Proper Jump Starting Technique for Car Batteries

  • Context: High School 
  • Thread starter Thread starter Qwerto
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Discussion Overview

The discussion revolves around the proper technique for jump starting car batteries, focusing on the connections made between the batteries and the reasoning behind them. Participants explore the implications of different connection methods, safety concerns, and personal experiences with jump starting.

Discussion Character

  • Technical explanation
  • Debate/contested

Main Points Raised

  • One participant questions the logic behind connecting positive terminals first and suggests that connecting directly could drain the jumping car's battery due to low resistance.
  • Another participant explains that connecting a functional battery in parallel with a dead one is necessary and warns against reversing polarity, which could damage the system.
  • A participant shares a visual representation to clarify the circuit setup, noting that improper connections could lead to instantaneous draining of the batteries.
  • One participant reflects on the importance of understanding that the car's chassis serves as the return side of the circuit.
  • Another participant agrees that high amperage with low resistance could lead to battery drain or damage, referencing a past experience with melted cables.
  • One participant mentions their habitual method of connecting positive to positive and negative to negative, despite it not working for them in the past.
  • A later reply suggests that the choice of connection point may affect the success of jump starting, highlighting the use of specific parts of the vehicle for grounding.
  • Concerns are raised about the explosion hazard of lead-acid batteries, with a distinction made between modern sealed batteries and those with vent caps.

Areas of Agreement / Disagreement

Participants express differing views on the best practices for jump starting, with some advocating for traditional methods while others emphasize safety and the reasoning behind specific techniques. No consensus is reached on the most effective approach.

Contextual Notes

Participants mention various assumptions about battery types, connection points, and the potential hazards involved, indicating that the discussion is influenced by personal experiences and varying levels of understanding of electrical systems.

Who May Find This Useful

Individuals interested in automotive maintenance, safety practices for jump starting vehicles, and those seeking to understand the electrical systems in cars may find this discussion relevant.

Qwerto
Why in the world would you hook the two positive terminals up, and then you put 1 side of the wire on the negative and the other on the car... I don't get this. I would think that if you had them directly set up so 1 wire goes from negative to positive and the other wire goes from negative to positive also, it would drain the the jumping cars battery instantaneously. So I think that's why you hook it up to a metal part of the car, simply because you want the cricut you are creating to have some resistance. But I can't figure out for the life of me why it goes positive to positive.
 
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All that you're doing to jump a car is hooking a functional battery up to the same circuit as the dead one, in parallel. If you try to reverse the polarity, you'll fry the system (some of those batteries put out over 1,000 amps). The reason for making your last connection one of the negatives to a ground point rather than the negative terminal is that there's almost always some sparking involved. Lead-acid batteries produce hydrogen, and a spark could blow the thing up quite violently if it occurs in the venting area.
 
I have a picture here, hope this explains it. http://www.geocities.com/paintballfan8/untitled.bmp

(top battery is the dead one)
(bottom battery is the live one)
(the resistor is all the car parts that draw power from the battery; spark plugs, kicking sound system, etc.)
but he is right by saying if you were to hook them up postivie-negative, negative-positive, and they weren't leaky batteries, they would drain instantaneously.
 
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You know, it never occurred to me until just now that the OP might not be aware that the chassis/engine/body of the car is the return side of the circuit.

edit: Hmmm... just saw your edit there, Wishbone. The instantaneous draining thing is outside of my experience, but I sure do remember a melted set of cables and blown regulator from my youth. (And no, it wasn't me who did it.)
 
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Ya i think that's what would happen (although I am not in any rush to try it), because like you said there would be really high amps caused by very little resistance. So you would have a huge rush of amps that would quickly drain the battery (if it didn't burn through the wire first like "your friend" experienced :wink:)
 
Honest, man... it wasn't me. That was before I could even drive.
 
Truthfully I pretty much always just connect them positive to positive, negative to negative. I've tried doing it the way the cables say to, but it hasn't ever worked for me.
 
There's so much plastic in modern cars that it's quite possible you tried a clamp point that was insulated from the electrical system. I usually use the alternator bracket myself, but a sure bet is the bolt where the ground cable is connected to the vehicle.
As a side note, I'm pretty sure that modern sealed batteries don't present an explosion hazard. If it has vent caps, however, be very careful.
 

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