Remove Electric Window Motor from Truck Door

[tribdog]

How do you remove the electric window motor from inside the door of a truck?

 

[waht]

very carefully

 

[negitron]

Step 1: Identify the make, model and year of the vehicle.

Step 2: Purchase the appropriate Chilton or Haynes manual for said vehicle.

Step 3: Locate the chapter on window motor replacement and follow the instructions.

 

[lisab]

Step 1: Identify the make, model and year of the vehicle.

Step 2: Purchase the appropriate Chilton or Haynes manual for said vehicle.

Step 3: Locate the chapter on window motor replacement and follow the instructions.

Step 4: After stripping a bolt or two, find a friend who is a mechanic and barter (an invitation to a BBQ steak dinner would be a good trade).

 

[edward]

It always involves first removing the door handle then the inner door panel. Make sure there is no electrical problem with the window switch before removing the drive motor.

 

[brewnog]

Take the interior door furniture off, remove the door card, unplug the motor, undo the fasteners.

 

[tribdog]

The problem is I took the door panel off and I can see part of the motor, but it's inside the door and there aren't any screws. I see rivets.

 

[negitron]

That's why you get the proper repair manual. It will tell you exactly, step-by-step how to do this. A bunch of random science geeks on the internet, not so much.

 

[Moonbear]

That's why you get the proper repair manual. It will tell you exactly, step-by-step how to do this. A bunch of random science geeks on the internet, not so much.

Spoil sport! I prefer Lisa's instructions.

 

[tribdog]

I prefer random science geeks to manuals. Its this damn illiteracy of mine.

 

[tribdog]

I need to change the title of this thread. It is no longer "I need a mechanic" now it is "I need a doctor" I just cut the hell out of my finger.

 

[Moonbear]

That's usually a given in your threads. Just grab the duct tape you were going to use to reassemble your door, and wrap it around your finger instead.

 

[physics girl phd]

Step 4: After stripping a bolt or two, find a friend who is a mechanic and barter (an invitation to a BBQ steak dinner would be a good trade).

Preferably one who is cute and single... if things work out you might never need a mechanic again.

(hhhm... I'm the mechanic in our house... think I've been had!)

Aside: do be sure to disconnect the battery first:
Disconnect negative terminal before positive. (And reconnect positive before negative.)

Neglect this step and you'll really need a doctor.

 

[BobG]

Preferably one who is cute and single... if things work out you might never need a mechanic again.

(hhhm... I'm the mechanic in our house... think I've been had!)

Aside: do be sure to disconnect the battery first:
Disconnect negative terminal before positive. (And reconnect positive before negative.)

Neglect this step and you'll really need a doctor.

This is some good thinking. I'm changing my dream girl from physics nerd to auto mechanic.

Wait! You're actually good at both?! That's two of the dream assets that my dream girl would have!

Can you kill, skin, and gut a narwhal with only a kayak and a Swiss army knife?!

 

[Ivan Seeking]

Of all the things on a car that are a bugger to access, window assemblies can be some of the worst. I know that some require special tools made for the application. IIRC, it was my MG Midget that was just plain absurd unless you have hands smaller than an inch in width. Of course you needed three people to bleed the brakes as well, so that car was a pain all the way around! [at least this was true if you didn't have all of the special tools]

I used to do everything like this myself, but life is so much better when someone else is the mechanic. I won't even change the oil myself anymore.

 

[edward]

The problem is I took the door panel off and I can see part of the motor, but it's inside the door and there aren't any screws. I see rivets.

If you can get at the rivets drill them out and replace them with small bolts and nuts. A nut and bolt package may come with the replacement motor.

I need to change the title of this thread. It is no longer "I need a mechanic" now it is "I need a doctor" I just cut the hell out of my finger.

That is why mechanics charge so damn much.

