Building a Safe and Efficient Induction Heater Circuit: Tips and Tricks

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Discussion Overview

The discussion revolves around building induction heater circuits, focusing on both small and larger units powered by different voltage sources. Participants share tips, experiences, and safety considerations related to the design and construction of these circuits.

Discussion Character

  • Exploratory
  • Technical explanation
  • Debate/contested

Main Points Raised

  • One participant describes their experience building a small induction heater and transitioning to a more powerful unit, emphasizing the simplicity of the small circuit.
  • Another participant inquires about the safety measures in place, specifically asking if a fuse is used in the circuit.
  • There is confusion regarding the schematic showing AC mains input while discussing a battery-powered setup, prompting questions about the design's intent.
  • Concerns are raised about UL safety standards for the larger induction heater circuit, with a request for clarification on compliance.
  • Participants discuss the necessity of a protective case for the final version of the unit to prevent accidental shocks, although there is disagreement about the shock hazard level of 15V.

Areas of Agreement / Disagreement

Participants express differing views on safety standards and the shock hazard associated with 15V. There is no consensus on the specific UL safety standard compliance or the necessity of certain safety features.

Contextual Notes

There are unresolved questions regarding the schematic's representation of power sources and the implications for safety compliance. The discussion reflects a variety of assumptions about circuit design and safety practices.

gary350
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TL;DR
FUN induction heater circuit.
If you have not built an induction heater yet it is a fun project. Build the small circuit with 6 yellow capacitors first.

Induction heater is a fun project. I built a small induction heater then I wanted a more powerful one. A small unit is so simple you can build it in about 2 hours work. A larger more powerful unit will take longer. If you take your induction camping it works great to run it on your 12v car battery.

I built my largest induction heater from a microwave oven transformer. Remove the 2000v secondary coil, replace it with enough #12 solid copper wire to get 12v to 15vdc. I have about 15 MOTs they all have 100 turns on the primary coil. Math is easy for the secondary coil running on 120vac on the primary = about .833 vac per turn on the secondary.

I have not experimented with a flat induction coil the value must be 2. uh minimum value. Buy a, resistor, capacitor, inductor, meter about $35. on ebay to test your coils. The choke coil needs to be large enough not to saturate or it will stop working at a certain power range then current suddenly goes to maximum then mosfets explode. Very low internal mosfet resistance works best it prevents mosfets from over heating easy.

Here is my induction circuit, leave off the transformers so you can run it on a car battery if that is what you want. My small induction heater will heat a 1/4" steel rod red hot in about 3 minutes. My 1400w induction heater heats a 1/4" steel rod red hot in 7 seconds. You don't need 1400w to heat food it will burn before food has time to cook.

My induction heaters all have the same circuit drawing for the exception of larger power supplies and larger L2 choke coil for higher power units. If you change #10 circuit copper wire to a smaller wire skin effect goes up and the circuit efficiency goes down. My induction heat is several times smaller than the 1400w power supply as you can see in the photos.

Be sure to connect the caps in a box shape like a Rail Gun cap bank charge and discharge is much faster. Build the small unit with the 6 yellow color caps first. I use insulated Romex solid copper house wire. Be sure to use insulated wire if you accidently touch the osc coil with metal osc stops then 1 of the mosfets will explode.

You can build the small circuit for $15. The larger circuit only cost be extra for a 100a bridge rectifier and the meter. I salvage parts from old TV and old computer power supplies. 10 mosfets are $6 free shipping on ebay if you order from a seller in China.
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I'm not able to open your attachments. It's good that you are running this off of a safe low voltage like 12V. You do have a fuse in series between the battery and your device, right?
 
I accidently posted this 2 times not sure what happened?????
 
gary350 said:
I accidently posted this 2 times not sure what happened?????
Ah, I can see the schematic now. How come it shows AC Mains input at the left if you are running it off of a battery?
 
berkeman said:
Ah, I can see the schematic now. How come it shows AC Mains input at the left if you are running it off of a battery?
The circuit with the yellow color caps is for a 12v car battery or a 12v to 15v DC power supply. The larger induction heater circuit uses a transformer to run on 120vac house wall current. Both units will run on a car battery but on the work bench I use 120vac to a transformer to get 15vdc up to 30vdc.
 
gary350 said:
The larger induction heater circuit uses a transformer to run on 120vac house wall current.
Which UL safety standard did you design that version to comply with?
 
berkeman said:
Which UL safety standard did you design that version to comply with?
The final version of the unit needs to be inside a protective case so you can't stick you finger in it and get shocked on 15vdc.
 
gary350 said:
The final version of the unit needs to be inside a protective case so you can't stick you finger in it and get shocked on 15vdc.
That's not what I asked. 15V is not a shock hazard.

Thread is closed temporarily for Moderation. Please send me a PM with your full schematic showing the AC Mains connections and tell me what construction details are important to make this personal project UL safety compliant. Thanks.
 

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