If you download stellarium to your computer/laptop, it will simulate the night sky, and you can input different focal lengths and sensor sizes and it can preview the framing you will get on various astronomical objects. There is a phone version but many of the features are missing and the framing function is harder to use.
 
  • #1,212
DennisN said:
(50 mm is human eye equivalent, right?)

50mm on a crop sensor is about 26 degree horizontal field of view, human eye is about 210 degrees horizontal field of view.
https://www.nikonians.org/reviews/fov-tables

Subjectively it could be argued 50mm lens on a full frame sensor shows the part of your vision which you pay most attention to and has a natural appearance. Those 50mm lenses usually have large aperatures (f/1.4) for enhanced bokeh and artistic effect, which also makes them the best option for low light photography as well since the large aperature let's in the most light.
 
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  • #1,213
DennisN said:
I stumbled upon a very funny picture when I was on a review page about camera lens mount adapters.
This one seems to be a small and nifty allround lens, and easy to pack :biggrin: :

View attachment 279440

The handle on that lens is about as big as my cheap 70mm telescope. :biggrin:

Source: Sony a7RII Canon EF Smart Adapter Tests (Brian Smith Pictures)

Heh- how about these lenses?

https://img.kentfaith.de/cache/catalog/lense/2248-canon-tv-5200mm-f-14-800x800.jpg

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photograph...sources/reflex/ReflexNikkor2000mmf11_Side.jpg
 
  • #1,214
DennisN said:
possible magnifications

Usually when I’ve heard “magnification” discussed in terms of photography it relates to the size of the object being photographed versus the size of the image of the object projected on the sensor. For example in macro photography it’s useful to achieve a 1:1 magnification ratio meaning whatever you photograph has the same dimensions projected on the sensor as its size in real life. For example, the nikon 105mm f/2.8 achieves 1:1 magnification for macro photography, and when used with a 2x teleconverter it will achieve 2:1 magnification. A big factor in this is how closely you can be to the subject and still be in focus. It so happens with the 105mm f/2.8 you can be just a couple of inches away and be in focus. Other lenses, particularly telephotos, have much longer close focus distances and as a result can’t achieve as much magnification. I have a 500mm f/5 mirror lens made by nikon in the late 60’s but you have to be over 60 feet from the subject to be in focus, so it has a lower magnification ratio than the 105mm f/2.8.
 
  • #1,215
DennisN said:
(50 mm is human eye equivalent, right?)

Pretty close- I have seen specs ranging around 40-50mm. You can verify for yourself by keeping both eyes open and looking with one eye through your camera (w/ 50mm lens)- your visual field is basically undisturbed.
 
  • #1,216
Devin-M said:
Usually when I’ve heard “magnification” discussed in terms of photography it relates to the size of the object being photographed versus the size of the image of the object projected on the sensor. For example in macro photography it’s useful to achieve a 1:1 magnification ratio meaning whatever you photograph has the same dimensions projected on the sensor as its size in real life. For example, the nikon 105mm f/2.8 achieves 1:1 magnification for macro photography, and when used with a 2x teleconverter it will achieve 2:1 magnification. A big factor in this is how closely you can be to the subject and still be in focus. It so happens with the 105mm f/2.8 you can be just a couple of inches away and be in focus. Other lenses, particularly telephotos, have much longer close focus distances and as a result can’y achieve as much magnification. I have a 500mm f/5 mirror lens made by nikon in the late 60’s but you have to be over 60 feet from the subject to be in focus, so it has a lower magnification ratio than the 105mm f/2.8.

Unlike macro (or micro) imaging, when the object distance is much much much much larger than the lens focal length, it's usually more convenient to think in terms of 'angular magnification'- comparing the angles subtended by object and image. Angular magnification (relative to unaided vision) can be easily estimated by the ratio of camera lens to eyeball lens- 400mm is about 8x angular magnification, for example.

There is also a slight complication that lens magnification varies with object distance (except for telecentric lenses). That's called 'perspective distortion' and used to great effect with ultrawide-angle and fisheye lenses.
 
  • #1,217
Devin-M said:
50mm on a crop sensor is about 26 degree horizontal field of view, human eye is about 210 degrees horizontal field of view.

That is definitely not correct- I am not able to see behind myself. A single eyeball has a (static) field of view about 30 degrees:

https://i.redd.it/5xdtk9ycnirz.jpg

Together your eyes cover a binocular field of view about 120 degrees.
 