 

[edward]

Of all the things on a car that are a bugger to access, window assemblies can be some of the worst. I know that some require special tools made for the application. IIRC, it was my MG Midget that was just plain absurd unless you have hands smaller than an inch in width. Of course you needed three people to bleed the brakes as well, so that car was a pain all the way around! [at least this was true if you didn't have all of the special tools]

I used to do everything like this myself, but life is so much better when someone else is the mechanic. I won't even change the oil myself anymore.

Yep it does get to where it isn't fun anymore.

I think the worst job I ever tackled was changing the heater core on my daughter's 84 Mustang. It required dropping the steering column and removing the entire dash.

At the point where I was hanging upside down with my head under the dash and my feet and ankles wrapped over the top of the seat for support I decided never again.

 

[Danger]

Professional locksmith to the rescue!
To start with, we don't need to go through the panel access procedure since you have already accomplished that. Having really skinny arms, like me, is helpful, and I have still sliced myself to ribbons accessing mechanisms within door panels.
There is no excuse in the world for having the unit riveted in. Are you sure that they aren't screws for which you can't see the heads properly from your angle of vision? Check it out with a flexible mirror and flashlight to be sure. If they are rivets, just go in with a Dremel tool and grind the heads off. Then knock the remaining stubs out with a drift punch.
If worst comes to worst, cut the whole damned panel out with a grinder or even a hacksaw, do what you have to do, then weld the panel back into place.

edit: Oh crap! I just suggested letting the Dog loose with a welder?! Delete this post, for the sake of his neighbours.

 

[Phrak]

If worst comes to worst, cut the whole damned panel out with a grinder or even a hacksaw, do what you have to do, then weld the panel back into place.

edit: Oh crap! I just suggested letting the Dog loose with a welder?! Delete this post, for the sake of his neighbours.

I just went through this. Now the gear alignment is screwy and the plastic panel is broken in two. It's a GM. Have pitty on me; I've done my part in the support of generous pensions.

 

[Equate]

How do you remove the electric window motor from inside the door of a truck?

Rip it out.


If you want it replaced give me a call. :-)

 

[Danger]

I just went through this. Now the gear alignment is screwy and the plastic panel is broken in two. It's a GM. Have pitty on me; I've done my part in the support of generous pensions.

I wasn't referring to the trim panel; that comes off with a simple clip removal tool or even a properly applied flat-head screwdriver. I meant to cut the frigging metal interior door frame away. Hell, I suspect that you could use a BBQ fork as a clip remover to pull those stupid little plastic burrs out of the metal panel. The problem is the metal itself. If I didn't have a healing factor to rival Wolverine, I'd have scars that you wouldn't be able to look at without puking, just from the hundreds upon hundreds of times that I've had to wriggle my arms in through the 'lightening holes' in the interior door panels to get at a lock cylinder or linkage containment sheath. Luckily, I just bleed like a pig for a couple of minutes, then have a scar that lasts a week or two.
The interior plastic trim panels that you mentioned are no problem at all, but you can't pull them at less than 35° F or they'll shatter. If you have to do it in winter, run the engine with the heater on full until it's nice and toasty, or move the thing indoors and warm it up before working upon it.

 

[Ivan Seeking]

Yep it does get to where it isn't fun anymore.

I think the worst job I ever tackled was changing the heater core on my daughter's 84 Mustang. It required dropping the steering column and removing the entire dash.

At the point where I was hanging upside down with my head under the dash and my feet and ankles wrapped over the top of the seat for support I decided never again.

Been there done that. Anytime you have to get into wiring in the dash, it is not likely to be a comfortable day.

Aside from whacking the old knuckles on steel in freezing temps, one of the most painful experiences that I had was while working on the very first mobile CAT scanners. At that point every system was still custom and poorly documented. The many systems on the bus required to support the Scanner, cooling systems, power systems, environmental controls, and all of the auxiliary equipment, made the underside of the vehicle a plumber's and electrician's nightmare. At one point I was trying to follow a wire [I think] that went under the vehicle into a raceway. I ended up with my head in this little cavity with just enough room to turn and see the wire of interest. I had loosen something... and I ended up jerking my head back, not realizing that there was a one-inch bolt sticking out just behind my head and dead center. When the end of the bolt hit, the pain reaction caused me to jerk forward and hit the front of my head on another piece of steel... Within about a second I had hit my head something like five times, and nearly knocked myself out cold from every direction! I probably would have laughed at myself if it didn't hurt so bad.

 

[Danger]

I probably would have laughed at myself if it didn't hurt so bad.

That's okay, Ivan; I'll laugh for you.



After all, that's what friends are for.

 

[TheStatutoryApe]

I just had the power window for the back passengers seat in my car burn out. There apparently is no way to get the window up unless I fully take apart the door (including drilling out about a dozen rivets) and either fix the thing or completely dimantle it and caulk the window in place.

 

[Danger]

Stats, I would seriously recommend, in your particular circumstance, to hit a boneyard and just pay a few bucks for a new door.

 

[TheStatutoryApe]

Stats, I would seriously recommend, in your particular circumstance, to hit a boneyard and just pay a few bucks for a new door.

Lol, someone else suggested the same thing. The car is a piece of junk though. I'm figuring on just saving up a for a new one, a new used one any way.

 

[Moonbear]

Can you get an old crank handle mechanism and just not bother trying to fix the motor? Just yank it out and put something simpler in it's place?

If it looks riveted in place, is there any chance you're still looking at part of the motor assembly? Follow whatever it's riveted to and see if that's bolted in somewhere. I've only had a door panel open once, and it wasn't in a car that had anything motorized yet. But, yeah, with the small spaces they leave you on a lot of areas of the car, you have to wonder if they're assembled by child labor. Obtaining a LONG extension for a socket wrench sometimes helps with working around those small holes and crevices where your hands won't fit.

 

[BobG]

Can you get an old crank handle mechanism and just not bother trying to fix the motor? Just yank it out and put something simpler in it's place?

What is it with having an electric motor to control the windows, anyway? Is that because drivers have their hands full talking on their cell phones and need something that can be operated with their elbow?

Those electric motors are nothing but safety hazards, anyway. My beagle was riding in the back seat with her head sticking out the window when she managed to step on the button that closed the window. What a shock that was - to be decapitated with only enough warning to let out a pathetic yelp of goodbye!

Okay, actually she wasn't completely decapitated, but the window didn't stop closing until her paws were forcibly lifted off the button and her head was trapped in the window. I still had to figure out how to free her head while driving in the middle of expressway traffic!

 

[Integral]

That is all 6'3" of me crammed under the dash of a Pontiac Gran Prix. I am replacing the fan speed control resistor board.

I have found that of the power windows I have worked on that about half the time it was not the motor but just the mechanism jamming. Before replacing the motor, while holding the power switch on, get a hand on each side of the window and push down. Or if you are inside the door wiggle the window raise/lower mechanism to be sure it is not jammed.

To change that motor in addition to armor plating your arms and fingers dig into your bag of spare body parts and insert an extra joint in your forearm.

 

[Moonbear]

What is it with having an electric motor to control the windows, anyway? Is that because drivers have their hands full talking on their cell phones and need something that can be operated with their elbow?

They're useful when you're driving alone and want to open or close windows OTHER than the driver's side window. Surely you remember the days when you'd crank down all the windows on a hot day, hit the road, and then be hunting for a place to pull over to hurry up and get them cranked up when that late-day thunderstorm hit. At least water didn't damage those old vinyl seats the way it does today's cloth seats (never mind the third degree burns from sitting on those vinyl seats while wearing shorts on a hot day after the car had been sitting out in the sun all day ).

 

[turbo]

Are you sure that the motor is toast? If the window got bound up a bit, you could easily have blown the fuse to that circuit. Sure a lot easier fix than changing out window motors.

 

[Topher925]

In newer vehicles, window motors are not meant to be replaced so they use rivets to save money. Robots can rivet things into place easily, but have a hard time with screw type fasteners.