  • #1,218
“If the analogy of the eye's retina working as a sensor is drawn upon, the corresponding concept in human (and much of animal vision) is the visual field.[3] It is defined as "the number of degrees of visual angle during stable fixation of the eyes".[4] Note that eye movements are excluded in the definition. Different animals have different visual fields, depending, among others, on the placement of the eyes. Humans have a slightly over 210-degree forward-facing horizontal arc of their visual field,[5][6] while some birds have a complete or nearly complete 360-degree visual field.”

“For example, binocular vision, which is the basis for stereopsis and is important for depth perception, covers 114 degrees (horizontally) of the visual field in humans;[7]the remaining peripheral 40 degrees on each side have no binocular vision (because only one eye can see those parts of the visual field).”

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Field_of_view#Humans_and_animals
 
  • #1,219
Devin-M said:
If you download stellarium to your computer/laptop, it will simulate the night sky, and you can input different focal lengths and sensor sizes and it can preview the framing you will get on various astronomical objects. There is a phone version but many of the features are missing and the framing function is harder to use.
Thank you very much, I did not know that!
I've got Stellarium but I did not know there was that kind of preview function, which is enormously helpful.
Splendid!
 
  • #1,220
Hello, please do you know somebody how to adjust exp. time clone and ISO in Open Camera?
I tried by phone camera Orion Trapezium with bad (suburb) ligt condition of course and there is probably just stars Orionis A,C,D I suppose and some remote star.. :confused:o_O:confused:

Thank you and lot of succes...
 

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  • #1,221
Devin-M said:
“If the analogy of the eye's retina working as a sensor is drawn upon, the corresponding concept in human (and much of animal vision) is the visual field.[3] It is defined as "the number of degrees of visual angle during stable fixation of the eyes".[4] Note that eye movements are excluded in the definition. Different animals have different visual fields, depending, among others, on the placement of the eyes. Humans have a slightly over 210-degree forward-facing horizontal arc of their visual field,[5][6] while some birds have a complete or nearly complete 360-degree visual field.”

“For example, binocular vision, which is the basis for stereopsis and is important for depth perception, covers 114 degrees (horizontally) of the visual field in humans;[7]the remaining peripheral 40 degrees on each side have no binocular vision (because only one eye can see those parts of the visual field).”

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Field_of_view#Humans_and_animals

I'm not entirely sure what we are arguing about- again, looking through a 50mm lens (35mm image format) provides a nearly perfectly matched visual field, this can be easily verified.

A really good reference for the optics of human eyes is Atchison's book:

https://www.sciencedirect.com/book/9780750637756/optics-of-the-human-eye

and a really good reference for the physiology of vision is Snowden's book:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/019957202X/?tag=pfamazon01-20
 
  • #1,222
things may look the same size to your eye through the viewfinder with a 50mm lens fitted, but on a cropped sensor you’re only seeing a 26 degree horizontal field of view compared with the more than 180 degree field of view of human vision...

he-FOV-of-a-human-with-normal-vision-Creative_Q640.jpg
 
  • #1,223
I just performed an experiment. I looked at a picture on the wall with one eye looking through the viewfinder and one eye just open. I was looking with a full frame nikon d800 with a 50mm lens and a 105mm lens to test. The picture looked significantly smaller through the viewfinder than to my eye with the 50mm and bigger through the viewfinder than eye with the 105mm. Probably on an 85mm lens the picture would look much closer to the same size through the viewfinder and through my eye. A 50mm lens on a 1/1.5x DX cropped sensor would look like a 75mm lens on a full frame FX sensor.
 
  • #1,224
Ooooh! Look what came in the mail today!

179F2D66-9112-4B31-B19F-2F7A35053659.jpeg


Oh wait... let me check something!
 
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  • #1,225
I thought so!

7654DAD8-4CDA-4D6C-AD19-0FFDE4A64991.jpeg
 
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  • #1,226
DennisN said:
This one seems to be a small and nifty allround lens, and easy to pack :biggrin:
https://thumbs.worthpoint.com/zoom/images3/1/1115/20/nikon-ai-ed-600mm-4-lens-ct-602-case_1_7392b8dd2021eac21b3bfca438743a9e.jpg

https://cdn.fstoppers.com/styles/fu...9f0936246892c7c8c3e8b3d59f4.jpg?itok=2Vft_6xE

https://thumbs.worthpoint.com/zoom/images2/1/1115/20/nikon-ai-ed-600mm-4-lens-ct-602-case_1_7392b8dd2021eac21b3bfca438743a9e.jpg

https://i1.wp.com/pixelpluck.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/sigma-200-500mm-lens.jpg
 
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  • #1,227
chemisttree said:
Ooooh! Look what came in the mail today!
chemisttree said:
I thought so!
I just had an idea: Try the filter on the cloudy sky.
Maybe it can filter out the clouds and yield a clear view through them. :smile:

(Directed at the Internet in general):

There is a bunch of anti-light pollution filters available on the net.
We don't need any more of those, thanks!

Can someone please develop an anti-cloud filter for us`?
Anyone? Anyone?
 
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  • #1,228
I ordered the other 2 filters — Sulphur II 6nm and Oxygen III 6nm to go with the Hydrogen Alpha 6nm ... this way I can collect narrowband from home and when the moon is out, then I’ll collect RGB when it’s moonless from bortle 2, then I’ll superimpose all 3 bands (R-Sulphur, G- Hydrogen, Blue- Oxygen) over the RGB to get Hubble palette + RGB.
 
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  • #1,229
Another night viewing Orion- Flame and Horsehead nebulae @ 400/2.8, 4.8 hours @ ISO 320.

horsehead--17559s-1 copy 2.jpg


And a 100% crop:

horsehead--17559s-1 copy.jpg
 
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  • #1,230
chemisttree said:
Amazing you get them with such a minor adjustment. Very nice, though.

Thanks! I needed some time to respond on this point, because you noticed a phenomenon that gets to the whole point of image stacking, or at least my approach to image stacking: dynamic range compression.

That is to say, the images that I post here are compressed from the original 32-bit/channel (in reality, around 24-bit to 26-bit) image to an 8-bit/channel image. When I post-process, my goal is to preserve and emphasize local intensity gradients, so that objects that may differ by 5 or 6 magnitudes (or more- up to about 10) maintain contrast in the final 8-bit image.

For example, two objects that differ by 6 stellar magnitudes appear as 1:250 relative brightness and two objects that differ by 10 stellar magnitudes appear as 1:10000 brightness ratio. 8-bits simply can't display either situation.

The diffraction pattern is not clearly visible in any of the original 14-bit RAW images because the amount of optical power that is diffracted is (nearly) negligible. However, by dynamic range compression, I increase the relative visibility of the diffraction spikes. In a sense, what I do is a variant of Dolby noise reduction.
 
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  • #1,231
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  • #1,232
F034CE46-265F-432D-816A-C811F9C2FBC6.jpeg


I haven’t done any stacking/processing on this yet whatsoever— it’s a straight download from dslr to iphone of one of the subs from last night of the Rosette nebula through the 500mm f/5 mirror lens - 3 minutes at 1600 iso with no filter, just straight RGB. The nebula is faintly visible toward the center of the image. I’ll edit it soon to bring out the nebula detail hidden away in the shadow information in the RAW files. I figure I’ll do the narrowband imaging when the moon is out, otherwise I’d be bored. This was moonless crystal clear bortle 2 about 30 miles from home.

95D2A239-FDB8-4F3D-BBB2-AF7D7E5B5215.jpeg


I had a but of a frustration, fell asleep and the star adventurer 2i equatorial mount had stopped running for 45 minutes so I only got about 75 minutes at 3 mins per shot.

19186EBE-A1A8-427E-95AD-6BC1EA4C4E84.jpeg


30AFE3F4-CA69-4CFA-97D9-36B44AE47615.jpeg


A9A2E206-E23F-4D15-BC5E-359541430093.png

E350A6F6-0BF8-4DA9-86BB-0060A189DA6F.jpeg
 
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  • #1,233
bruha said:
Hello, please do you know somebody how to adjust exp. time clone and ISO in Open Camera?
You mean Open Camera for Android, right?

(1) Make sure you enable "Camera2 API" in the settings, which let's you manually set exposure time, focus etc. and also let's you save photos as RAW.

(2) Setting the ISO manually is (if I remember correctly) already possible by default. Click the "-/+" button in the camera interface.