In order to replace a that motor you are going to have to drill out the rivets. If you have a steel panel obstructing a rivet, then just drill through it also. After you find your replacement motor you can secure it into place by making a quick run to ace hardware finding a good nut/bolt combination for the old rivet holes you drilled out.

Window motors are very prone to failure as the motors themselves have no vents in the can and are completely sealed. This causes them to over heat and fill up with brush dust which eventually leads to their doom.

 

[Proton Soup]

That is all 6'3" of me crammed under the dash of a Pontiac Gran Prix. I am replacing the fan speed control resistor board.

I have found that of the power windows I have worked on that about half the time it was not the motor but just the mechanism jamming. Before replacing the motor, while holding the power switch on, get a hand on each side of the window and push down. Or if you are inside the door wiggle the window raise/lower mechanism to be sure it is not jammed.

To change that motor in addition to armor plating your arms and fingers dig into your bag of spare body parts and insert an extra joint in your forearm.

lol, it may be easier if you just unbolt the seat from the floor. only a slight bolt impalement problem to deal with then.

ditto about the mechanism. i greased mine up with lithium grease once and it solved the problem. careful about getting it where you don't want it though, it makes an absolute mess.

 

[TheStatutoryApe]

Can you get an old crank handle mechanism and just not bother trying to fix the motor? Just yank it out and put something simpler in it's place?

I'm not sure about Tribs truck but in my car the window is effectively frozen in place because of the way the system is set up. My mechanic friend tried getting into the door and moving the window up by messing with the gears but it was stuck solid. From what everyone tells me just getting the window up (never mind replacing it with a crank) would require dismantling the whole set up.

What is it with having an electric motor to control the windows, anyway?

I never wanted them. In my first car I specifically asked for manual windows. This one was an emergency replacement for the first and EVERYTHING is electric on it from the seat controls to the gas gauge.
The first experience I had with power window failure was my exs car. Someone tried to slim jim her car and couldn't do it but apparently in the process knocked the window off its tracks. When she went to roll down the window she heard what she described as a crunching noise and then the window just dropped. This apparently ruined the motor and she had to pay four or five hundred to have the motor replaced.

 

[Danger]

That is all 6'3" of me crammed under the dash of a Pontiac Gran Prix.

What a relief that you finally showed your good side; I was afraid that your face might be displayed in the photo.

Stats, I both loved and hated electric windows. If using a J-tool happened to disconnect a wire, I'd have to then remove the trim panel and reconnect the thing. On the other hand, although it happened only a couple of times, if someone happened to lock the car while it was running I had the option of going for the window button rather than only the lock button when using a Caddy-Killer.

Bob, didn't your vehicle have a driver override lock-out switch? It should have, in which case you set the windows however you like, and the local switches are disabled.

 

[Moonbear]

In newer vehicles, window motors are not meant to be replaced...

Window motors are very prone to failure ...

And then they wonder why the auto manufacturers are going bankrupt? Regardless of how expensive they want to make the replacement part, if something is prone to failure, they should make it accessible to be replaced without taking half the car apart, and certainly shouldn't permanently rivet it in place.

On the issue of dogs stepping on window buttons, that's why newer cars either have a driver's side window lock that you can prevent passengers from controlling their own windows (for the sake of children too), or have replaced those rocker buttons with ones you have to pull up on to raise the window, and pushing (or stepping) on the button only lowers it.

However, they still haven't done this for door locks yet, as my friend whose dog locked her out of her car found out. (The downside of child proofed cars is that having a back window cracked open doesn't give you access to any buttons that will unlock any doors.) And, no, she hadn't just left her dog in the car. The dog did this while she was walking around from the passenger side, where the dog had hopped in, to the driver's side.

 

[Integral]

...

On the issue of dogs stepping on window buttons, that's why newer cars either have a driver's side window lock that you can prevent passengers from controlling their own windows (for the sake of children too), or have replaced those rocker buttons with ones you have to pull up on to raise the window, and pushing (or stepping) on the button only lowers it.

...

We have this type of switches in our newer car. I still have trouble opening and closing windows, this type of switch is just not intuitive.