When I click the "-/+" button in Open Camera on my LG G4, a small window pops up where I can manually set ISO and shutter speed (with Camera2 API enabled in my settings).
 
  • #1,234
Hello, yes thank you i found "Camera 2 API". I just do not know which buton is "-/+" :frown: .
Can I still ask which software you use for tracking-green circles nebula mark on your image?
Thank you and lot of succes:thumbup:
 
  • #1,235
bruha said:
Can I still ask which software you use for tracking-green circles nebula mark on your image?

Upload your astro-photo to:

http://nova.astrometry.net/upload

Once uploaded it will tell you where in the sky the picture was taken and put green circles around the objects in the frame to identify them. It’s called “plate solving.”

Lately I’ve been plate solving while out in the field while pointing the camera to confirm I’m aiming in the right place — I have an adapter that let's me download pictures from the DSLR camera directly to my phone. This saves a huge amount of frustration when trying to point the camera on very small targets. Before I started doing this, on at least one occasion I thought I spent 2 hours photographing a nebula only to find I had completely missed the target. That could be very frustrating if it’s the only clear night that week and you drove an hour or more to get to a dark enough sky.

43D6B8E1-90EF-4525-B55C-4554DE1CA601.jpeg
 
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  • #1,236
I think I may have figured out why the Star Adventurer 2i equatorial mount randomly stopped turning in Star mode, and how to easily fix it (long story short: software bug).

See 4th post in this topic:
https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/738337-skywatcher-star-adventurer-pro-2i-help/

Basically when you use the app mode, and program the mount to function as an intervalometer, but then you switch back to normal star mode (non app) while using a separate intervalometer, the mount will only run for as long as you had programmed into the app mode, even though you aren’t in that mode...
?:)

95d2a239-fdb8-4f3d-bbb2-af7d7e5b5215-jpeg.jpg


By the way I stopped using the app mode because it seems to only turn while it’s taking pictures then stops so you lose your framing if you fiddle around with settings in between shots, etc, so I’ve been using the non app mode with an external intervalometer.
 
  • #1,237
bruha said:
Hello, yes thank you i found "Camera 2 API". I just do not know which buton is "-/+"
Here's the "-/+" button in the Open Camera UI (I've drawn a red circle around it):

opencameraui.jpg
 
  • #1,238
O yes, thank you very much :smile: :thumbup:
 
  • #1,239
DSC_2667-Mean-2_1920.jpg


uncropped, 500mm focal f/5, 17 x 3min (51 minutes of 75 minutes captured) + 12 darks + 40 flats, 1600 iso, full frame dslr, starry sky stacker, lightroom, photoshop, moonless bortle 2, rgb no filter

Center (RA, Dec): (97.806, 4.928)
Center (RA, hms): 06h 31m 13.549s
Center (Dec, dms): +04° 55' 40.652"
Size: 3.98 x 2.66 deg
Radius: 2.395 deg

3456819.png


3456819-1.png


5016660-1.jpeg


5016660.jpeg


detail...

DSC_2667-Mean-2_detail.jpg

19186ebe-a1a8-427e-95ad-6bc1ea4c4e84-jpeg.jpg

EDB354D6-2750-4067-81A7-E27B51C8FA3B.jpeg
 
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  • #1,240
A clear moonless weekend; this happens maybe twice a year here, so I took full advantage, imaging (among other targets) M51 @ 800/5.6, 1.7 hours @ ISO 1000. Full frame:

M51-mod-lpc-cbg-St-6308s_filtered copy.jpg


and 1:1 crop:

M51-mod-lpc-cbg-St-6308s_filtered copy2.jpg
 
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  • #1,241
4AABC37F-2A7C-4F2B-A1DB-4FAFDB0BD80D.jpeg

Heart Nebula - 20”x30” ink on metal
 
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  • #1,242
Here's what I mostly imaged last weekend- the Flame and Horsehead nebulae in Orion:

Horsehead-1.jpg


This image represents 6.5 hours of imaging @ 400/2.8, ISO 320. This field of view has been cropped to approximately that of a APS-C format image. Some of the fainter features are beginning to come into view, and the noise level is approaching tolerable- here's a 200% crop:

Horsehead-2.jpg


This represents what I can achieve post-processing with a round of noise reduction (Neat Image) followed by background subtraction (Fiji).
 
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  • #1,243
I got this link from a friend today... a page with stunning images and a LARGE mosaic of the Milky Way.

Milky Way, 12 years, 1250 hours of exposures and 125 x 22 degrees of sky

It took nearly twelve years to collect enough data for this high resolution gigapixel class mosaic image of the Milky Way. Total exposure time used is around 1250 hours between 2009 and 2021. The final photo is about 100 000 pixels wide, it has 234 individual mosaic panels stitched together and 1,7 gigapixels.

A thumbnail of the mosaic:

000-GrandeMosaic120DegreesLONG.jpg


Page: http://astroanarchy.blogspot.com/2021/03/gigapixel-mosaic-of-milky-way-1250.html
 
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  • #1,244
DennisN said:
Milky Way, 12 years, 1250 hours of exposures and 125 x 22 degrees of sky
When my package arrives I'll have to try 3 hours of exposures (narrowband Sulphur-Hydrogen-Oxygen) and 104 x 80 degrees (14mm/2.8 full-frame)...

14mm.jpg
 
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  • #1,245
DennisN said:
I got this link from a friend today... a page with stunning images and a LARGE mosaic of the Milky Way.

That's amazing! I'm not sure what is more impressive- the ability to merge 12 years' worth of images or the ability to compensate for 12 years worth of digital sensor improvements.

And now I am lusting over his 200/1.8 lens:

https://petapixel.com/2017/05/20/canon-200mm-f1-8-legendary-lens-known-eye-sauron/

And this bad-boy lens:

https://petapixel.com/2017/04/27/canon-300mm-f1-8-yes-monster-lens-exists/
 
  • #1,246
Hubble palette unlocked...

BB61064C-8F41-4EB5-A68D-0AB8F79F311E.jpeg


^ Astronomik 6nm ionized Sulphur, Hydrogen and Oxygen narrowband filters for Nikon DSLR full-frame sensor from Germany

PS it is cloudy the next couple days but there is a Sharp Shinned Hawk outside my window waiting for birds at my girlfriend’s bird feeder...

600mm f/9 1600iso 1/320sec
37BCECD0-B83C-4645-BAD1-5423E937869A.jpeg

CB4E521B-6A44-48A2-AC6F-8BFECF21FD99.jpeg

1E84C3B4-8A2F-429C-A802-7DE07A10B2AB.jpeg
 
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  • #1,247
This was supposed to be my first attempt with the narrowband 6nm clip in oxygen filter. I was under the impression it would block all light pollution and moonlight. So I attempted to image NGC 7822 which is quite a large angular size nebula with the 300mm/4.5 + 6nm oxygen narrowband filter, 4x10 minute subs at 1600 iso. It should fill a large portion of the center of the full frame image.

Well not only could I not find any nebulosity in the images after stretching, I discovered local light pollution in the form of LED street lights will go right through the filter, even though the light isn't in the frame. I made an animated gif of the 4x10minute shots I got and as the equatorial mount rotates closer and closer to a street light, & the corner of the image where the light is close to gets brighter and brighter. The target was also fairly close the horizon so probably has a lot of LED streetlight caused skyglow as well.

So oddly, even though I'm shooting narrowband, I'll probably still have to drive out to a bortle 2 to get any useful data.

Single 10minute 1600iso 300mm/4.5 sub (unmodified from camera):

DSC_3573.jpg


This is what I should've seen with this framing (from Stellarium):

ngc7822.jpg


100 Percent Crop:

DSC_3573-2_100percent.jpg


Animation of 4 subs:

DSC_3573.gif


3476811.png


3476811-1.png

Center (RA, Dec):(1.082, 67.231)
Center (RA, hms):00h 04m 19.603s
Center (Dec, dms):+67° 13' 51.863"
Size:6.85 x 4.57 deg
Radius:4.115 deg
5040716.jpeg

6B3BA998-49F2-404A-A8CD-242A2104D7AE.jpeg

D2A9C47E-DBB0-4A85-8C15-660A08C35D58.jpeg


Histogram:
FCFB5BF3-CEC8-4BEE-BEE6-09CCD84D1C5D.jpeg
 
Last edited:
  • #1,248
  • #1,249
chemisttree said:
LED streetlight
In my town they are just replacing sodium with blinding LEDs. I hardly need lights in my living room now. :oldgrumpy:
 
  • #1,250
Yeah. Did you see the huge emission in the blue? Not good for old eyes!
 

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