 

[BobG]

However, they still haven't done this for door locks yet, as my friend whose dog locked her out of her car found out. (The downside of child proofed cars is that having a back window cracked open doesn't give you access to any buttons that will unlock any doors.) And, no, she hadn't just left her dog in the car. The dog did this while she was walking around from the passenger side, where the dog had hopped in, to the driver's side.

I'm so glad I've taken to just driving without any doors. Life is so much simpler.

 

[physics girl phd]

I'm so glad I've taken to just driving without any doors. Life is so much simpler.

I'm so glad my car finally got towed away (I surrendered the title for the tow... since I never got around to "craigslisting" or "freecycling" it).

To my husband's chagrin, it didn't qualify as a "clunker" but I didn't really want a new car anyway. Door to door, it's only 1 mile to my office... and in bad weather, a free trolley gets me about 3/4th's of the way.

I hadn't driven it in about 8 months (and before that only about once a month), I hadn't renewed the registration and insurance, and it had some minor issues (due to a failed speed sensor) and pending expenses (tires, brakes + rotors, etc.) that surmounted its blue-book value by threefold. To put this in full context, it was also an aged GM (Bonneville) that really never was my style ... pimp-car carpet on the dash and cosmetically vandalized before I bought it... placing it in my grad-school era price range... but not really something I'd want to be caught driving when 2/3rds of the students around here seem to drive something MUCH better.

 

[Moonbear]

I'm so glad my car finally got towed away (I surrendered the title for the tow... since I never got around to "craigslisting" or "freecycling" it).

To my husband's chagrin, it didn't qualify as a "clunker" but I didn't really want a new car anyway. Door to door, it's only 1 mile to my office... and in bad weather, a free trolley gets me about 3/4th's of the way.

I hadn't driven it in about 8 months (and before that only about once a month), I hadn't renewed the registration and insurance, and it had some minor issues (due to a failed speed sensor) and pending expenses (tires, brakes + rotors, etc.) that surmounted its blue-book value by threefold. To put this in full context, it was also an aged GM (Bonneville) that really never was my style ... pimp-car carpet on the dash and cosmetically vandalized before I bought it... placing it in my grad-school era price range... but not really something I'd want to be caught driving when 2/3rds of the students around here seem to drive something MUCH better.

I don't want to turn this into a political debate, but I can't resist commenting on how appalling it is that an ACTUAL clunker doesn't qualify for the cash for clunkers rebate.

 

[drankin]

I've had mine seem to go out. I took the panel off, took the motor out and rotated the shaft a few times and freed itself up. I believed it seized up from lack of use. The lubricant must have settled to one side of the bearing.

Then I wired it up backwards. Up is down and down is up. LOL

 

[Danger]

Then I wired it up backwards. Up is down and down is up. LOL

That's no problem; just pull the switch and replace it upside-down...

 

[tribdog]

I think my finger in infected.

 

[Danger]

I think my finger in infected.

That doesn't make a whole lot of sense, either contextually or from a spelling standpoint.

 

[BobG]

I think my finger in infected.

That doesn't make a whole lot of sense, either contextually or from a spelling standpoint.

And it has absolutely nothing to do with car windows or power locks or pet/vehicle safety. Start your own thread!

 

[tribdog]

It has a lot to do with car windows when you consider that I already said that I cut my finger trying to change the motor in one.

 

[Danger]

My bad. I read through the thread to check, but somehow missed that post. I just saw it now.
You still need work on your typing, though.

 

[tribdog]

My bad. I read through the thread to check, but somehow missed that post. I just saw it now.
You still need work on your typing, though.

unless the finger I cut is the one I use to type "s" so I had to use an "n" instead.

 

[Danger]

unless the finger I cut is the one I use to type "s" so I had to use an "n" instead.

Nice try, but there are 4 "s"'s (and a "w"; same finger) in the post where you mentioned being cut, and 8 "s"'s in the post that I just quoted.

 

[Redbelly98]

Thank you for wearing a belt.